Keel Bolt Socket

[BillyK]

Hi all!

I need to pull the nuts off the keelboats to clean up the rust and re-torque.. the issue i have is that the nuts are pretty far down the bolt to the point where a deep socket won't reach them.. anybody know where i can source a super duper deep socket for this?

Thanks.

 

[rbmcintire]

Hi Billy,
Try a big crescent wrench. I was surprised when doing mine that it looked a lot worse than it really was. Next up would have been a small pipe wrench to break the initial seal between bolt and nut. But before anything, I heartlily endorse spraying the crap out of the bolts with a product called PB Blaster. Another one I've used with superior results is, "Aerokroil". You could slip a pipe over the wrench's handle to increase the leverage, if necessary. Once the nut moves, go back to using the crescent wrench with additional lube spray. Using a small hammer and a 6" length of square stock metal to *tap* on the nut also aids the effort of releasing the nut from the bolt. Be patient, it will let go eventually.

Also, it just occurred to me that there are newer designed wrenches with a ratcheting "box" end. You'll be pulling/pushing the wrench handles in the bilge, but I think after you break the initial hold, you'll be OK. You could even lay a small piece of 2 x 4, on edge, against the bilge wall and pry the box wrench handle away from it (by using another tool to pry with) in the "loosey" direction.

Rob

 

[Stu Jackson]

Snap On tools makes an extra deep well socket.

 

[BillyK]

Hi Billy,
Try a big crescent wrench. I was surprised when doing mine that it looked a lot worse than it really was. Next up would have been a small pipe wrench to break the initial seal between bolt and nut. But before anything, I heartlily endorse spraying the crap out of the bolts with a product called PB Blaster. Another one I've used with superior results is, "Aerokroil". You could slip a pipe over the wrench's handle to increase the leverage, if necessary. Once the nut moves, go back to using the crescent wrench with additional lube spray. Using a small hammer and a 6" length of square stock metal to *tap* on the nut also aids the effort of releasing the nut from the bolt. Be patient, it will let go eventually.

Also, it just occurred to me that there are newer designed wrenches with a ratcheting "box" end. You'll be pulling/pushing the wrench handles in the bilge, but I think after you break the initial hold, you'll be OK. You could even lay a small piece of 2 x 4, on edge, against the bilge wall and pry the box wrench handle away from it (by using another tool to pry with) in the "loosey" direction.

Rob

Im able to get them off with a box wrench, but they need to be torqued down with a torque wrench when reinstalled.. thats the reason for the socket.. you're right, of the ones that i've removed, they looked a lot worse than they really were..

 

[rbmcintire]

I've read that using a crows foot attachement does not appreciably change the torque wrench length if you install it at 90deg. Take a tape measure from center of the hand grip to center of socket, check length of torque wrench. Compare that with the measure of the hand grip to center of crows foot opening. It should be close enough for our purpose.

Rob