Jabso head replacement versus pump rebuild

[Bob Early]

Peggy, if I understand your words and terminology correct, then you'd suggest total reacement of the Jabsco head (approx $150 + S&H) instead of rebuilding the pump assembly (kit approx $50 + S&H) ?Or did I misunderstand the intent of your words in the few articles I did read?In my case, the head works fine, except for the bowl flushdown, which is a little inconvenient to pour additional water into the bowl.The "Through hull" intake is wide open, but has to pass over the anit-siphon break to get there.The pump does "suck out" what liquid there is, with its waste, and transfers it to the holding tank. It was also mentioned that if the pump is not lubricated, it would fail prematurely. Other than disamantling the pump, how would one 'lubricate' the pump ?Sorry if I sound like an ignorant newbie, that because I are one. Thanks,Bob

 

[Peggie Hall/Head Mistress]

$150 for a Jabsco manual toilet???

BOAT/US usually has it on sale for $99. Whether to invest in two rebuild kits in 5 years for a $99 toilet that only has an average 5 year lifespan before something that isn't in the rebuild kit breaks is up to you. I'd just make sure it stays VERY well lubricated and keep using it till something breaks that isn't in the rebuild kit, and then replace it.Where is the vented loop in your intake--between the thru-hull and the pump (where it shouldn't be)...or between the pump and the bowl (where it belongs)?It's not necessary to completely dismantle the pump to lubricate it...just open the top, put a healthy squirt of SuperLube--the thick teflon grease that comes in a tube, not liquid or spray...pump it a few times...put the top back on the pump. It's a 15 minute job that makes the toilet good to go till next year.

 

[Vic Willman]

Head Replacement ???

You mentioned having to pull the intake flush water over the anti-siphon loop. That's the problem; your toilet (head) is OK but the installation of the loop is wrong. The intake side of the manual pump is sucking air through the vent on the loop, so it doesn't bring in any flush water to rinse the bowl, and you have to add water from an external source. The best place for a vented loop on the supply water side of a manual marine head is between the rear of the toilet pump and the entrance to the toilet bowl - the hose connecting the rear of the pump to the rear of the bowl is removed. A new hose is then run from the rear of the pump, upward to a satisfactory point above the waterline. The vented loop fitting is added, then another hose is run from the other side of the vented loop fitting to the rear of the toilet bowl. this configuration will allow the intake side of the manual pump to work properly.

 

[Bob Early]

Boat US Catalog price quoted.

The price quote came out of a BoatUS "full catalog". I did locate an older sale flyer that they are under $100, when on sale.(Ownership of this boat is new to me)I'll have to recheck the vented loop. I think something may be mis-routed. When we ran the macerator for overboard discharge yesterday, I could hear a "sucking" noise from the head. (The venturi effect, I think).Shortly after, the boat was aswarm with flies, about the size a common housefly (not green heads or deeerflies), and have a real nasty blood drawing bite. More like biting through the skin instead of like mosquito 'snorkel' tube. (I don't know for sure, but I think they may have been dorman larvae waiting to hatch out in the excrement.)(The head had not been dumped in about 3 months due to delays in launching the boat.)Thanks,Bob