OK, so we spent the week-end in San Diego, getting the pink slip and changing the watch on "Running on Empty", our new (to us) 1990 Hunter Vision 32!!! Then on Tuesday, we started taking her apart to go on the truck to bring her home to San Francisco Bay. We managed to spend one night and 2 days on board, so here are the first of my questions: RoE V32 Questions 1)Has anyone added engine instruments? What kind and where did you put them? 2)Where are your prop shaft zinks located on the shaft? 3)There is a small sump beneath the shaft coupling, that would take drips from shaft log & both aft sea cocks. Mine has a 5/8" hole drilled almost all the way through the forward-most athwartships section (stringer). This would allow the sump to drain to the sump area beneath the engine. Becaus the hole is not all the way through, it does not drain. Does anyone have this going all the way through? Has anyone done anything else? 4)the two sternmost seacocks-has anyone replaced them? What did you use? 5)Has anyone added a real-live shower sump? What did you use? 6)How do you keep your boarding/swim ladder in the up position? Mine does not flop down, but there is nothing to hold it in place... 7)Has anyone added a fan or fans to the saloon/ cabin/forpeak area? What did you use & where did you put them & where did you bring power from? 8)The disco light bar: I was shocked when I saw that it drew like 10 amps!!! Is this normal? Has anyone done anything to reduce the power consumption? (on the other hand, the light is actually rather pleasing overall) 9)Hi temp in the instrument panel area below the factory panel: Maybe it's just our FM/CD player ( a high-power (45x4) Panasonic unit), but the CD I took out after playing for a couple of cycles was really hot. Has anyone else noticed this? Thats all for now!
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Congratulations!!!!!
Tom: Glad you completed the deal. Very exciting. 1. As far as engine instruments are concerned, you really do not need them but if you want them there are several posts in the archives on the subject. You can have the Yanmar people help you with the hookup (Richmond Boat Works is good). You can use just about any brand. You need to 'tee' into the existing sensors. DO NOT REMOVE THE IDIOT BELLS. 2. The seacocks, are yours still gate valves? You can get ball valves from West Marine or anyone else in the area. Be sure that they are NOT brass, must be bronze. 3. Fans (in the bay?). Hella Turbo fans are the way to go. Shop around because W/M prices are high $65. 4. Don't know about your "Disco Light Bar" but AlpenGlow Marine Lights are some of the best around. They are not cheap but are very well made and have as low a current drain as anything around. They DO NOT have a web site. Their phone number is 406/889-3586. Hope to see ya in the Delta this summer!
Tom: Glad you completed the deal. Very exciting. 1. As far as engine instruments are concerned, you really do not need them but if you want them there are several posts in the archives on the subject. You can have the Yanmar people help you with the hookup (Richmond Boat Works is good). You can use just about any brand. You need to 'tee' into the existing sensors. DO NOT REMOVE THE IDIOT BELLS. 2. The seacocks, are yours still gate valves? You can get ball valves from West Marine or anyone else in the area. Be sure that they are NOT brass, must be bronze. 3. Fans (in the bay?). Hella Turbo fans are the way to go. Shop around because W/M prices are high $65. 4. Don't know about your "Disco Light Bar" but AlpenGlow Marine Lights are some of the best around. They are not cheap but are very well made and have as low a current drain as anything around. They DO NOT have a web site. Their phone number is 406/889-3586. Hope to see ya in the Delta this summer!
Questions
I do not have your model Hunter but here are some suggestions: 2. I keep my zincs at least 1" forward of the strut to allow proper cutlass lubrication. 5. A few years ago I added a shower sump that came with all the necessary fittings and a float switch activated pump. 6. My ladder does not flop down but I do keep a short line attached that reaches the waterline in the event that someone overboard can pull down the ladder. I NEVER fasten the ladder in the upright position.
I do not have your model Hunter but here are some suggestions: 2. I keep my zincs at least 1" forward of the strut to allow proper cutlass lubrication. 5. A few years ago I added a shower sump that came with all the necessary fittings and a float switch activated pump. 6. My ladder does not flop down but I do keep a short line attached that reaches the waterline in the event that someone overboard can pull down the ladder. I NEVER fasten the ladder in the upright position.
Improvements to V32
I have had mine on Lake Ontario for five years ('90 model) and because I am an engineer and have not learned how to not tinker, I have installed several items. First, a fuel tank gauge. How Hunter ever expected anyone to see how much fuel is in there, I don't know. Battery status board (digital) and a new three step battery charging control. These are mounted in the cabin next to the battery switch. I changed all instruments and added autopilot, wind, GPS (map, of course), on deck speaker for radio including remote mike. Also replaced the tape music system for a better sound system with digital disk. Down below, added new cabnets in the V birth area so my grandson has a place to put his "junk." In the master cabin, I removed the covering on the far wall and put in a cabnet to hold bed clothing. This works out real well because I don't want to go fliping cushions to find anything under the bedding. As far as the drain under the transmission, the crossbar has a whole that allows water to get to the bilge, yes, it is cut through so you do not get a well when the prop seal leaks. Yep, did replace plastic shutoff valves, don't need them to break. My ladder on the stern is held in place with two straps that loop around the ladder and back to a snap on the enterence under the removable seat. This was a factory item, nothing I added, but it works good.
I have had mine on Lake Ontario for five years ('90 model) and because I am an engineer and have not learned how to not tinker, I have installed several items. First, a fuel tank gauge. How Hunter ever expected anyone to see how much fuel is in there, I don't know. Battery status board (digital) and a new three step battery charging control. These are mounted in the cabin next to the battery switch. I changed all instruments and added autopilot, wind, GPS (map, of course), on deck speaker for radio including remote mike. Also replaced the tape music system for a better sound system with digital disk. Down below, added new cabnets in the V birth area so my grandson has a place to put his "junk." In the master cabin, I removed the covering on the far wall and put in a cabnet to hold bed clothing. This works out real well because I don't want to go fliping cushions to find anything under the bedding. As far as the drain under the transmission, the crossbar has a whole that allows water to get to the bilge, yes, it is cut through so you do not get a well when the prop seal leaks. Yep, did replace plastic shutoff valves, don't need them to break. My ladder on the stern is held in place with two straps that loop around the ladder and back to a snap on the enterence under the removable seat. This was a factory item, nothing I added, but it works good.
Ladder & fans
Steve makes a very good point about the swim ladder -- someone in the water should be able to pull the ladder down without help. Still, you also don't want it flopping around, right? How about using a short bit of line with an eye in one end and a snap shackle on the other? Loop it around the ladder and stern pulpit, snapping the shackle to the eye. Attach a lanyard to the shackle that would trail in the water so that the shackle can be released..... As far as fans go, we got some very cheap portable fans that have big springy clamps so that they can be attached anywhere. They have standard DC cigarette lighter plugs. I installed DC outlets in the V-berth, salon and galley areas.
Steve makes a very good point about the swim ladder -- someone in the water should be able to pull the ladder down without help. Still, you also don't want it flopping around, right? How about using a short bit of line with an eye in one end and a snap shackle on the other? Loop it around the ladder and stern pulpit, snapping the shackle to the eye. Attach a lanyard to the shackle that would trail in the water so that the shackle can be released..... As far as fans go, we got some very cheap portable fans that have big springy clamps so that they can be attached anywhere. They have standard DC cigarette lighter plugs. I installed DC outlets in the V-berth, salon and galley areas.
Great stuff-My thanks to all. Keep it coming!
Everyone has made some good points, especially about the stern ladder. I'm thinking of something that would hold the ladder in place, but still allow a swimmer to pull on something and have the ladder drop down. I also need to work out better treads or steps. 1.5" round tubing does not make it for me! The Disco light bar is specific to the Visions. For those SOB's (Some Other Boat owners) unfamilar, it's a stylistic band of "cracked glass" plastic about 3" wide in 4 or 5 sections that outline the top of the big forward window. On my boat, it has it's own switch on the panel and when on, produces a nice warm light that spreads throughout the cabin. It also draws like 10-12 AMPS DC when on! I'm thinking of changing to (low wattage) halogen bulbs, maybe LEDs, SOMETHIING to lower the power draw. On the seacocks, my boat has metal ball valves. The shafts are quite small and because I did not have time to do a proper job, I did nothing. They look a bit scaggy (the usual blue-green corrosion) and a bit small in general (could they be 1/2"?) I'll wait till the boat is up here on the hard before I do anything... Thanks for your help!
Everyone has made some good points, especially about the stern ladder. I'm thinking of something that would hold the ladder in place, but still allow a swimmer to pull on something and have the ladder drop down. I also need to work out better treads or steps. 1.5" round tubing does not make it for me! The Disco light bar is specific to the Visions. For those SOB's (Some Other Boat owners) unfamilar, it's a stylistic band of "cracked glass" plastic about 3" wide in 4 or 5 sections that outline the top of the big forward window. On my boat, it has it's own switch on the panel and when on, produces a nice warm light that spreads throughout the cabin. It also draws like 10-12 AMPS DC when on! I'm thinking of changing to (low wattage) halogen bulbs, maybe LEDs, SOMETHIING to lower the power draw. On the seacocks, my boat has metal ball valves. The shafts are quite small and because I did not have time to do a proper job, I did nothing. They look a bit scaggy (the usual blue-green corrosion) and a bit small in general (could they be 1/2"?) I'll wait till the boat is up here on the hard before I do anything... Thanks for your help!
V32 stuff
I've only had mine for several months now and have questions to ask as well, but will do so in another thread... With that said..... 1. Mine has an alternator output meter. Nothing else though. 4. Yes, replaced them _all_ about a month ago now. I attempted to open the engine cooling intake seacock to start the engine after replacing the racor filter/water separator and the handle busted off. When I grabbed the little stub that was left, it just turned and turned. I ended up pulling the boat and replacing all seacocks and the head overboard discharge throughhull. Apparently the handle had broken off on that seacock years ago and instead of replacing the ball valve, the PO decided that rerouting the overboard discharge line from the holding tank and epoxying the thru-hull solid was a better - very nice. Not at all fun to replace that one given that my feet ended up in the air in order to get far enough into that locker to work! 5. I hope someone has, although there doesn't appear to be much to do so in there... mine drains pretty slowly into the bilge. 6. Factory looking piece of nylon webbing with a snap. 8. The disco light bar is cool!!
it is a hog though.... :-( good luck, matt
I've only had mine for several months now and have questions to ask as well, but will do so in another thread... With that said..... 1. Mine has an alternator output meter. Nothing else though. 4. Yes, replaced them _all_ about a month ago now. I attempted to open the engine cooling intake seacock to start the engine after replacing the racor filter/water separator and the handle busted off. When I grabbed the little stub that was left, it just turned and turned. I ended up pulling the boat and replacing all seacocks and the head overboard discharge throughhull. Apparently the handle had broken off on that seacock years ago and instead of replacing the ball valve, the PO decided that rerouting the overboard discharge line from the holding tank and epoxying the thru-hull solid was a better - very nice. Not at all fun to replace that one given that my feet ended up in the air in order to get far enough into that locker to work! 5. I hope someone has, although there doesn't appear to be much to do so in there... mine drains pretty slowly into the bilge. 6. Factory looking piece of nylon webbing with a snap. 8. The disco light bar is cool!!
it is a hog though.... :-( good luck, matt
Couple of things, Tom...
.. be sure the sail batten slides do not have the original nylon shackles. Also that the larger, 1 1/2" or so slides are fitted. If they are the nylon shackles, have a sailmaker replace them with webbing. It is really important that the batten slides can move without lots of sideforce being generated in order to have the sail raise and lower easily. Put a PSS dripless shaft seal in. Be sure the engine is aligned after you go back in the water. It makes a HUGE difference in noise and vibration. Clean or replace the mixing elbow. You will someday. If the boat was used in San Diego, it may have short engine runs which cause coking. Have the yard do a complete wax. Expensive, but they can do a better job in the yard than in the water. Now would be a good time to put a Y valve and through hull for overboard discharge. You'll love the boat! Rick D.
.. be sure the sail batten slides do not have the original nylon shackles. Also that the larger, 1 1/2" or so slides are fitted. If they are the nylon shackles, have a sailmaker replace them with webbing. It is really important that the batten slides can move without lots of sideforce being generated in order to have the sail raise and lower easily. Put a PSS dripless shaft seal in. Be sure the engine is aligned after you go back in the water. It makes a HUGE difference in noise and vibration. Clean or replace the mixing elbow. You will someday. If the boat was used in San Diego, it may have short engine runs which cause coking. Have the yard do a complete wax. Expensive, but they can do a better job in the yard than in the water. Now would be a good time to put a Y valve and through hull for overboard discharge. You'll love the boat! Rick D.
V32 sailors are the best! Thanks!
Thanks Rick, Matt, Doug, Bud & Steve- You all continue to be a big help with our new boat. Rick, I'm lucky that there is a PSS already installed & I'm pretty sure overboard discharge in in as well. The boat is very clean and well waxed, I just need to see what she's like when she shows up here in the bay area! I have the sales at the loft now, and yes, the main has largish plastic slides with webbing/braid connecting to the sail. One slide is broken and we are looking for a source. I've seen one on sailrite's page that looks close, but a search for "roger's captive super slide" (from the hunter glossy brochure) has proved fruitless. Maybe I'll call hunter & see what they say... Thanks Again! Tom
Thanks Rick, Matt, Doug, Bud & Steve- You all continue to be a big help with our new boat. Rick, I'm lucky that there is a PSS already installed & I'm pretty sure overboard discharge in in as well. The boat is very clean and well waxed, I just need to see what she's like when she shows up here in the bay area! I have the sales at the loft now, and yes, the main has largish plastic slides with webbing/braid connecting to the sail. One slide is broken and we are looking for a source. I've seen one on sailrite's page that looks close, but a search for "roger's captive super slide" (from the hunter glossy brochure) has proved fruitless. Maybe I'll call hunter & see what they say... Thanks Again! Tom
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