Just bought a new rudder and tiller for my 170. Varnish recs?
- Thread starter rsmithfh
- Start date
An absolute piece of art.
If it were mine, I would preserve it forever such as these stairs which have been in use for years :
These were covered with a light layer of cloth and then five coats of System Three Silver Tip clear Epoxy. Topped with several coats of varnish for UV protection. A quicker method would be to skip the cloth and use only the epoxy and varnish. Not as good as using cloth but if you're committed to using it this summer, maybe the way to go. Also far better than varnish.
These transom seat, teak strips were treated only with epoxy and varnish but do not receive any physical abuse.
If you're into FG work, worth the investment of time.
If it were mine, I would preserve it forever such as these stairs which have been in use for years :
These were covered with a light layer of cloth and then five coats of System Three Silver Tip clear Epoxy. Topped with several coats of varnish for UV protection. A quicker method would be to skip the cloth and use only the epoxy and varnish. Not as good as using cloth but if you're committed to using it this summer, maybe the way to go. Also far better than varnish.
These transom seat, teak strips were treated only with epoxy and varnish but do not receive any physical abuse.
If you're into FG work, worth the investment of time.
Just good 'ol varnish. Epiphanes or whatever else suits your fancy. Half a dozen coats or so. Make sure you keep a Sunbrella cover on it when not in use.
That said, probably the worst finish for wood that's kept outside is a clear finish. Like varnish. I won't own a boat that has wood on the outside, because I don't want to be a slave to it. I've been know to paint my tillers a nice off white to complement the deck's gelcoat. A coat of primer and a couple coats of good house paint.
That said, probably the worst finish for wood that's kept outside is a clear finish. Like varnish. I won't own a boat that has wood on the outside, because I don't want to be a slave to it. I've been know to paint my tillers a nice off white to complement the deck's gelcoat. A coat of primer and a couple coats of good house paint.
Beautiful tiller. Spar varnish, Try to avoid applying when it's too hold or cold or in high humidity. Wet sand between coats. As many as you have patience to lay down. Protect with a Sunbrella.
If I had kept my 170 this is the kind of tiller I would have eventually added. Nice rudder too!
If I had kept my 170 this is the kind of tiller I would have eventually added. Nice rudder too!
I recognize the handiwork of Rudder Craft. I had to replace my Hunter 18 rudder and also bought from them. Great company to work with and very customer oriented. I did however let them finish the tiller and had them set it up with gudgeons instead of pintles duplicating the original setup and use of stainless connecting pin. Given the similarities between the 170 and the 18 I thought you might appreciate my comments back to them after sailing it a bit:
I've had the boat with new rudder in some 20+ mph wind sailing under reefed main only and again in 8 - 10. Some initial observations:
The new setup is heavier than the old and a bit ungainly to install but I always remove the rudder with tiller after each use to protect the tiller finish as well as theft prevention. If you also have similar tiller angle challenges, I can send you the pics of simple lift bracket fix I added.
I've had the boat with new rudder in some 20+ mph wind sailing under reefed main only and again in 8 - 10. Some initial observations:
- Love the rudder lift mechanism, and tiller looks great!
- Rudder feels solid and balanced
- However, the tiller angle puts the end too low, hitting the gunnel. The fix was to effectively raise the stop tab contact surface 3/16" with a kluged starboard add on lift bracket (see pics).
- Excellent foil shape except I did notice pronounced rudder hum first time out in heavy air both up and down wind starting around 5-6 mph hull speed.
- Looks like the trailing edge was trimmed on a band saw and although probably sanded after, there were some irregularities left
- Edge was squared off (good) but left too thick at about 1/4 inch
- After taking the edge thickness down to about an 1/8 cut at an approx 20 deg bevel, trimming the irregularities, and finish sanding to 320 that seems to have fixed the problem.
- The gudgeon set up and dimensioning turned out well. The original rudder pin with retainer ring removed needs to be inserted into the rudder from the bottom due to clearance issues with the head. However, this works out well as the pin is then captured once the retainer ring is reinstalled and you simply lift the pin up all the way up, set the rudder top gudgeon on the boat's bracket than push the pin thru the bottom gudgeon and plate hole, then reinsert the pin's retaining cotter pin. Easier than the original setup and rudder is captive on the bracket.
The new setup is heavier than the old and a bit ungainly to install but I always remove the rudder with tiller after each use to protect the tiller finish as well as theft prevention. If you also have similar tiller angle challenges, I can send you the pics of simple lift bracket fix I added.