Jamming Roller Furling

[Phil P]

My roller furlling invariably jams up with the line getting crossed and lumpy inside the roller. I have a Harken system of unknown vintage (but not original to the boat which is a '91 and had the whatever roller buried in the anchor locker) and the roller line is as narrow as I can get. I've arranged the lead block to the roller so it's mid opening but that only helped a little bit. The only real solution is to sit up by the roller and hand wind the line in so it's neat and tidy. I'm thinking if there was some kind of gizmo like they have on fishing reels to ensure the line wraps uniformly and neatly that would work but failing that, I'm at a loss.

Any recomendations?

 

[justsomeguy]

I've heard you can de-core a section of the line closest to the furler, reducing bulk.

 

[RuddyDuck]

The first four feet or so of line leading into the drum is de-cored on my furling system. The angle leading into the drum is important as well.

 

[BioAndy]

At the risk of stateing the obvious, the furling control line should have some tension on it while unfurling the headsail so the line wraps on the drum are tight and more orderly than just having it freewheel when unfurling, possibly causing the crossed and lumpy line on the drum.

 

[artboas]

You are correct

The first four feet or so of line leading into the drum is de-cored on my furling system. The angle leading into the drum is important as well.

I took out the core for at least 10 feet.
The line lays flat, and takes up less room

 

[nolasafari]

How old it the line, is it stiff. Give it a good washing with a lot of fabric softner. Plus what everyone else stated.

Jim

 

[Phil P]

Thanks. Yes keeping it taught helps but not always. VERY interested in the de-coring aspect. Are there instructions somewhere on how to do this?

 

[justsomeguy]

You'll just need to carefully open the outer sheath and dig out the core, then pull it out.

It's not a bad idea to trim/taper the remaining core, also. Makes for a smoother transition.

 

[Phil P]

Thanks. Will try that!

 

[Swallow]

Jammed roller furling

The guidelines that I was given was that the line should be twice the boat length and the de-cored part should be the length of the boat.

That seems to work in practise but de-coring a little less than the length of the boat would work well too.

Works on my boat with no jamming issues.

 

[rardiH36]

You say your roller line is as narrow as you can get. Are you referring to the diameter of the line? What is the diameter you are using? My Profurl C350 instruction specifies 5/16". My previous line was 3/8" inch without issue.

 

[wufibugs]

When I searched to archives, looked to me like the consensus was 1 1/2 times the boat length. I would think you wouldn't want to de-core more than 10 feet of the sheet on a 25' boat because I don't think one would want the de-cored line on the winch.
What does de-coring do for the life of the rope? It had been suggested that one of the reasons to invest in high quality rope is that as it ages it can be swapped into less stressful applications. Do people actually do that?

 

[Scott B]

How much line is left on the drum when furled. Maybe too much?

Also, how old, stiff and full of salt is the line. All of the above will add ot the line not wanting to roll evenly on the drum.

 

[Don12364]

Too many turns? When the jib is fully unrolled all you need left on the drum is a couple of turns just in case you roll the sail more tightly next time - I always furl with two turns of jib sheets round the sail anyway so it cannot blow out in a gale.

My Profurl has a problem where, when on a dead run the sail blows from side to side and despite always keeping some tension on the line the rotation of the furler back and forth the line can work its way past the vertical wires of the cage and under the lower flange of the drum - then try to furl it!
Single handed I nearly had a bad accident so in 2002 I made a disk in two halves that fits on the drum, inside its lower flange and which makes it impossible for the line to get over the drum edge.
See pictures - without disk; with disk and disk itself.

 

[rfrye1]

Great Idea Donalex!

Yes I've been in that same situation a few times. It's no fun lying down, with the bow bobbing up & down in the waves trying to un-jamb the furler. How did you make this? You must access to a machine shop. Can you post, or email me a diagram? I'll have a client who owns a metal shop make one. Is it aluminum? Or stainless?
Thanks. Bob

 

[justsomeguy]

I think you'd just need a drill press and (if using stainless) a carbide circle cutter.

I think.

 

[Don12364]

Please see the attached .pdf drawing. 2 off each item required.
I make all manner of bits and pieces in my garage at home.
In 2002 I made the plate for Autumn Legend's furler out of 1/8" thick aluminium plate left raw with no finish. Still looks good as new. It is all held together with 4 off ½" long 4mm (3/16") diameter stainless bolts & nuts. Sorry the dimensions are all in metric but that is what we have to do over here nowadays!

Remember my furler is a PROFURL so your dimensions will most likely be different.
Any competent metalworker should be able to make something suitable given the diameter of your drum and the spacing between the wires of your line cage. It just rests in position and runs against on the top flange of the drum. It generates negligible friction compared to rolling the sail.
Good Luck.