Jabsco Electric head issue...

[weinie]

Peggy,

Last year I replaced a jabsco manual head with the electric version (model 37010- 1090) in my '87 Catalina 27.

After heeling the boat, I would get water in the bowl. However, although the water looked grey, I wasn't 100% sure if it wasn't just dirty sea water. Since then, I've read almost every one of your posts in this forum!

Anyway, I proceeded to install a vented loop in between the pump and the bowl in the intake line. That and I have shut the intake seacock before sailing pretty much guaranteeing that my problem is with the other kind of "water".

I removed the joker valve and notice that it is much flimsier and smaller than the manual head's version. There was also a gap between the flaps when you look through it... Perhaps that was my problem; maybe it was just a bad valve?

So I proceed to order 2 new ones (the second one being a spare of course). When I opened the package, however, I can still see a gap between the flaps about 1mm wide. The second one has the gap too! Therefore, I am hesitant to even go through the trouble to replace the old one now!

I know what you're gonna say.... vented loop in the waste line!!!
But I just find it hard to believe that is really required here. I've been in several catalinas without a vented loop, and no problem! Frankly, there is just no place to run it without it being overly an eyesore (yes, I know the whole floating condo thing), and secondly, there would always be some water running back into the bowl that didn't climb the loop.

Therefore, I must now, on bended knee, appeal to your infinite head wisdom!

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Wellllllll....

Frome all you've said, it seems that that what you're seeing in the bowl is definitely backflow. There are only 2 solutions:

1. a loop...doesn't have to be a VENTED loop, but it does have to be just that high...and it should be installed immiediately after the toilet, so that the flush only has to clear the top of it, then gravity will get it the rest of the way to the tank. That will prevent anything left in the line from running back to the head and also prevent tank contents from getting back into the bowl.

2. Relocate the inlet and vent fiittings on the tank in addition to #1.

Actually, there is a 3rd: learn to sail upright or trade the sailboat for a trawler.

 

[weinie]

2. Relocate the inlet and vent fiittings on the tank in addition to #1.

How so?

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Relocating tank fittings

It's a lot easier than it used to be...'cuz thanks to a li'l gadget called the Uniseal UNISEAL alccess to the inside of the tank is no longer required.

Tank contents spill out the vent and/or runs back to the toilet when heeling puts the vent and inlet fittings on the tank "downhill" on the tank. So to prevent prevent this from happening, move the vent and inlet fittings away from the hull...as close to the boat's centerline as possible...so that when the boat heels on one tack, waste runs away from those fittings...on the other tack, those two lines are running uphill.

 

[weinie]

That sounds like the right solution, provided I remember not to let the tank fill up to high!

Before, I posted here originally, I sent an email to ITT (the makers of Jabsco).

Here's the reply I got.

I am glad that the toilet is working up to the point that the boat heels. There is only one joker valve for this model toilet and we also use the same valve in other series of toilets. The valve may show light if for example you take it out of the packaging and hold it up to the light. It will, however, take very little back pressure to close it preventing backflow within limits. I’d be happy to send you one to compare with what you have if that would be any help.

So with all of this let’s try to get to an answer to help. The toilet pumps up to the holding tank. Waste does not start to backflow until the boat is heeled which has me ask about the inlet hose. If the waste inlet hose to the holding tank is such that the weight of the contents of the holding tank are being pushed against the joker valve I would suggest running the hose so that the contents cannot be directly pushed onto the joker valve. If this is not possible it may be necessary to look at some other arrangement like a check valve at the entry to the holding tank.

Please review and let me know if you would like to discuss further.

Regards,

I bought a check valve today at WM that seems to have a flap that moves with very light pressure, yet seals tight with just a little pressure from upstream. I'll give that a shot for now. It should get me through the season at least. If I still am having issues, I will definitely do what you suggest! It seems easy enough too. I thought I would have to remove the whole tank, but that uniseal seems like a great product!! (If it dosn't leak!).


My other thought was possibly installing a solenoid valve that opens when the flush button is pressed. I was considering that originally for the intake line, but I knew you would not like that idea... should it fail in the open position, I might not know it until water was filling the bilge! So instead, I put in a vented loop that is slightly higher than the sink top (the drain is of course the toilet intake). If i had to do the same with 1 1/2" hose, I just wouldn't have the space to put a nice, neat loop.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

I wouldn't install the valves

Adding one way valves and check valves is likely to cause more problems than it solves if they don't sync with the toilet flush. And no...a solenoid valve in the head discharge would be an even worse idea!

Live with what you have for the remainder of the season, then fiix it the right way.