another question where do you that own a 23.5 tie off your jib lines ? I havent used thw winch at all and have been securing the jib lines directly from the jib to the cleats beside teh winches is this wrong? also I had to tie a small line where the jib secures to the bow as it never went over the pulpit so by adding a 16" line this extends the bottom of the jib and allows it to extend over the pulpit , wrong ? thanks for any input . lasty does securing the jib line further towards the back cleats and giving more slack produce any visble power?
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We usually wrap the jib sheet around the winch and then to the cleat. They are not long enough to go anywhere else. Ours came with a CDI furler on the jib.
Hi Bad co,
You didn't mention it but I assume you're going through the blocks on the cabin top first??? In lighter air I also go straight to the cleats next to the winch. In heavy air, especially when going to windward, take a wrap or two around the winch first. This way you can haul the sheet in tight and not pinch fingers when cleating or uncleating.
When running downwind I often tie a light 3/8 poly line to the jib clew, route it outside the shrouds skipping the turning blocks and winches and going straight aft to the ss eyes at the stern and the rear cleats. This gives you a fuller sail for down wind. I leave my other jib sheets on though and just leave them slack. Be sure and put a figure eight knot at the bitter end so they won't slip through the turning blocks.
Tying a pennant on the tack for the jib does raise it above the pulpit for better shape at the bottom but it also raises the center of effort of the sail and makes boat heel more. Since these boats are more tender anyway, I usually just attach right to the stem fitting.
You didn't mention it but I assume you're going through the blocks on the cabin top first??? In lighter air I also go straight to the cleats next to the winch. In heavy air, especially when going to windward, take a wrap or two around the winch first. This way you can haul the sheet in tight and not pinch fingers when cleating or uncleating.
When running downwind I often tie a light 3/8 poly line to the jib clew, route it outside the shrouds skipping the turning blocks and winches and going straight aft to the ss eyes at the stern and the rear cleats. This gives you a fuller sail for down wind. I leave my other jib sheets on though and just leave them slack. Be sure and put a figure eight knot at the bitter end so they won't slip through the turning blocks.
Tying a pennant on the tack for the jib does raise it above the pulpit for better shape at the bottom but it also raises the center of effort of the sail and makes boat heel more. Since these boats are more tender anyway, I usually just attach right to the stem fitting.
thanks for the input and yes they do go into the blocks first so on a downwind I should run the lines outside the shroud lines and secure on back cleats this gives a bit more power? lastly you say by hooking the jib at the bow with an extension makes the boat heal more? if this is true then I think I'll go back to the original setup. does your jib hit the pulpit as well when sailing ? the bottom never seems to leave the inside of the rail except for once ina great while , this doesnt affect or wear on the sail enough to say so ?
Another common way to increase downwind power is to " pole out " the jib with a wisker pole. this opens up the sail even more. I don't have one yet and they're kinda pricey. And with your tack pennant, if you're running mostly downwind it wont cause much more heeling if any but as soon as you turn crosswind or upwind it will become a factor. Try it for your self though and see what you like better. I had the same question when I first got my 23.5 and used a pennant to raise the sail above the pulpit. Then I noticed all the factory photos show the tack down at the stemhead and the sail chafing over the pulpit. So suit yourself, there is more than one way.
One more thing, since we with stock, fixed jibsheet blocks have no adjustment of the sheeting position, raising the jib tack on a pennant will change the way the sail sets. In some conditions this will be helpful in others not. Raising the tack on a pennant will probably cause a tight leech with a full foot and little sail twist.(assuming you are reaching or beating) This will make a powerfull sail in light air but overpowering in heavier air. So as you're trying these things think about sail shape you're getting vs the way it makes your boat perform.
Is the leech of the sail short enough that raising the tack up 16" will still allow you to tension the leech so that the sail maintanes its shape? Now that I think about it, I can't say that I've ever noticed how much room there is between the head of the sail and the top of the forstay.
I would think that moving the center of effort up by over a foot might make a difference in heel, and, moving the sail up also moves it aft. So the center of effort would also move aft, and may effect weather helm.
I can say that we are still using the original sails on our '93 23.5 (we are the original owners), and have noticed little or no additional wear caused by the pulpit.
I would think that moving the center of effort up by over a foot might make a difference in heel, and, moving the sail up also moves it aft. So the center of effort would also move aft, and may effect weather helm.
I can say that we are still using the original sails on our '93 23.5 (we are the original owners), and have noticed little or no additional wear caused by the pulpit.
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