I tried to remove the tank in parts as suggested, but proved to be very difficult. The tank would not move enough to cut. I did completely cut out the forward part of the tank but it would not budge. Eventually I went back to my original plan and cut out the shower seat. This was the best move I made. I found that the tank was held in place with a 1" wide steel strap. With the strap remove I was able to slide the tank forward enough to cut it in half and fold it neatly to remove the the "V" berth.
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Ed Schenck
Keep us posted Rick.
Sure like to know the rest of the steps, in detail. New tank? Where? Shower seat repair and result, etc.
Sure like to know the rest of the steps, in detail. New tank? Where? Shower seat repair and result, etc.
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Been There
John, I only have friends who did it
Replacing tanks is a fact of life for those who own boats fifteen or twenty years old. I have never done this on the H37C. But I have seen where this tank lives, and heard from friends that replacing it is a royal pain. On my current boat, I am lucky that most tanks are accessible by unscrewing plywood. Of course, this cost a bit more to build. I hope Hunter is making progress on figuring out how to make more of the boat accessible, while keeping costs down. Maybe it isn't a big priority for Hunter. Those of us who own old boats think about this. Those who buy new boats don't worry about it. For what it is worth, I think the H37C is a really neat design.
Replacing tanks is a fact of life for those who own boats fifteen or twenty years old. I have never done this on the H37C. But I have seen where this tank lives, and heard from friends that replacing it is a royal pain. On my current boat, I am lucky that most tanks are accessible by unscrewing plywood. Of course, this cost a bit more to build. I hope Hunter is making progress on figuring out how to make more of the boat accessible, while keeping costs down. Maybe it isn't a big priority for Hunter. Those of us who own old boats think about this. Those who buy new boats don't worry about it. For what it is worth, I think the H37C is a really neat design.
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Tom Hadoulias
Interesting!
Rick, I have not seen a strap on the holding tanks of the three 37C's I am familiar with that have had holding tanks replaced. I've done mine and assisted another. Sorry you had to go through the additional trouble of the shower seat removal. I can only hope that all boat manufacture's delete the use of aluminum for holding tanks in the future. Believe it or not, some still use aluminum when plastic is readily available. Good luck on the remainder of the project! Tom
Rick, I have not seen a strap on the holding tanks of the three 37C's I am familiar with that have had holding tanks replaced. I've done mine and assisted another. Sorry you had to go through the additional trouble of the shower seat removal. I can only hope that all boat manufacture's delete the use of aluminum for holding tanks in the future. Believe it or not, some still use aluminum when plastic is readily available. Good luck on the remainder of the project! Tom
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Edward Kennedy
The continuing tank story
When I removed my tank, there were no straps holding it in place. After the tabbing in the v-berth was removed, the tank was loose. It had to be cut and folded together to slide it out, though. Also, in preperation for installing a new tank, I have removed the side of the v-berth. An abrasive cutting wheel on a drill worked the best. This gives lots of access to work on installing the tank. An interesting discovery, There is a very large closed in area under the raised portion of the cabin sole. I'm thinking of putting an access panel to open it up for storage. As far as my plans for a new tank in the original location, I talked to Ronco, and they would require me to pay for the creation of a mold, (probably approx. $500) but after that the tank would be cheap. This would only work if there are several of you who want to help split the cost of a mold. (e-mail me at edkennedy@netzero.net). The other alternative is to have a tank made of heat welded flat pieces of polyethlene. Ronco won't make these, but they told me that this would probably cost approx $250. If anybody knows a supplier of welded polyethlene tanks, please respond or e-mail me. Well, thanks for reading this long response. I'm taking a break from this project for the holidays, but I will tell more next year.
When I removed my tank, there were no straps holding it in place. After the tabbing in the v-berth was removed, the tank was loose. It had to be cut and folded together to slide it out, though. Also, in preperation for installing a new tank, I have removed the side of the v-berth. An abrasive cutting wheel on a drill worked the best. This gives lots of access to work on installing the tank. An interesting discovery, There is a very large closed in area under the raised portion of the cabin sole. I'm thinking of putting an access panel to open it up for storage. As far as my plans for a new tank in the original location, I talked to Ronco, and they would require me to pay for the creation of a mold, (probably approx. $500) but after that the tank would be cheap. This would only work if there are several of you who want to help split the cost of a mold. (e-mail me at edkennedy@netzero.net). The other alternative is to have a tank made of heat welded flat pieces of polyethlene. Ronco won't make these, but they told me that this would probably cost approx $250. If anybody knows a supplier of welded polyethlene tanks, please respond or e-mail me. Well, thanks for reading this long response. I'm taking a break from this project for the holidays, but I will tell more next year.
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Rick Harvey
Tank Replacement
I have not selected a tank as yet. However my company uses electro polished 316 S/S tanks for chemicals. I think we probably have 2 or 3 spares that have no use. They are 10/12 gallon tanks and real heavy guage. I could fit one in the V Berth and use the space under the shower seat for storage. I cut the seat on the top at the seams and 1" down at the front. Just add a hinge and a seal and it would work real well. The wind is blowing hard in MA today, so I will check on the cover tomorrow and maybe take the Digital camera.
I have not selected a tank as yet. However my company uses electro polished 316 S/S tanks for chemicals. I think we probably have 2 or 3 spares that have no use. They are 10/12 gallon tanks and real heavy guage. I could fit one in the V Berth and use the space under the shower seat for storage. I cut the seat on the top at the seams and 1" down at the front. Just add a hinge and a seal and it would work real well. The wind is blowing hard in MA today, so I will check on the cover tomorrow and maybe take the Digital camera.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Don't use metal, Rick
Not all chemicals are corrosive, so just because your company uses stainless for chemicals doesn't make it suitable for sewage holding. However, urine IS corrosive--far more so than even salt.. So corrosive, in fact, that it typically eats through welds at seams or fitting within 2-5 years, and will turn even stainless sheet metal into a collander within 10. Use stainless for water holding if you like, but thick-walled polyethylene is the ONLY material that should be used for sewage holding.
Not all chemicals are corrosive, so just because your company uses stainless for chemicals doesn't make it suitable for sewage holding. However, urine IS corrosive--far more so than even salt.. So corrosive, in fact, that it typically eats through welds at seams or fitting within 2-5 years, and will turn even stainless sheet metal into a collander within 10. Use stainless for water holding if you like, but thick-walled polyethylene is the ONLY material that should be used for sewage holding.
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Jerry Jabes
Peggy, I used fiberglass...
I replaced mine about 3 months ago. Jefferson Fiberglass, New Orleans, made me a custom tank from a model I made out of signboard. It is 1/4" thick and seems to be doing great so far. It cost $200, which was not as expensive as the plastics I checked out. Oh! I was told by a local plastics place that there is no glue invented yet that will join pieces for an application of this type.
I replaced mine about 3 months ago. Jefferson Fiberglass, New Orleans, made me a custom tank from a model I made out of signboard. It is 1/4" thick and seems to be doing great so far. It cost $200, which was not as expensive as the plastics I checked out. Oh! I was told by a local plastics place that there is no glue invented yet that will join pieces for an application of this type.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Jerry, welded poly tanks aren't "glued"
Your information is correct: there is no "glue" or sealant that will permanently bond to polyethylene. Pieces are joined by a process called heat welding...a considerable amount of the edges of the two pieces are melted, additional melted poly is added, and it all runs together to make continuous poly. Fittings in rotationally molded tanks are installed using a similar method called "spin welding"...the spin welding tool is kinda like hot glue gun that also uses friction heat to melt the edges of the hole and the fitting. Welded tanks aren't as strong as roto molded tanks, but strong enough if the welding is done right.
Your information is correct: there is no "glue" or sealant that will permanently bond to polyethylene. Pieces are joined by a process called heat welding...a considerable amount of the edges of the two pieces are melted, additional melted poly is added, and it all runs together to make continuous poly. Fittings in rotationally molded tanks are installed using a similar method called "spin welding"...the spin welding tool is kinda like hot glue gun that also uses friction heat to melt the edges of the hole and the fitting. Welded tanks aren't as strong as roto molded tanks, but strong enough if the welding is done right.
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