Has anybody out there ever experimented with bringing the jib leads inside the toerail in order to try to get a Hunter 33 to point to weather? I have a new 110 jenny roller sail , and I am thinking of bringing the jib leads inside the first set of shrouds. Any input would be appreciated
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Try the archives Don.
See the Related Link below for one example. By searching the Forum Archives for "installing jib tracks" you should even find instructions for exactly how to secure them. I was thinking about this very thing on Saturday when I was trying to hold a course to the lighthouse on my H37C. Couldn't make it, had to tack twice.
See the Related Link below for one example. By searching the Forum Archives for "installing jib tracks" you should even find instructions for exactly how to secure them. I was thinking about this very thing on Saturday when I was trying to hold a course to the lighthouse on my H37C. Couldn't make it, had to tack twice.
Yes, I did
I installed 4-ft tracks a few years ago, and yes, the H33 will point higher. The difficulty was locating and drilling the holes in all the right places. I have learned a few lessons since doing this project. 1. Try to locate a device (I forget what it is called) that clamps onto your hand drill, and allows you to drill a hole 90 degrees to the deck. If you allow a hand drill to sway one way or the other, your screws won't seat properly in the rail. 2. Drill holes slightly larger than the screw hole. Tape off the bottom side of the hole. Fill with epoxy. Re-drill to the correct diameter for the screw. This will prevent any water from getting into the core material. 3. There are many suggestions on the material to use for bedding the rails. I used silicone. Placed a bead on the track bottom and around the holes. Placed the track in place, and tightened the hardware. Not too tight though, you have to give the silicone time to set-up. After it does, than you can snug up the nuts. 4. I used the nylon insert locking-nuts. I bought large washers as backing. 5. 4-ft tracks are a little long for me. I sail with a 150 furled genny. If you sail with the 110 and ever go to a 150, then 4-ft is probably OK for you. If you plan on only using one size sail, go with a shorter track. Hope this information helps. There is plenty of information out there including Don Casey's books. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty 1981 Hunter H33 My website link is listed below.
I installed 4-ft tracks a few years ago, and yes, the H33 will point higher. The difficulty was locating and drilling the holes in all the right places. I have learned a few lessons since doing this project. 1. Try to locate a device (I forget what it is called) that clamps onto your hand drill, and allows you to drill a hole 90 degrees to the deck. If you allow a hand drill to sway one way or the other, your screws won't seat properly in the rail. 2. Drill holes slightly larger than the screw hole. Tape off the bottom side of the hole. Fill with epoxy. Re-drill to the correct diameter for the screw. This will prevent any water from getting into the core material. 3. There are many suggestions on the material to use for bedding the rails. I used silicone. Placed a bead on the track bottom and around the holes. Placed the track in place, and tightened the hardware. Not too tight though, you have to give the silicone time to set-up. After it does, than you can snug up the nuts. 4. I used the nylon insert locking-nuts. I bought large washers as backing. 5. 4-ft tracks are a little long for me. I sail with a 150 furled genny. If you sail with the 110 and ever go to a 150, then 4-ft is probably OK for you. If you plan on only using one size sail, go with a shorter track. Hope this information helps. There is plenty of information out there including Don Casey's books. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty 1981 Hunter H33 My website link is listed below.
snatch block to vary jib lead?
My 79 H33 with jib sheet block on rail does just fine as compared with other cruising boats I sail with. Still, with the sheet block on the rail, the slot is pretty wide and often wish that I could close the slot some more when close hauled. (See track which is about as good as it will do.) As an alternative to tracks which I really don't want to install since the boat really does great except when close hauled, has anyone worked out a rigging scheme using snatch block and line that can bring the sheet inboard and reduce the sheeting angle?
My 79 H33 with jib sheet block on rail does just fine as compared with other cruising boats I sail with. Still, with the sheet block on the rail, the slot is pretty wide and often wish that I could close the slot some more when close hauled. (See track which is about as good as it will do.) As an alternative to tracks which I really don't want to install since the boat really does great except when close hauled, has anyone worked out a rigging scheme using snatch block and line that can bring the sheet inboard and reduce the sheeting angle?
Inboard sheeting.
In the most recent issue of Cruising World(or was it Sailing) this issue is addressed. A tighter sheeting to weather is accomplished by attaching a block to the boom. Then a spare sheet extension is tied to the jibsheet. Hard to explain, you need to see the pictures.
In the most recent issue of Cruising World(or was it Sailing) this issue is addressed. A tighter sheeting to weather is accomplished by attaching a block to the boom. Then a spare sheet extension is tied to the jibsheet. Hard to explain, you need to see the pictures.
Barberhauler
You can mount a snatch block with a line to the mast or even the opposite toerail to pull the jib sheeting angle in to the optimal 11 degrees. You then led the sheet throught the standrd block on the toerail to get the proper pull down to control twist of the jib. So the sheet goes: Clew of the jib, inside the stays, barber hauler block at 11 degrees off the centerline, block on the toerail, and then to the winch. This only works on our 110 furled to about 100 on our h27. It's a cruising, not a racing rig, because it does take some minutes to set up. But you can get a good idea of how the boat will respond with more optimal sheeting. I expect the results on a full draft 33 would convince you to mount a track, because it should go to weather well. Our shoal draft h27 will point quite nicely, but makes so much leeway that we are better off sheeting outside the stays, easing off, and realizing the speed of what is really a near reach. That is to say, we don't go to weather well at all. David Lady Lillie
You can mount a snatch block with a line to the mast or even the opposite toerail to pull the jib sheeting angle in to the optimal 11 degrees. You then led the sheet throught the standrd block on the toerail to get the proper pull down to control twist of the jib. So the sheet goes: Clew of the jib, inside the stays, barber hauler block at 11 degrees off the centerline, block on the toerail, and then to the winch. This only works on our 110 furled to about 100 on our h27. It's a cruising, not a racing rig, because it does take some minutes to set up. But you can get a good idea of how the boat will respond with more optimal sheeting. I expect the results on a full draft 33 would convince you to mount a track, because it should go to weather well. Our shoal draft h27 will point quite nicely, but makes so much leeway that we are better off sheeting outside the stays, easing off, and realizing the speed of what is really a near reach. That is to say, we don't go to weather well at all. David Lady Lillie
Have you..
talked to your sailmaker about this idea? Your new sail may not have the proper draft cut into it to allow a closer sheeting angle. Also, the closer angle may cause backwinding on the mainsail. You may need to have it recut to flatten it's draft. Then, after all the flattening is done, it will probably affect your speed while reaching, during which you should go back to the outboard lead for leach tension and to open the slot.
talked to your sailmaker about this idea? Your new sail may not have the proper draft cut into it to allow a closer sheeting angle. Also, the closer angle may cause backwinding on the mainsail. You may need to have it recut to flatten it's draft. Then, after all the flattening is done, it will probably affect your speed while reaching, during which you should go back to the outboard lead for leach tension and to open the slot.
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