We see that a lot of sailers use inch wide strap for jacklines. I would like to know what everyone uses, size, strength etc, before I invest in some. Thanks
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Crazy Dave Condon
what are you talking about
a better definition is needed to help you. Are you reffereing to Lazy Jacks and if so, I find that to be a pain or hindrance for such a small boat. Crazy Dave Condon
a better definition is needed to help you. Are you reffereing to Lazy Jacks and if so, I find that to be a pain or hindrance for such a small boat. Crazy Dave Condon
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Bob
you know don't you?
They are the lines that run from the bow (front)of the yacht to the stern (back) of the yacht and you attach your harness lead (the thing you where to save your life) to it so that you can move to the front (bow) and back (stern) and know that if you happen to loose balance or slip and go overboard the harness that you are wearing that is attached to the jackline (are you getting the picture) that is connected to the bow (front) of the yacht through to the Stern (back) of the yacht will in all probabilities save your bloody life. Is that clear enough crazy Dave.
They are the lines that run from the bow (front)of the yacht to the stern (back) of the yacht and you attach your harness lead (the thing you where to save your life) to it so that you can move to the front (bow) and back (stern) and know that if you happen to loose balance or slip and go overboard the harness that you are wearing that is attached to the jackline (are you getting the picture) that is connected to the bow (front) of the yacht through to the Stern (back) of the yacht will in all probabilities save your bloody life. Is that clear enough crazy Dave.
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Len Fagan
Jack Lines
Jack lines should be stronger than your safty harness. West marine and others have standard polyester webbing jacklines rated at 6000 lb minimum breake strength. I have this type and sail with others that use this flat type verses line or wire. I use an inflatable vest with harness and 6 foot tether. Len Fagan "Tale Winds"
Jack lines should be stronger than your safty harness. West marine and others have standard polyester webbing jacklines rated at 6000 lb minimum breake strength. I have this type and sail with others that use this flat type verses line or wire. I use an inflatable vest with harness and 6 foot tether. Len Fagan "Tale Winds"
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Paul
I use webbing
Webbing lays flat and is strong. West Marine sells web jackline that has loops sewn in the ends, about $40 depending on the length you need. There are ORC standards for jackline material, as well as for harnesses and tethers. You might want to research them.
Webbing lays flat and is strong. West Marine sells web jackline that has loops sewn in the ends, about $40 depending on the length you need. There are ORC standards for jackline material, as well as for harnesses and tethers. You might want to research them.
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Nancy Berg
Flat is better
Flat jack lines are easier to walk on. (If they lay on the deck) They do not roll under your feet.
Flat jack lines are easier to walk on. (If they lay on the deck) They do not roll under your feet.
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Dave Laing s/v WindSong
Where to connect the jacklines
Here's yet another question regarding jacklines. Where do you connect them? I've seen where sailors have tied them to lifeline stancions but this doesn't seem very strong. Dave Laing
Here's yet another question regarding jacklines. Where do you connect them? I've seen where sailors have tied them to lifeline stancions but this doesn't seem very strong. Dave Laing
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Paul
Cleats
I have two different types of jackline. I have one jackline with a caribiner that I hook through a hole in the side of the bow rollers. The other one has a sewn loop which I place around the bow cleat (with a cow's hitch). I cleat the other ends to the stern cleats. I pull them as tight as possible. John Rousmaniere (famous sailing author), in an article on Sailnet.com, recommends wetting the jacklines before installing them, so that they get even tighter as they dry.
I have two different types of jackline. I have one jackline with a caribiner that I hook through a hole in the side of the bow rollers. The other one has a sewn loop which I place around the bow cleat (with a cow's hitch). I cleat the other ends to the stern cleats. I pull them as tight as possible. John Rousmaniere (famous sailing author), in an article on Sailnet.com, recommends wetting the jacklines before installing them, so that they get even tighter as they dry.
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Mark
Cleats
We run ours as one length. Fixed to the main sheet u-bolt around the starboard side through the starboard bow mooring cleat, across the bow, through the port mooring cleat and back to the mainsheet u-bolt.
We run ours as one length. Fixed to the main sheet u-bolt around the starboard side through the starboard bow mooring cleat, across the bow, through the port mooring cleat and back to the mainsheet u-bolt.
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Crazy Dave Condon
oops
Bob; I have heard of jack lines used under different terms. Excuse my ignorance of the term. I have seen them used on the larger boats. I have not seen them attached to the trailerables in this neck of the woods as most usually go inland but sometimnes at the coast. Where are you sailing? Crazy Dave Condon
Bob; I have heard of jack lines used under different terms. Excuse my ignorance of the term. I have seen them used on the larger boats. I have not seen them attached to the trailerables in this neck of the woods as most usually go inland but sometimnes at the coast. Where are you sailing? Crazy Dave Condon
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Ron/KA5HZV
Some Info from Sailrite Catalog
1.) Measure the area where jacklines should be run. Remember, it is best to postion them as far inboard as possible so you can clip on your harness tether before stepping out of the cockpit. 2.)Add three feet of extra webing for cleating and tying off. And another 6" for sewing on the snap hook. Sailrite sells 1" webbing (6000lbs breaking strength) in white and royal blue for $.60 per foot. (20% discount on roll of 150ft.) Wichard snap hooks are $21.00 www.sailrite.com Ron/KA5HZV
1.) Measure the area where jacklines should be run. Remember, it is best to postion them as far inboard as possible so you can clip on your harness tether before stepping out of the cockpit. 2.)Add three feet of extra webing for cleating and tying off. And another 6" for sewing on the snap hook. Sailrite sells 1" webbing (6000lbs breaking strength) in white and royal blue for $.60 per foot. (20% discount on roll of 150ft.) Wichard snap hooks are $21.00 www.sailrite.com Ron/KA5HZV
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Chuck Wayne
jacklines-don't do it yourself!!
if you've read the threads on jacklines, buy them professionally made!!! approved jacklines are made to take huge (5000-6000 lb) shockloads and are stitched to strict standards-unless you are really sure of what you're doing, don't save $10 and have the jackline stitching fail when you need it most-as you're going over the side!
if you've read the threads on jacklines, buy them professionally made!!! approved jacklines are made to take huge (5000-6000 lb) shockloads and are stitched to strict standards-unless you are really sure of what you're doing, don't save $10 and have the jackline stitching fail when you need it most-as you're going over the side!
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Jim Willis
Jacklines, harnesses and singlehanding
When I sailed to HI from CA some years ago I was VERY lucky to be advised by a veteran single-hander who had done several Atlantic crossings. His advise was the opposite to the tradition of having jacklines on both sides of the boat and using "high side" and "low side" method. He said that you should always fall inwards. If you go overboard you will never get back in (without crew members to pull you in). This is becuse of the weight of wet clothes and the drag as your body is pulled through the water. I bought red NYLON webbing from Svendsens in Alameda and put down the center of the boat from a padeye at the foot of the steering pedestal over the companway door, over the top of the pilot house and to the the anchoring post at the bow, using the windlass to mek it really taught. This was a double length of webbing so that if one broke (actually imposssible) the other took the strain. Both together were very "springy" (see below). Then I used a harness from (WM before it became "corporate" ) with TWO webbing attachments with shackles on the end. I always "plugged in" before even coming out of the companionway and arranged the harness so that when on the fordeck, one harness branch "pulled me down" onto the deck so that I would not lose gravity going over the tops of waves. The other branch from the harness went to a mast step so that if I did fall I was held up from actually going all the way down. This way I could even use a whisker pole single handed on the ocean (one day I want to make a sort of belt to hold one end of the pole while placing it). When right out on the foredeck, I was on all fours, with the short part of the harness on jack line and other half on pulpit rail. Did this while setting up sea anchor for possible deployment etc. The guy who gave me his advice was a really lucky find and I try to pass this on all the time. I have never seen commercial jacklines but unless it is exactly right it wont be any good and dacron webbing has no "stretch" to keep you planted upright on the foredeck. This is a real life situation and I am sure it made sure I made it. THe guy told me that there have been cases of people still attached to the boat, but drowned because they could not get back in. Thanks ALW
When I sailed to HI from CA some years ago I was VERY lucky to be advised by a veteran single-hander who had done several Atlantic crossings. His advise was the opposite to the tradition of having jacklines on both sides of the boat and using "high side" and "low side" method. He said that you should always fall inwards. If you go overboard you will never get back in (without crew members to pull you in). This is becuse of the weight of wet clothes and the drag as your body is pulled through the water. I bought red NYLON webbing from Svendsens in Alameda and put down the center of the boat from a padeye at the foot of the steering pedestal over the companway door, over the top of the pilot house and to the the anchoring post at the bow, using the windlass to mek it really taught. This was a double length of webbing so that if one broke (actually imposssible) the other took the strain. Both together were very "springy" (see below). Then I used a harness from (WM before it became "corporate" ) with TWO webbing attachments with shackles on the end. I always "plugged in" before even coming out of the companionway and arranged the harness so that when on the fordeck, one harness branch "pulled me down" onto the deck so that I would not lose gravity going over the tops of waves. The other branch from the harness went to a mast step so that if I did fall I was held up from actually going all the way down. This way I could even use a whisker pole single handed on the ocean (one day I want to make a sort of belt to hold one end of the pole while placing it). When right out on the foredeck, I was on all fours, with the short part of the harness on jack line and other half on pulpit rail. Did this while setting up sea anchor for possible deployment etc. The guy who gave me his advice was a really lucky find and I try to pass this on all the time. I have never seen commercial jacklines but unless it is exactly right it wont be any good and dacron webbing has no "stretch" to keep you planted upright on the foredeck. This is a real life situation and I am sure it made sure I made it. THe guy told me that there have been cases of people still attached to the boat, but drowned because they could not get back in. Thanks ALW
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Ron
Chuck Wayne
Chuck... I have to disagree with your disagreement. I trust my work over someone who is in a hurry to punch out and go home everytime. A box X stitch with V-69 or V-96 thread will be in place long after the webbing has failed. I trust my life to it eveytime I go aloft. The idea that paying someone to do what you can do better goes against my very being. I do all my own work and I know it's right... But, you can disagree and hire someone if you like. In fact, I'll build you some Jacklines myself... for a price! Check my work out in the photo forum... Everything you see there I built... Ron/KA5HZV
Chuck... I have to disagree with your disagreement. I trust my work over someone who is in a hurry to punch out and go home everytime. A box X stitch with V-69 or V-96 thread will be in place long after the webbing has failed. I trust my life to it eveytime I go aloft. The idea that paying someone to do what you can do better goes against my very being. I do all my own work and I know it's right... But, you can disagree and hire someone if you like. In fact, I'll build you some Jacklines myself... for a price! Check my work out in the photo forum... Everything you see there I built... Ron/KA5HZV
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David Foster
Use the dock lines
When we get under way, we put a loop with a bowline on hte end of the the bowline, run the stern line through the loop, and pull it tight at the aft cleat. The other side is usually made up in the same way. On our '77 h27, this line hugs the cabin, and we have a wide side deck, so I have yet to step on it, and roll. For daytime cruising, and day-sailing on Lake Erie, this seems good to us. I would carefully consider Jim Willis's center line approach if I was singlehanding a long run in open water. I clip my harness on to a pad-eye or jackline at any time we are under way, if there is not another skipper on board who is competent to pick me up on a man overboard. I wear the WM harness with the inflatable life preserver. With seas over 3 feet, any crew going forward will wear a harness, and hook onto a jackline. David Lady Lillie
When we get under way, we put a loop with a bowline on hte end of the the bowline, run the stern line through the loop, and pull it tight at the aft cleat. The other side is usually made up in the same way. On our '77 h27, this line hugs the cabin, and we have a wide side deck, so I have yet to step on it, and roll. For daytime cruising, and day-sailing on Lake Erie, this seems good to us. I would carefully consider Jim Willis's center line approach if I was singlehanding a long run in open water. I clip my harness on to a pad-eye or jackline at any time we are under way, if there is not another skipper on board who is competent to pick me up on a man overboard. I wear the WM harness with the inflatable life preserver. With seas over 3 feet, any crew going forward will wear a harness, and hook onto a jackline. David Lady Lillie
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Mark
Cleats/Strong enough??
This has been an interesting discussion however I'm not sure that the cleats on a 260 would support the weight of someone going overboard. Any thoughts from anyone??
This has been an interesting discussion however I'm not sure that the cleats on a 260 would support the weight of someone going overboard. Any thoughts from anyone??
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Chuck Wayne
agree to disagree!
no insult intended! if you know what you're doing, I agree you'll pay more attention to the quality of your product-but many people don't, and I've seen some incredible jury rigs on the water
no insult intended! if you know what you're doing, I agree you'll pay more attention to the quality of your product-but many people don't, and I've seen some incredible jury rigs on the water
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Jim Willis
Like the idea David Foster's dockline idea
For a boat that you don't want to clutter up with permanent ocean-going stuff, the dockline idea is great especially since it docklines are stretchy nylon and can be used to "pull you down" onto the deck Another thing about stitching etc. Just tying knots or cleating is a cheap way and cannot fail (if you know how to knot!) JimW
For a boat that you don't want to clutter up with permanent ocean-going stuff, the dockline idea is great especially since it docklines are stretchy nylon and can be used to "pull you down" onto the deck Another thing about stitching etc. Just tying knots or cleating is a cheap way and cannot fail (if you know how to knot!) JimW
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Ron
Chuck Wayne
No insult taken. And, I too have seen some pretty awful boats. So, how's the weather up there?? Ron
No insult taken. And, I too have seen some pretty awful boats. So, how's the weather up there?? Ron
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Chuck Wayne
Ron
the weather's been great,alternating between heatwave with flat seas and 80's with 10-15kts. We've been so busy that after shakedown, we've only managed one overnight in our 356-fog, rain, and no wind all the way!I'm hoping for a better fall!good sailing!(i'm temporarily aground in san jose on business)
the weather's been great,alternating between heatwave with flat seas and 80's with 10-15kts. We've been so busy that after shakedown, we've only managed one overnight in our 356-fog, rain, and no wind all the way!I'm hoping for a better fall!good sailing!(i'm temporarily aground in san jose on business)
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