What are the advantages of relocating the jib sheet tracks inboard? All I've been able to find is that its optimal for racing. Also, what it the best easy to locate the blocks on the tracks (fore/aft) for each headsail size (110, 135, 150)?
Jib sheet track
- Thread starter Slow Mo^cean
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It enables you to point higher because you get a tighter sheeting angle. The position of the block or lead for each sail is different. The easiest way to tell what the basic proper location is, is to sheet the sail in tight and head the boat slowly into the wind. Your goal is to have the block in the location that lets the leading edge of your sail (the luff) break all at the same time. If the lead is too far forward, then the bottom will break first and if the lead is too far aft, then the top will break first. If you have it in the correct position, then the entire luff will break at the same time. Therefore, you have to have track long enough to accommodate all of the headsail inventory that you have. Smaller jibs might have the lead in front of the side stays while the larger genoas will have leads way aft.
Before you start spending money and drilling holes.. I suggest you rig a barber-hauler to see if your inside track will be a worthwhile improvement.
And if it does seem to help in strong, upwind conditions........ don't relocate the genoa track... leave it where it is and simply add the inside track.... leaving you with more options.
I have a short inside track for my racing sail.... but find it's easier to barber haul if I want to reduce the sheeting angle for certain conditions.
The easiest way to set the fore/aft jib lead position is to watch your telltales when you luff up.... if the bottom breaks first... move the lead back ... "bottom-back".... and vice versa. If the pin holes are numbered you can note the settings for each sail in your trim guide.
There are times when you don't want them to break evenly.... To Depower... to put more twist in the headsail, i.e. opening the leech... move the lead back. This tensions the foot more than the leech. To Power UP.... move the lead forward.... closing the leech by applying more tension, while the foot becomes fuller with the tension eased.. kind of like outhaul on the main.
And if it does seem to help in strong, upwind conditions........ don't relocate the genoa track... leave it where it is and simply add the inside track.... leaving you with more options.
I have a short inside track for my racing sail.... but find it's easier to barber haul if I want to reduce the sheeting angle for certain conditions.
The easiest way to set the fore/aft jib lead position is to watch your telltales when you luff up.... if the bottom breaks first... move the lead back ... "bottom-back".... and vice versa. If the pin holes are numbered you can note the settings for each sail in your trim guide.
There are times when you don't want them to break evenly.... To Depower... to put more twist in the headsail, i.e. opening the leech... move the lead back. This tensions the foot more than the leech. To Power UP.... move the lead forward.... closing the leech by applying more tension, while the foot becomes fuller with the tension eased.. kind of like outhaul on the main.
The advantages have been stated. Basically it's to help your boat point better/faster when close hauled into the wind. This is especially helpful when you can control the draft of the mainsail (with a good outhaul setup)because if that's too deep/baggy the the tighter jib sheet location will only cause the redirected wind to blow into the area behind the mainsail luff and stall out that sail's value.
As an experiment in light to moderate winds, before you move the jib track inboard, attach a second line to your jib's clew and pull it towards the center of the cockpit floor a bit. This would move the location of the jib clew more inboard but also more back and down.
When sailing at other points such as reaching, it may not be advantageous at all because you may want your foresail clew further outboard. So, if you are a racer, you may actually want more than one Jib track setup.
Generally locate the block more towards the stern for the bigger sails.
I've seen the barber-hauler mod, but is this more of a temporary fix, or can it be used permanently?
What I was suggesting was to try something in that way as a "temp fix."
Something are more important to racers. Some racers remove their lifelines if equipped as they are in the way of the foresail rigging.
Yea, I removed the life lines and forward stanchions as they are more of a trip hazard to me (but kept the rear one and have a lifeline running from it to the stern pulpit). I have yet to race this boat, and honestly don't plan on racing much (yet). Maybe a regatta or two with the family, but more just for fun than to win. However I have a bit of self-competitiveness, and I'll always want to do what I can to go faster.
You can make it whatever you want.....Many race boats are permanently rigged with barber haulers.... it is very, very common... and is much easier than re running the sheets ..... I think it's easier to barber haul inboard, since most of your sailing you'll want to use the outside position.
For instance, when reaching or running.... you want the leads as far out as possible. In light air, a close sheeting angle upwind will be very slow.
Try googling "barber hauler" and you'll see what I mean.
You need to understand what sheeting angles are. The cut of your sails will determine a lot about what the best sheeting angles are for your boat.... do some research. Read "The Art and Science of Sails" by Tom Whidden.Don't start tearing up your boat just because someone told you to move the track to an inside position. It's totally unnecessary. And even if you do feel you need an inside track... don't tear out the old one.... that's just not very smart... better to have both...
Do you have cabin top winches? A temporary barber hauler can be quickly rigged by tying a bowline around the loaded sheet with a spare line, then wrap that line around the winch and use it to pull the clew inboard.... mark a spot on the deck vertically beneath the clew while you're barber hauling.... then measure the angle between the boat's centerline, and a line drawn from the spot to the stemhead....... Do the same with your outside lead position.
These are your sheeting angles.... do some testing in different conditions to see what works best with each sail....
Find the race setup/trim guide for your boat..... usually available at sailmaker sites, such as North Sails. Cat 22 are very popular race boats... you shouldn't have any problem finding this info.... The C22 owner's site will have a lot of this info also....
See....... do the research.... the info is available if you're serious.... but you won't get a one paragraph answer... no way.
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