78' H30 owner and looking for any input. Skeg bolts need replacing for sure. Keel bolts look good, read that i should drop the keel and inspect.
keel and skeg separating from hull
- Thread starter Mcksailor
- Start date
- Status
Hi Mcksailor, welcome to the forums. Based on both your pictures, I would plan on dropping both the skeg and the keel for inspection. The skeg is bolted from the inside with 3 or 4 square head bolts. At least my skeg is. I would also plan on inspecting the keel bolts and reseal. That is my plan for my 75 H30 this spring.
I would also take a goog look at the Y strut. From the picture it looks a little pink. Mine was and it broke in two.
Let us know what you plan on doing.
I would also take a goog look at the Y strut. From the picture it looks a little pink. Mine was and it broke in two.
Let us know what you plan on doing.
When you remove the skeg, remember you need about two feet of clearance for the rudder to be removed.
Also, check the archives for the strut replacement. The original mfg company (Hunter bought the strut from a supplier) went out of business. If I remember, there is a new company that makes direct replacements.
Also, check the archives for the strut replacement. The original mfg company (Hunter bought the strut from a supplier) went out of business. If I remember, there is a new company that makes direct replacements.
I had to replace my skeg on my '76 30 about 5 years ago when I knocked into a rock and tore off the lower end of it that holds the lower rudder bearing. When I was taking the old skeg off, most of the threaded (I think they were machine threaded) anchors that are sunk/glassed into the upper diagonal surface of the skeg spun. Since I was putting on a whole new skeg (Hunter made it for about $650 if I remember correctly) I didn't have to be cautious about not destroying the skeg. Good thing because I had to mangle into the side of it to get a hold of the anchors while I unscrewed the bolts. Not saying it's impossible to replace those bolts and reuse the existing skeg, but if my experience is a guide - it will be challenging.
Maybe take a die grinder to the heads inside, drop the skeg and very gingerly get what's left of the bolts out with penetrating oil, a tiny pipe wrench or drill and easy out?
And I don't even remember how they sent the new skeg- whether it came with correctly spotted threaded anchors or I used lags or what. If I had to guess, I think I used lags into just a flat surface that I marked and pilot drilled. Good luck.
PS The new skeg did not come drilled for or with a new lower rudder bearing. I do remember that because my daughter was on me to get the boat launched in time for her visit. I'm in only fresh water but still regret having to use a plain brass farm gate bearing. I think you'd have to get a bronze or stainless one machined special for salt water use because I couldn't find a pre made one available at the biggest local marina shop or even with a little web searching.
Maybe take a die grinder to the heads inside, drop the skeg and very gingerly get what's left of the bolts out with penetrating oil, a tiny pipe wrench or drill and easy out?
And I don't even remember how they sent the new skeg- whether it came with correctly spotted threaded anchors or I used lags or what. If I had to guess, I think I used lags into just a flat surface that I marked and pilot drilled. Good luck.
PS The new skeg did not come drilled for or with a new lower rudder bearing. I do remember that because my daughter was on me to get the boat launched in time for her visit. I'm in only fresh water but still regret having to use a plain brass farm gate bearing. I think you'd have to get a bronze or stainless one machined special for salt water use because I couldn't find a pre made one available at the biggest local marina shop or even with a little web searching.
Thank you for strut info. Cutlass bearing needs replaced and engine shakes more than should, related? Skeg needs work and rudder replaced or reglassed. Thank you for rudder bearing warning. Keel bolts are good able to loosen and tighten, need to lower keel and fill possible voids and than 5200 to really seal the connection?.
I can tell you that the one lung Yanmar shook more than we liked when we first started in 1976, I don't know how bad yours is but a pretty good vibration is a feature of the motor if you have the original YSE motor. Sounds like an ambitious plan for the keel. There is no core to get weak and wet down there I don't think. Those are some very large bolts and washers to have to fail.. Mines got a tiny seep leak that turns the pump on about twice a week. It's an old boat. But I understand your desire for the dry bilge.
Dropping, checking the bolts, and resealing the keel is more than trying to get a dry bilge, at least for me. I am concerned about the integrity of the bolts, concerned they may fail due to crevice corrosion. Maybe I have an over active imagination, but I would hate for the keel to become compromised and not know it and correct it. On a 35+ year old boat it is probably due. Mcksailor may have another reason.
Being 34 years old I figure it needs resealing and a checkout. Bolts look good in bilge, no idea what shape they look like going into keel. Know the previous owner and how carefree he was, so dropping and inspecting is more for peace of mind.
- Status