I'm interested if many H-216 sailors have installed jib lead tracks on their boats. I'm thinking of it in order to get better sail trim for the jib. For those who have taken this step, is it working? Where did you get the tracks?
Jib Lead Tracks for Hunter 216
- Thread starter bobbened444
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I installed them. I think they were 15 or 16 inches. Maybe harken from defender. Prob could get away with 10" tracks. Just dont use the entire length. I put them 1" outboard of the existing blocks nearly up against the toe rail atop the cabin.
You adjust it slightly forward for lighter winds/downwind/reaching (if using the jib downwind). For upwind I slide them back but not too much so we dont over flatten the foot of the jib. Basically - forward controls the leech tension with a bellied foot. Aft controls a flatter foot and allows a little jib twist with less tension on the jib leech.
It's subtle but just another control which helps you do better.
You adjust it slightly forward for lighter winds/downwind/reaching (if using the jib downwind). For upwind I slide them back but not too much so we dont over flatten the foot of the jib. Basically - forward controls the leech tension with a bellied foot. Aft controls a flatter foot and allows a little jib twist with less tension on the jib leech.
It's subtle but just another control which helps you do better.
Thanks Paul. My problem has been rising lower jib telltale, no matter how hard I tighten the sheet. Definitely will get the leads. Bob
Paul, another question. My existing blocks are just outboard of the toe rails. Sounds like your original blocks may have been more inboard than mine. Are your tracks outboard of the toe rails now?
Bob
Bob
I have been thinking/fiddling with the jib controls since I got my H216. I did reposition the cleat a little which helped. I am not nearly as concerned with fore and aft movement of the jib sheet as I am with inboard and outboard movement. The sail shape sucks on a reach. Some time back I read some hints "published" by a dealer suggesting the installation of a couple blocks on the clew of the jib, installation of a couple eye straps near the jib cleats so one could run the sheets from the cleat, through the block, and back to the eye strap giving a 2:1 mechanical advantage. I think this is a good idea and have purchased the parts. I also bought more eye straps and couple snap shackles. I plan on placing more than one eye strap abeam of each other on each side. The shackles will go on the jib sheets. This way, the jib sheet end with shackle will attach to one of the eye straps then go to the jib clew block then back to the jib cam cleat. I will then be able to move jib clew more and less abeam by my selection of the eye strap I chose to use for the snap shackle. But, even though I have the hardware I have not installed it as yet.
Really interesting. I'm having trouble getting a picture of this in my head, but agree the sail shape often sucks and have tried some ad hoc measures to control inboard and outboard movement. Good luck.
When I installed the tracks and cars I did move them outboard by about an inch but not further than the toe rail. I also do use a 2:1 purchase with air blocks in the clew. Actually - this is supposed to be the configuration (sans the blocks) accordingly to my owners manual. When run this way you only have about 3' of jib sheet remaining when furled. We race quite a bit and the winds are typically high so the purchase allows my crew to trim/ease accordingly and easily.
As far as putting additional straps outboard of the rail - I considered it but thought there was too much clutter with the spin tack and pole controls. When below a beam reach and below my crew acts as a whisker pole. And usually the asail is out anyways and the jib is furled. Since it's a working jib it's hard to get a good shape on those points of sail.
Oh I also redesigned the jib and increased the luff and the foot length so it's a little more full with a better 3d shape. I also added vertical battens in the jib to keep it's shape. Tremendous difference but within 155 limits of my phrf.
As far as putting additional straps outboard of the rail - I considered it but thought there was too much clutter with the spin tack and pole controls. When below a beam reach and below my crew acts as a whisker pole. And usually the asail is out anyways and the jib is furled. Since it's a working jib it's hard to get a good shape on those points of sail.
Oh I also redesigned the jib and increased the luff and the foot length so it's a little more full with a better 3d shape. I also added vertical battens in the jib to keep it's shape. Tremendous difference but within 155 limits of my phrf.
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