Keel cable replacement schedule

justsomeguy · Oct 19, 2016

Just keep an eye on it. The overwrap on the drum will deform the cable, so I'd try to lay that cable better.

justsomeguy · Oct 19, 2016

MaryEllaRose said:
Any suggestions on how to keep the cable from over lapping?

I'm not familiar with your system, but this winter, if you slacken the cable to the point where the overwraps are off, have a friend (with gloves) hold tension on the cable while you re-wrap the winch drum.
Once it's laid nicely on the drum, always maintain some tension on the cable.

Gene Neill · Oct 19, 2016

Mine laps and wraps all sorts of ways. Sometimes makes a terrifying noise when an overlap slips off. Doesn't seem to affect function.

CloudDiver · Oct 20, 2016

The overlap of the cable is a function of the winch drum alignment not being perpendicular to vertical path of the cable; In simpler terms, the companion way threshold/step is not molded level (this is so water will sheet away from the companion way and not into it), so when the winch is bolted to the underside the drum is kicked at an angle where the bottom of the drum is more forward than the top. The fix, and what might have been factory installed (or not), is a couple of thick washers under the forward edge of the winch frame but not around the 3/8 mounting bolts. The washers acts like a wedge under the front edge so as you tighten the mounting bolts the winch will hang level rather than matching the pitch of the companion way. This also keep the winch handle from hitting stuff at the top of its arc... I'll try to remember to snap some pics when I get home and add to this post.
FYI, my washers are pretty thick stainless 5/8 big 'uns, but in addition to those is a short length of stainless 1/8" thick x 1 inch wide stainless flat bar. My 'wedge' is about 1/4" overall thick. The result you want is that the face of the drum hangs parallel to the wire or as close as possible.

CloudDiver · Oct 20, 2016

I don't know why you'd need a new tube, but they are only $8 (I think). They are always curved because the stock is stored on a roll. The only way to sort that out is to soak it in really hot water or hit with a heat gun, preferably with a pipe on the inside to keep it straight as it cools. The curve wasn't an issue for me, I just rotated the tube on the bronze volcano until I got the best 'angle of attack'. You can take an inch or so off the top or bottom if needed, they come kinda long from CD. I don't why you used any sealant, the tube around the bronze tube secures water tight with two stainless clamps.
In any case... I'm not sure you understood my above post about the position of the winch. The tube is not the problem, its the angle of the winch drum relative to the cable (which will always pull straight under tension).

kclancy · Oct 24, 2016

CloudDiver said:
I don't know why you'd need a new tube, but they are only $8 (I think). They are always curved because the stock is stored on a roll. The only way to sort that out is to soak it in really hot water or hit with a heat gun, preferably with a pipe on the inside to keep it straight as it cools. The curve wasn't an issue for me, I just rotated the tube on the bronze volcano until I got the best 'angle of attack'. You can take an inch or so off the top or bottom if needed, they come kinda long from CD. I don't why you used any sealant, the tube around the bronze tube secures water tight with two stainless clamps.
In any case... I'm not sure you understood my above post about the position of the winch. The tube is not the problem, its the angle of the winch drum relative to the cable (which will always pull straight under tension).

I'm currently replacing my keel cable, ball, pin and tube. The Owner's Tech Manual (from the national organization) recommends applying 3M-4200 sealant when replacing the tube, along with using two SS clamps. Do you think that the sealant isn't necessary? It would sure make placing or future repairs easier if I didn't use the sealant.

I'm also interested in seeing the picture of your use of shims to even out the winch. I thought that something might be up when I saw how the cable wound itself around the drum. I was unsure why there was a need for the ball since it didn't seem to serve a function because of the keel cable angle.

CloudDiver · Oct 24, 2016

kclancy said:
I'm currently replacing my keel cable, ball, pin and tube. The Owner's Tech Manual (from the national organization) recommends applying 3M-4200 sealant when replacing the tube, along with using two SS clamps. Do you think that the sealant isn't necessary? It would sure make placing or future repairs easier if I didn't use the sealant.

I'm also interested in seeing the picture of your use of shims to even out the winch. I thought that something might be up when I saw how the cable wound itself around the drum. I was unsure why there was a need for the ball since it didn't seem to serve a function because of the keel cable angle.

No, I don't think the use of 4200 on that volcano tube is necessary or even a good idea. As you mentioned, when the boat is out of the water you should be able to easily loosen those hose clamps and pull the tube up to inspect the ball and cable... no messy adhesive to deal with.
Check out Stingy Sailor's website, he has an article about this subject. I'm 99.9% sure he uses no sealant either, just use quality hose clamps and make sure they are tightened properly. He hasn't had any leaks and neither has anyone else sans sealant on the volcano tube. BTW, you mentioned before cutting about an inch off the top of the volcano tube.... I did that and it helps to give you some clearance. The water line actually isn't very far above the keel cable turning ball, the tube is just long to account for heeling when sailing and Catalina Direct Cuts the sections a bit longer than required.
Also.... My boat was totally neglected for 4 years sitting in a slip. With no maintenance at all the volcano tube did not leak or rupture and sink the boat. No sealant, just the hose clamps.

CloudDiver · Oct 24, 2016

I will snap some pics of the shims I have under the edge of the winch when I get home and post here.

EditorC22NSA · Dec 31, 2016

I replace my swing keel cable every 5 years...regardless of condition. If I see a broken strand before the fifth year, then I replace it immediately. I also keep a spare, new cable in my tool box so that I don't have to wait to order the replacement cable from Catalina Direct. The steps to replace the cable are published in the November MainBrace at http://catalina22.org/index.php/current-issues-of-mainbrace. The article will be removed late on Sunday afternoon.

kclancy · Jan 1, 2017

MaryEllaRose said:
CloudDiver:

Please do post the pix... I know my winch is misaligned...the cable over wraps and makes a god-awful noise when dropping the keel. Aligning the winch is job #1 in the spring. I've reinforced the cabin step with oak and an aluminum 1/4"plate but still don't have the keel aligned correctly.

Thanx,
Tom G

Hey Tom, if you get a chance to post a pic of your reinforced cabin step, I'd appreciate it! I need to do the same. Did you have a metal shop fabricate the plate?

kclancy · Jan 2, 2017

Thanks Tom, that was all I needed and a huge help! Sweeeeeettt!

pclarksurf · Jan 2, 2017

@kclancy : not sure what state your step is in but mine was delaminated and essentially shot -- I cut it out completely and discovered that it was composed of nothing more than two layers of the same material as the deck ply.

I replaced the entire surface with a 1" solid piece of maple and countersunk the bold heads and buried them in an epoxy mix with colloidal silica.

kclancy · Jan 3, 2017

Wow pclarksurf, you did a nice job. Luckily for me, my step is in pretty good shape. My washers were looking like they were setting into the fiberglass skin. I'm installing a plate to give it some more support. Hard to believe that the existing step supported all the forces of raising and lowering the keel. Even after 40+ years!