Keel cable replacement

[Cincy020]

I just purchased a 1985 Catalina 22 over the weekend. Everything is on sound condition, with the exception of knowing the condition of the swing keel cable. The po said he has never replaced the cable and has only sailed in fresh water. How highly advised is it that I change the cable?

If I do change, I was going to use the method of building the brace at the stern with the trailer lowered and jacking up the front. How sound and easy is this method? How much time does it take? Is it better to have the yard do it so it can be lifted off the trailer and changed?

Thanks for the help.

 

[watercolors II]

With the boat on the trailer you can inspect 95 percent of the cable from inside the cabin, the only part you can not see is whats in the volcano tube and the attachment to the keel.

With the keel resting on the trailer cranking the winch down will allow the cable to be pulled into the cabin for inspection, make sure you use gloves. If the bottom 4 or 5 feet of cable is good then the last foot that you can not see is also OK.

If the cable has broken wire segments stick out you will need to replace the cable and also, the turning ball/bearing just under the volcano tube.

You’re on the right track about getting to the top back end of the keel, you only need a couple inches of lift.

 

[VinMV1234]

I just purchased a 1985 Catalina 22 over the weekend...If I do change, I was going to use the method of building the brace at the stern with the trailer lowered and jacking up the front. How sound and easy is this method? How much time does it take? Is it better to have the yard do it so it can be lifted off the trailer and changed? .

Hi Cincy

I just picked up a c-22 1983 and had the same concern. It was on a trailer and when I lowered the keel, the cable did not look bad.

Nevertheless, I changed it. Also changed the winch (used the old winch to build my own mast step up system)

It took all of 45 minutes to do. The hardest part was getting the old hose off the volcano.

For me, it was worth the money to change at least the cable.

With my trailer, I was able to lower the keel enough to get the pin and cable off before it rest on the trailer cross frame.

 

[Cincy020]

Thanks for the answers. So tonight I tried to check it out. I built a frame out of 2x6's (doubled where the stern sits) and started cranking. I wasn't able to raise the stern at all, mostly because my trailer tongue jack looked like it was under too much stress. I don't know if I trust it. Has anyone tried using a floor jack under the tongue to get it up?

 

[VinMV1234]

Thanks for the answers. So tonight I tried to check it out. I built a frame out of 2x6's (doubled where the stern sits) and started cranking. I wasn't able to raise the stern at all, mostly because my trailer tongue jack looked like it was under too much stress. I don't know if I trust it. Has anyone tried using a floor jack under the tongue to get it up?

I am assuming you don't have boat stands? I'm also assuming the the keel is either resting on a trailer roller or simply does not lower enough to get to the cable pin.

I have never built a boat stand because I wouldn't trust it. If you have access to at least two stands for the stern, perhaps get the stands in place and put cinder blocks under the front of the trailer tongue to keep the front of the trailer up and the weight off the tongue jack.

Then once this is in place, take the air out of the trailer tires so the stern sits on the jacks. The rollers to the bow should pivot a little.

Once you get the keel up off the trailer, see if you can lower the keel enough. If not, if you can remove the rollers that the keel sits on.

 

[MaryEllaRose]

I dropped my keel to do the keel rebuild by raising the trailer and boat on jacks, building supports under the boat, then lowering the trailer. I built the 2x6 and 2x4 supports in place, once the trailer and boat were raised. I used auto jack stands to support the trailer and hydraulic bottle jacks to raise it.
The stern was supported by a bench like support that spanned the hull and supported it from the transom forward about 16 inches. Closed cell foam cushion the hull.
The bow was supported by a pedestal about 24" by 24" square built from 2x6s and 2x4s that was built in place between the trailer frame rails. Two bunks cushioned with closed cell foam supported it just forward of the keel pivots on either side.
I never removed the trailer, just lowered it and rolled it forward enough to lower the keel. The keel support kept it from flopping around while I replaced the pin, supports and cable and trailer bunks.
The pin hole in the keel was worn only about 0.05 to 0.08" so I left well enough alone and never bored it out to install the bushing. There's some play but it's much better than before especially with the shims installed on the front of the keel.

When I get home I'll post pictures. The boat is down on the trailer now but I still have the supports. Cost about $ 75 worth of lumber, bottle jacks were $25 at HF.
It was a little tedious, raising the rear, jacking it, raising the front, jacking it, then back to the rear again but it was rock solid even though my driveway has a slight pitch.
If I had to remove the keel, I think I could have slid it out the rear but that would have required helpers and some sort of a rolling frame to support it. As it was, I did the whole job, rebuilding the keel, replacing all the keel parts, keel support, cable, turning ball, volcano tube, keel winch, trailer bunks, trailer winch in four days by myself. That includes reinforcing the keel winch mounting with aluminum and oak supports. The hatch threshold was cracked from trailering with the keel raised.
The only problem I ran into was that I don't know how long the cable should be. I followed the instructions that came with the winch but it looks to me like I've got way more cable on the winch spool than is necessary, about four to five full turns when I think the keel will be fully lowered. Anyone know how long it should be?

Hopefully, by the time all that stuff wears out, it will time for a new boat.

 

[Cincy020]

Vin- nope on the boat stands. However, letting the air out of the tires is a thought to give me an extra few inches.

MarryElla- That frame sounds pretty close to what I did for mine, except I only did it at the stern. From the way it sounds, the auto jacks worked for you so I may try to do that at the tongue. Hopefully using the auto jack would be more sturdy and allow me to just get the stern up a few inches to drop the keel to inspect the cable. I planned on putting 2x6's between the boat and the bunks to help keep it stable, so it all sounds do-able.

Thanks!

 

[eastbayview]

The only problem I ran into was that I don't know how long the cable should be. I followed the instructions that came with the winch but it looks to me like I've got way more cable on the winch spool than is necessary, about four to five full turns when I think the keel will be fully lowered. Anyone know how long it should be?

Hopefully, by the time all that stuff wears out, it will time for a new boat.

I'm as green as can be with C22 issues, but I've read that the original keel winches have a small hub that the cable wraps around which causes more stress on the cable when it is wound on. (New winches have a larger center hub)
So if you have 4 or 5 extra wraps of cable on the hub perhaps it would be better the leave it than cut off the excess? Extra cable makes hub diameter larger, thus easier on the cable?

 

[VinMV1234]

Maybe I'm wrong but I bought the new winch and cable directly from Catalina Direct (CD)I didn't think anything about the cable length as I would have assumed the CD sent the properly sized cable. The specs for the cable, and winch, specifically read C22.

No instructions with the cable, the winch just illustrated how to attach the cable.

If you get the cable from CD, call it the right fit.

 

[eastbayview]

Maybe I'm wrong but I bought the new winch and cable directly from Catalina Direct (CD)I didn't think anything about the cable length as I would have assumed the CD sent the properly sized cable. The specs for the cable, and winch, specifically read C22.

No instructions with the cable, the winch just illustrated how to attach the cable.

If you get the cable from CD, call it the right fit.

That's what I will be doing as well. I have a new cable waiting to go in and wouldn't have thought twice about extra cable length. Don't have the new winch but perhaps in the future.