Just hauled for winter, lots of projects...

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Mar 29, 2008
187
s2 9.2C NJ
Hauled out today. I will replace or sister a new port main shroud bulkhead (fixed with git rot but not thrilled with results). We just bought an Origo 6000 to replace our 2 burner stove so I need to remodel our galley to fit it and (somehow) a microwave. Port side deconstruction will begin shortly! I'd also like to add more insulation to our refrigerator while I'm in there.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
The previous owner fixed both bulkheads on my boat. Take your time, use good materials and think things out and you will do fine. I can send you a link to the photo log he took if you like. The 9.2A bulkheads are a pretty easy fix because there are smaller pieces of marine plywood sistered fore and aft from the factory.
 
Mar 29, 2008
187
s2 9.2C NJ
That's great. I'd love to see the link. I hope to cut this Saturday. I'll send you my email via private msg.
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
I emailed a link to the kodakgallery site which has the photos. They are not in order. Both the port and starboard bulkheads were repaired. The starboard repair was a simple replacement of the aft backer that was sistered to the bulkhead at the factory. The port side was much more involved. The rot was into the main bulkhead. He removed the backer, cut out the rotted section of main bulkhead, cleaned up the back of the forward backer, coated it with epoxy to seal it, tabbed in a replacement piece of marine plywood into the main bulkhead, then replaced the backer with a new piece of marine plywood and tabbed it into place. Note that the 24 oz. woven roving used is critical to the strength of the completed tabbing. The previous owner is a nice guy and said the job was easier than expected. I could try to put you in touch with him, if you like.
 
Mar 29, 2008
187
s2 9.2C NJ
Thanks for the pics. I just started mine today. This spring I used Git rot in the bulkhead but it was really rotten and it still bothered me. After I removed all the teak trim in the area, I cut the ceiling (inside) to open up about a 10" area of wet core around the middle chainplate. I sawzalled about 10" of the middle bulkhead then cut a 3" deep notch down into the good wood. Into that went 1/2 ply with a layer of 1/2 on each side all epoxied together. It's like a mortise and tenon joint now. When I go back on Tuesday I will tab it all to the hull with roving, then cover the whole repaired area with roving to make it bulletproof. I was dreading this but it went very quickly and I could wrap it up with a total of two days worth of work. Once the fabric is replaced it will all be invisible and I can rap on the new bulkhead and hear that great, solid sound!
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Congratulations. Sounds like you have things under control. Luckily the sandwich design of the bulkhead used by S2 is a good one. It provides a sacrificial smaller piece that is easily replaced if the leak is tackled early, avoiding the need to fix the main bulkhead, which is trickier. However, the design still allows your to repair the main bulkhead with good cosmetic results, as the smaller piece will hide the repair. This is a lesson for all S2 owners with a similar set up. It pays to tackle the job earlier rather than later. It also pays to keep your chain plates maintained, a job that I plan to tackle ASAP, since my bulk heads were repaired by the previous owner, but I don't trust that he re-bedded the chain plates properly and I know that he didn't do them all. I am running out of time up north though. Life has been complicated lately with a 5 week bout of flu and pneumonia followed up by the passing of my Father last week.

BobM
 
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