Jabsco Electic Conversion

[agaliha]

Peggy (et al),
I have purchased an electric conversion kit for the Jabsco head in my Beneteau 361 (for the convenience of the admiral). The instructions say it must be wired straight to the battery with 8 gauge wire. Does anyone have any tips about attaching the wire to the battery terminals? Also, any tips on the wiring route from the house battery to the head in this particular boat?
Thanks,
Agaliha

 

[ITMaster]

That Seems Strange To Me

I'm not sure why they would want you to run a wire directly to the battery without some sort of overload protection. I wouldn't. The only direct wiring coming from my batteries goes to the battery selection switches and the starter. From my selector switches, the wiring goes to my electric panel.

My boat has an electric head on it and the power comes from the panel with a breaker mounted with an overload protection incorporated into it. When I go to work on the pump to rebuild it, I turn off the breaker and do the work I need to safely. When the pump is used excessively, like when someone overloads the head and puts to much paper in there, the pump motor will overheat and trip the breaker. I have a very detailed and explicit PDF that I'll be happy to e-mail you if you let me know.

 

[agaliha]

High Amperage Draw

Thanks. I was hoping to find someone who had installed this very unit (Jabsco 29200-0120). The unit has a 25 amp fuse (in-line) to protect from overload. Here's a direct quotation from the instructions, "The Conversion should be connected to the power source with an electrical circuit independent of all other accessories. Do not connect via existing distribution boards unless they are suitable for high draw amps." The chart shows a draw of "25 amps" with supply wire size of 10 gauge (for a distance of up to 13 feet). Nothing on my distribution board draws this kind of load. My anchor windlass is not wired through the distribution board for this same reason.
Agaliha

 

[ITMaster]

I'll take a look this afternoon

to see exactly how I have mine wired. Actually, if your Jabsco only has a 25 amp protection, that is even lower than mine. I love to watch the amp meter peg out when people flush the head; it is to me like watching the meter spin at the house when the a/c is running (kaching, there goes my hard earned money). One thing you can do to reduce the load would be to use 8 gauge wiring in lieu of the 10.

My meter jumps into the mid 30 to low 40 amp range when the pump is running, especially when it starts to grind away at the bowl contents. Use lots of water if you don't want to be frequently unclogging it.

For my windlass, I have a breaker located on my panel next to the main panel disconnect and the batteries selector knob.

I'll get back with you on the way my wiring is configured.

 

[Bob V]

Manufaturer CYA

I think that the reason the manufacturer calls for a direct connection to the battery is that they have no way of knowing the condition of the wires supplying your distribution panel.

The longer the path and higher the draw you have the more resistance you create so bringing it directly to the battery with proper fuse or circuit breaker in the + line is the safest recommendation.

On many boats the distribution panel may have been designed to run lights, radio and other light loads. If that is the case and you install good heavy wire from the panel to the toilet, you may overload the wires to your panel and cause a fire between there and the battery.

Most of our batteries have screw terminals in addition to the standard terminals that the large leads connect to. If there is room you can make your connections directly to these terminals. If they are crowded with other wires you can connect a buss bar to the screw terminal to make room for everything. The 10 gauge wire they recommended probably came with a maximum length suggested. If longer be sure to go to the next size of wire.

Also don't scrimp on zip ties. Chafe can get you if you are not carefull.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Re: Manufaturer CYA

I don't think you're gonna like that toilet...it draws a whopping 24a--compared to 16 for most other macerating electric toilets--and makes enough noise to wake the dead. It's also highly prone to clogging.

As for wiring it: all electric toilets need to be on their own dedicated circuit, shared by nothing else that can pull power away from it if on when the toilet is flushed, 'cuz low voltage is damaging to electric motors.