Jib Sheet Technique

capejt · Apr 13, 2014

When you've had enough backwinding, release the sheet, and put it out of your mind. Shift your concentration to the new new leeward sheet and, with one wrap on the winch, pull it in manually until you NEED the winch. Put another wrap on the winch and then start cranking. It sounds like you're trying to go inch by inch, let the wind do all the work it can for you.
Actually, unless you're tacking in high seas, you really shouldn't have to backwind at all.
Watch the dinghy sailors in your area and you'll see what I mean. That's how I learned... on a high performance dinghy

Joe · Apr 13, 2014

lehigh375 said:
Didn't want to hijack the thread about jib knots so I am starting this.

I think I am missing something in the proper technique of jib management during a turn.

I understand that you should backwind the sail and let it help turn the bow thru the wind. However, doesn't this leave the sheet with a lot of tension on it after the turn?

Release the jib as soon as the MAINSAIL swings across... You're letting the jib do ALL the work... once the main is across it will help finish the turn. IOW you're waiting too long to release the headsail. Also.. make sure the old sheet is un cleated and the tail is in a tidy pile so it can run freely. When casting off, pull the tail directly upward to pull the wraps off the drum quickly.

When this is released, the sail flies to leeward and the sheet runs quick enough to cause a rope burn. Then you got to winch it in with the sail flapping. Hope I have described this correctly.

Again, your timing is the culprit... but you can cheat the new sheet in a bit.. taking out the slack as the wind pushes the sail through as long as you don't pull on the sail until it is clear. You should be able to strip the slack out by hand... with the sheet wrapped three or four times on the winch drum. Watch the sheet's tail angle to prevent overrides. Here is where the boat driver can help by slowing down the turn enough to allow the trimmer to get the slack in before sail gets outside the shrouds.

What we have been doing is releasing the windward sheet when we go thru the wind and snug it in while completing the turn. Is everyone saying this is a rookie error?

Please clarify. Thanks.

Yes....... your crew must work together. The helmsman must control the turn to allow the new side trimmer time to pull in the slack as the sail comes through the fore triangle. The old side trimmer must time the release for the sail passing through the eye of the wind. He can use the mainsail as an indicator. The important point for him to remember is that his job is to help the boat through the first half of the turn so the main can help on the second half.

shemandr · Apr 13, 2014

Rope burn? No. Not if you've released the new lazy sheet. The release is more active than just letting it go. You should actually cast it off so there is no resistance to impede the sail from crossing.
The new jib trimmer is the one handling line and it is a hand over hand, elbows flying, eyes taught on the line drill to get the jib in as it crosses the wind and before it has a lot of pressure in it. Obviously it's more difficult as the jibs get bigger. That's why I like the fractional rigs.
The helmsman can help a lot too. It isn't always best to turn through the wind as fast as possible. For one thing that much rudder will slow the boat excessively. The helmsman should carve the turn as a good skier does without applying too much edge causing him to slow down. And it isn't slow to go through the wind a bit more slow if the trimmer needs a little time to reel in the slack. The goal is to get out of the tack with as much boat speed as possible and not need too much time to get the jib drawing. If the jib trimmer is cranking for 15 to 30 seconds, it isn't a fast tack. Just my opinion.

Stu Jackson · Apr 13, 2014

1. ...with the sheet wrapped three or four times on the winch drum.
2 Watch the sheet's tail angle to prevent overrides.

1 causes 2.

Two wraps, three if it is very windy should be more than enough. Anything more will almost assure overrides.

shemandr · Apr 13, 2014

Wraps are like martinis. Two is good, three if necessary, four too much.

Joe · Apr 13, 2014

Stu Jackson said:
1. ...with the sheet wrapped three or four times on the winch drum.
2 Watch the sheet's tail angle to prevent overrides.

1 causes 2.

Two wraps, three if it is very windy should be more than enough. Anything more will almost assure overrides.

You can over ride with two if the angle of the sheet is below the top wrap. On a Cat 27 the winch's coaming is canted outboard... which can be pretty exciting if you're not paying attention. I will agree that 4 is normally unnecessary, but it won't override if you stay aware of the line's angle.

Scott T-Bird · Apr 13, 2014

Once you are thru the wind, the helmsman can help by not continuing to turn too far downwind. Overturning will scrub speed in the desired direction and will create unnecessary work for the jib trimmer (he has to use the winch when sheeting in by hand is easier.

If you are getting rope burns from the jib sheet when backwinded, you are definitely backwinding way more than necessary. Multi-hulls have trouble turning thru the wind, but momentum normally does all the work on a monohull sailboat.

If the trimmer and the helmsman get the timing down right, there should be little need for the winch at all. Sheeting in by hand (with a wrap around the winch) can easily accomplish 95% of the work, where the winch is only necessary for the fine tuning.

inarathree · Apr 14, 2014

The only time you should need to back wind is in heavy seas or when sailing a catamaran. I solo sail all the time, and do what Joe is recommending. "Pre-set" your leeward jib sheets to take out the slack. Let go the windward jib sheets as soon as your mainsail crosses over. Then trim the new working jib sheet. I have used this on every boat I have solo sailed up to 40'. When i have a crew (usually my teenaged daughter), its pretty much the same deal, but she works the jib sheets. She presets the leeward sheet, lets the working sheet go, and trims the new working sheet. The only difference it the speed at which all gets trimmed up.

IH82BL8 · Apr 14, 2014

Two wraps, three if it is very windy should be more than enough. Anything more will almost assure overrides.

Back in the day when I was doing some racing I used three wraps to ease the amount of tension I had to keep on the jibsheet. Then I would take off one of the wraps at "ready about". This helped prevent overrides.

Claygr · Apr 14, 2014

Backwinding the jib slows the boat and makes the trimmer's job more difficult. We release the working sheet just when the jib curves inward unless we have a lot of chop that we're steering through, in which case we will allow it to backwind more. I always have to remember to steer slowly through the tack and time the turn to match the speed with which the sail comes through the eye of the wind. That gives my trimmer time to get the sail trimmed in not under load. We learn on smaller boats that we need to steer quickly through a tack to avoid getting in irons but bigger boats have more momentum so it is not necessary or advisable to steer as quickly as you can unless in really light wind.

Benny17441 · Apr 14, 2014

Easy does it, finesse over brute force. Turn the boat firmly but slowly across the wind. The sail will backwind gently and you may slowly release the now windward sheet while starting to pull on the now leeward one. The steep angle of attack through the slow transition will keep jib line forces to a minimum and once you have cleated the leeward sheet then continue to turn the boat now faster to build up driving force. If you slam the boat across then you are dealing with heavy forces and if you turn too slow or stop you can "stall" the sail. The wind speed will determine how slow you can turn the boat. Practice makes perfect.

Jackdaw · Apr 14, 2014

All boats are different, and you should experiment to find your best process.

On our First 367, this is our 'racing turn' process.

1) Helm over smoothly
2) Old sheet eased as soon as sail starts to luff.
3) With boat nose to wind, hold for 4 seconds
---) Allows an extra boat length gain STRAIGHT to windward
---) Allows trimmers to get clew around
4) Swing thru turn, boat sails trimmed for footing (slight ease)
5) Allow boat to come up to same speed as step #1
6) Trim in and head up to point mode.

Sunday Sailor · Apr 14, 2014

I'm sailing solo. When do I release jib and when do I trim it again?

Stu Jackson · Apr 14, 2014

Sunday Sailor said:
I'm sailing solo. When do I release jib and when do I trim it again?

Jackdaw's procedure is very good. If you have an autopilot it's a little more difficult to stop the turn in the middle, so just keep turning.

dstouten · Apr 15, 2014

Single handed tacking...

Joe is exactly correct. I single hand most of the time and this technique really works well. I do believe that after practicing this about a hundred times, it will become natural and smooth. I wear leather gloves with fingers exposed and have no rope burns ever. Again, timing and practice are the keys...

Happy sailing.

cephius (Dave) · Apr 16, 2014

I've sailed old low aspect designs where the bow would not go through the wind unless the head sails were back winded. Learning the timing was critical. Those boats would go into irons with the slightest miss-handling.

On modern high aspect sloops this is not a problem. I backwind just long enough to ensure the wind does all the work of blowing the jib to the lee. I find this more important when single handing, since it reduces the amount of time required on the sheets.

Sunday Sailor · Apr 16, 2014

Thanks for all the information. Now if it will just warm up a bit!

Scott B · Apr 16, 2014

lehigh375 said:
Thanks, i think I got the idea. Will try it on my first outting next week.

Something you may also want to try, which I do in the same boat.
Prior to tack I set the boat on Autopilot. I move the traveller up or down to the "after tack" postition. I then take 2 wraps on the leeward sheet winch and take up the slack and keep the sheet in my hand. I release the windward sheet from the cleat on the winch but leave it wrapped. I'm now standing with a sheet in each hand and hit Autotack on the Autopilot. As the bow moves around I let the jib backwind until the main kicks over then release the sheet. I then pull the leeward sheet, usually still not caught in the wind and not flapping, until snug then cleat and winch till tight.

All this without leaving the helm.