The bolt that steadies the keel when its up fell out along with the nut that appeared to be glassed in on my '76 Catalina. It's above the water line, so the only time water comes in is when I'm on a starboard tack. I don't care about reinstalling a bolt, I just want to fill in the hole in the verticle wall that's abut the size of a dime. I have no experience with epoxy or resin or any of that kind of repair work. So can anyone give me an idea or 2 on the best way to repair my poor little boat with a hole in it? Thanks to all in advance. This is a great board! Stan
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Mike
Glass is easy to work with
I made the same repair to my '75 C22. I find it hard to believe that the "nut" fell out, since it is welded onto a stainless steel band about 12 inches long, and glassed into the trunk. I would make absolutely certain that the trunk isn't damaged more than you think before starting to patch the small hole. Next, get yourself a fiberglass repair kit at any auto repair store ( half the price of West Marine). Read and folow the directions. The most important step is sanding the area very well all around where you're going to make your repair. Clean it with acetone. Cut pieces of the fiberglass cloth in ever increasing dimensions so that you'll over lap each patch. You can apply 2-3 patches at a time. Then let it harden, and sand and clean with aceone before continuing. When you are finished, sand one last time to remove any sharp points of hardened cloth, and touch up with a little rust-oleum for asthetics, if you feel like doing the extra work, but not necessary. Good luck.
I made the same repair to my '75 C22. I find it hard to believe that the "nut" fell out, since it is welded onto a stainless steel band about 12 inches long, and glassed into the trunk. I would make absolutely certain that the trunk isn't damaged more than you think before starting to patch the small hole. Next, get yourself a fiberglass repair kit at any auto repair store ( half the price of West Marine). Read and folow the directions. The most important step is sanding the area very well all around where you're going to make your repair. Clean it with acetone. Cut pieces of the fiberglass cloth in ever increasing dimensions so that you'll over lap each patch. You can apply 2-3 patches at a time. Then let it harden, and sand and clean with aceone before continuing. When you are finished, sand one last time to remove any sharp points of hardened cloth, and touch up with a little rust-oleum for asthetics, if you feel like doing the extra work, but not necessary. Good luck.
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Uwe
the bolt
I just finished inspecting the bolts on my swing keel And I’m glad I did All four bolts were loose and deformed and ready to sheer off I recommend checking this item as often as possible The through pin was worn at the top almost half way through and ready to break This will have to be replaced The bushings looked fine, just dirty. One of the washers was worn out These items are the life line of your pride and joy and what makes your boat go. DO NOT EGNORE THEM Service them regularly The keel will be done this winter Thanks Uwe
I just finished inspecting the bolts on my swing keel And I’m glad I did All four bolts were loose and deformed and ready to sheer off I recommend checking this item as often as possible The through pin was worn at the top almost half way through and ready to break This will have to be replaced The bushings looked fine, just dirty. One of the washers was worn out These items are the life line of your pride and joy and what makes your boat go. DO NOT EGNORE THEM Service them regularly The keel will be done this winter Thanks Uwe
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Uwe
Lock down bolt
I’m not quite comfortable just epoxying over this part The lockdown pin is there to keep the keel from retracting into the boat on a hard tack or other maneuver If the keel retracts even a quarter of the way you WILL tip over and that’s it. The nut should not have come out I would inspect the area closely and replace the nut with the epoxy instructions posted and use the keel lock. I always go with safety first. Uwe
I’m not quite comfortable just epoxying over this part The lockdown pin is there to keep the keel from retracting into the boat on a hard tack or other maneuver If the keel retracts even a quarter of the way you WILL tip over and that’s it. The nut should not have come out I would inspect the area closely and replace the nut with the epoxy instructions posted and use the keel lock. I always go with safety first. Uwe
M
Mike
UWE
I felt the same way as you do. I phoned the Catalina Factory, and spoke to a 'technician ' about the torn out keel locking pin. The damage was caused by a previous owner, and half a$$ed repaired, when I bought the boat. This tech told me that the damage was caused by having the keel locked down, and running aground. He suggested just removing the locking pin completely. I am glad that I did, since the lake where I sail has some shallow area, and I've touched the keel to the bottom more than I'd like to admit to. If I had replaced the keel locking pin, I would most likely torn the trunk again.
I felt the same way as you do. I phoned the Catalina Factory, and spoke to a 'technician ' about the torn out keel locking pin. The damage was caused by a previous owner, and half a$$ed repaired, when I bought the boat. This tech told me that the damage was caused by having the keel locked down, and running aground. He suggested just removing the locking pin completely. I am glad that I did, since the lake where I sail has some shallow area, and I've touched the keel to the bottom more than I'd like to admit to. If I had replaced the keel locking pin, I would most likely torn the trunk again.
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Stan
Inspecting the keel
I appreciate the advice. How do you actually "inspect " the keel, bolts, etc.? Can you do this when its on the trailer, or do you have to have it hauled up to get a good look?
I appreciate the advice. How do you actually "inspect " the keel, bolts, etc.? Can you do this when its on the trailer, or do you have to have it hauled up to get a good look?
B
Bob B.
Keel locking bolt??
Hello Stan & all sailors with a swing keel: There are scads of information in the archieves regarding the keel locking bolt. It seems to me that the opinions to lock or not to lock the keel are even. I don't believe that a hard tack or any other maneuver will make the keel move towards the up position. There must be a lot of friction preventing this because of the sideways force due to water pressure on the keel. I never lock the keel bolt. I have been knocked down, sails flat in the water & the keel didn't move. This experience was due to my own ignorance at the time as the boat broached while running in a big wind. I don't know how strong the wind was, but foam was blowing horizontally off the wave tops. This will never happen to me again as once is too often!! Regards, Bob B.
Hello Stan & all sailors with a swing keel: There are scads of information in the archieves regarding the keel locking bolt. It seems to me that the opinions to lock or not to lock the keel are even. I don't believe that a hard tack or any other maneuver will make the keel move towards the up position. There must be a lot of friction preventing this because of the sideways force due to water pressure on the keel. I never lock the keel bolt. I have been knocked down, sails flat in the water & the keel didn't move. This experience was due to my own ignorance at the time as the boat broached while running in a big wind. I don't know how strong the wind was, but foam was blowing horizontally off the wave tops. This will never happen to me again as once is too often!! Regards, Bob B.
Fiberglass
Fiberglass is easy to work with, but hard to make look a job look good. Fortunately, no one will see the keel bolt repair. Be sure to sand and clean the repair area first...36 grit paper is good. The rougher the better. I would attempt to get a fiberglass repair kit that hasn't been on the shelf forever. Normally the kits at the paint stores or hardware stores, do not sit on the self like as long as at the auto part stores. You will need a couple paper plates and several cheap paint brushes; thoses that cost 40 cents (I like to use an 1.5" brush). Temperature is everything. Fiberglass is easier to work between 70 & 80 degrees. For your repair, I would pour about half the size of a golf ball amount of resin in my plate, and put about 5 to 10 drops of hardner...depending on temperature. Be ready to mix and apply quickly. After mixing, apply a coat of resin on the area to be repaired with your paint brush, then put a layer of cloth over it. Apply resign over the cloth using blotter motions...work the air bubbles out from under the cloth. After a few minutes, your brush will start getting stiff; this is okay; it makes it easier to work the glass. Three layers of glass mat is all you need. Once you start working you should be done in 10 minutes. It will not take long. Use acetone to clean up. Through the brush and plate in the trash. And, it is a great idea to wear rubber gloves. I like those cheap surgical gloves. Fiberglass repair kits are not expensive, and you will have plenty of resin and cloth to practice with, before you work on your boat. If you get some resign, that doesn't want to set-up (OLD), add more hardner, sometimes lots more hardner. Good luck, David
Fiberglass is easy to work with, but hard to make look a job look good. Fortunately, no one will see the keel bolt repair. Be sure to sand and clean the repair area first...36 grit paper is good. The rougher the better. I would attempt to get a fiberglass repair kit that hasn't been on the shelf forever. Normally the kits at the paint stores or hardware stores, do not sit on the self like as long as at the auto part stores. You will need a couple paper plates and several cheap paint brushes; thoses that cost 40 cents (I like to use an 1.5" brush). Temperature is everything. Fiberglass is easier to work between 70 & 80 degrees. For your repair, I would pour about half the size of a golf ball amount of resin in my plate, and put about 5 to 10 drops of hardner...depending on temperature. Be ready to mix and apply quickly. After mixing, apply a coat of resin on the area to be repaired with your paint brush, then put a layer of cloth over it. Apply resign over the cloth using blotter motions...work the air bubbles out from under the cloth. After a few minutes, your brush will start getting stiff; this is okay; it makes it easier to work the glass. Three layers of glass mat is all you need. Once you start working you should be done in 10 minutes. It will not take long. Use acetone to clean up. Through the brush and plate in the trash. And, it is a great idea to wear rubber gloves. I like those cheap surgical gloves. Fiberglass repair kits are not expensive, and you will have plenty of resin and cloth to practice with, before you work on your boat. If you get some resign, that doesn't want to set-up (OLD), add more hardner, sometimes lots more hardner. Good luck, David
Forgot Something
Living in Dry Country, I normally do not think about humidity. I think that is best to work fiberglass when the humidity is low. I do not think that it is good to work fiberglass on a wet rainy day. David
Living in Dry Country, I normally do not think about humidity. I think that is best to work fiberglass when the humidity is low. I do not think that it is good to work fiberglass on a wet rainy day. David
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Stan
David, Inspection of keel
David, how do actually inspect the keel and the bolts and the through pin? Can you do that while ir is on the Trailer, or does it need to be lifted. I'm new at this, so I appreciate any help.
David, how do actually inspect the keel and the bolts and the through pin? Can you do that while ir is on the Trailer, or does it need to be lifted. I'm new at this, so I appreciate any help.
Keel Bolts
Stan, I can do mine on the trailer. When I purchased my boat, I placed a floor jack under the front of my keel, removed all 4 keel bolts, and dropped my keel down far enough to remove the pivot blocks and pin for inspection. It was not difficult on my trailer. The keel cable needs to be loosened slightly to let the keel pivot down from the cable end, and the keel moved forward a little, so I had to force it back in place to reinstall the pivot blocks. I would replace the bolts and torque them to 22-25 ft/lbs. Also, I put anti-seeze on the bolts, and I make it a habit to check the torque on these bolts every couple of months. If the keel and pin is worn very much, you can see it without removing the keel. Just take a flashlight and look up the trunk. This is what I do when I am look at a boat for possible purchase. In any case put a jack under the keel, and replace the bolts or at least check the torque. Sometimes it is difficult to remove the bolts; stainless steel is terrible about galling; this is the reason I put anti-seeze on my bolts. David
Stan, I can do mine on the trailer. When I purchased my boat, I placed a floor jack under the front of my keel, removed all 4 keel bolts, and dropped my keel down far enough to remove the pivot blocks and pin for inspection. It was not difficult on my trailer. The keel cable needs to be loosened slightly to let the keel pivot down from the cable end, and the keel moved forward a little, so I had to force it back in place to reinstall the pivot blocks. I would replace the bolts and torque them to 22-25 ft/lbs. Also, I put anti-seeze on the bolts, and I make it a habit to check the torque on these bolts every couple of months. If the keel and pin is worn very much, you can see it without removing the keel. Just take a flashlight and look up the trunk. This is what I do when I am look at a boat for possible purchase. In any case put a jack under the keel, and replace the bolts or at least check the torque. Sometimes it is difficult to remove the bolts; stainless steel is terrible about galling; this is the reason I put anti-seeze on my bolts. David
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Stan
Are the keel bolts up in the trunk?
David, thanks. How do you get to the keel bolts? Are they up inside the trunk?
David, thanks. How do you get to the keel bolts? Are they up inside the trunk?
Keel Bolts
Stan, The keel bolts are flush with the bottom...recessed in the pivot blocks. The pin is up in the trunk an inch or so. You can see it where it goes through the keel. Look for an enlongated keel hole and wear on the pin. David
Stan, The keel bolts are flush with the bottom...recessed in the pivot blocks. The pin is up in the trunk an inch or so. You can see it where it goes through the keel. Look for an enlongated keel hole and wear on the pin. David
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Stan
Thanks David, How long is too long?
David, thanks, I actually found a picture showing the bolt locations. On an old'76, I would expect some wear from the pin in the pivot hole. My question is how much wear is aceptable (less than an inch or so) before I need to cash in my IRA to pay for a repair?
David, thanks, I actually found a picture showing the bolt locations. On an old'76, I would expect some wear from the pin in the pivot hole. My question is how much wear is aceptable (less than an inch or so) before I need to cash in my IRA to pay for a repair?
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