I bought an '80 H-36 with a 2 cy. Yanmar engine, 20 HP, (I think). There is a Racor filter mounted on the engine compartment wall. From there the fuel line runs to a small hand priming pump at the starboard bottom of the engine and then up to a small cylinder shaped cup. Is there another small filter on this engine which needs to be serviced? Where could I find some engine information and how to service it properly? Thanks in advance for any help. Richard
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Pat McCartin
Yanmars
Yes that cup shaped device on the upper left of the engine is a filter housing. Inside is a filter that gets changed. There are several Yanmar dealers on the web go to www.yanmar.com and find the distributer for LA. If you call them they will direct you to a local dealer who can help.
Yes that cup shaped device on the upper left of the engine is a filter housing. Inside is a filter that gets changed. There are several Yanmar dealers on the web go to www.yanmar.com and find the distributer for LA. If you call them they will direct you to a local dealer who can help.
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Paul Akers
Know Your Model First
Before you call Yanmar, find out what model you have. There should be an ID plate on the front of the engine that will tell you which model you have.
Before you call Yanmar, find out what model you have. There should be an ID plate on the front of the engine that will tell you which model you have.
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Pat McCartin
engine mounted filter
The filter element in the engine mounted filter is the same for all QM, GM, YM series engines. Part# 104500-55710
The filter element in the engine mounted filter is the same for all QM, GM, YM series engines. Part# 104500-55710
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Ed Schenck
Probably 2QM20.
Pat is correct with the filter part number. The "can" should have a ring with vertical slots near the top. Use a screwdriver and small hammer to tap the ring loose and again to tighten. Clean the can and refill with diesel to ease the bleeding process.
Pat is correct with the filter part number. The "can" should have a ring with vertical slots near the top. Use a screwdriver and small hammer to tap the ring loose and again to tighten. Clean the can and refill with diesel to ease the bleeding process.
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Richard Unglaube
Great information!
Thanks to all you kind sailors for giving me great advice. Would it be sufficient to fill the filter cup with clean diesel oil with a new filter, or is there an elaborate bleeding procedure to observe? Thanks
Thanks to all you kind sailors for giving me great advice. Would it be sufficient to fill the filter cup with clean diesel oil with a new filter, or is there an elaborate bleeding procedure to observe? Thanks
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Pat McCartin
Bleeding
Bleeding is no very involved. Refill the can with fresh fuel and reassemble. Next follow the the other line from the can to the engine. It leads to the injector pump. Where this line goes into the injector pump there is a banjo bolt with a screw in it, the screw will take a phillips or a 10 or 12 mm wrench(depending on model), loosen this screw. Next push on the lever on the small fuel pump mounted on the side of the engine. Oh have a paper towel wadded up to soak up any diesel that gets out. After a few pumps you'll get diesel without bubbles, tighten the screw, clean up and start the engine. Remember DON'T loosen the screw more than 2 turns and DON"T over tighten it when done. Others will have you bleed at the fuel filter, I don't endorse that, the screw on the injector pump is the last bleeder in the system. I've found that bleeding at the filter can cause you to buy a new housing after a few time. This is due to the steel screw in an aluminum housing.
Bleeding is no very involved. Refill the can with fresh fuel and reassemble. Next follow the the other line from the can to the engine. It leads to the injector pump. Where this line goes into the injector pump there is a banjo bolt with a screw in it, the screw will take a phillips or a 10 or 12 mm wrench(depending on model), loosen this screw. Next push on the lever on the small fuel pump mounted on the side of the engine. Oh have a paper towel wadded up to soak up any diesel that gets out. After a few pumps you'll get diesel without bubbles, tighten the screw, clean up and start the engine. Remember DON'T loosen the screw more than 2 turns and DON"T over tighten it when done. Others will have you bleed at the fuel filter, I don't endorse that, the screw on the injector pump is the last bleeder in the system. I've found that bleeding at the filter can cause you to buy a new housing after a few time. This is due to the steel screw in an aluminum housing.
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Ed Schenck
Bleeding.
Pat is right, you can over tighten the bleed valve on top of the filter can. But it is there for the purpose of bleeding. People over tighten because they fail to keep a supply of crush washers(#23418-060000), a little dime part so that you do not have to torque it down. I find it much easier to bleed with that screw. I finish up by bleeding at the injectors. I use an outboard can with a pump on the hose connected directly to the Racor. Instant pressure without messing with the handpump.
Pat is right, you can over tighten the bleed valve on top of the filter can. But it is there for the purpose of bleeding. People over tighten because they fail to keep a supply of crush washers(#23418-060000), a little dime part so that you do not have to torque it down. I find it much easier to bleed with that screw. I finish up by bleeding at the injectors. I use an outboard can with a pump on the hose connected directly to the Racor. Instant pressure without messing with the handpump.
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Gene Gruender
the no-bleed method
A few thoughts. Unless you run out of fuel, you should never have to bleed the high pressue (injector) side. Even if you start to run out, if you get it shut off quickly, you probably won't have to crack the injector side. If I am changing a filter I can usually get away without any bleeding at all. I've shocked a number of people who've been bleeding everything each time for years, when they see me change filters, then fire it up without any bleeding at all. Just fill the filters as much as you can with either diesel or ATF. It depends a bit on the filter housing you have but with my racor 200, I can fill the housing nearly to the top, set the filter, mounted in the top housing, onto the filter case,(slowly so that the filter element's air leaks out before sealing it) put the clamp on, then fire it up. No bleeding, no nothing. If you have a different filter type, it could be that you can't get the new filter in without getting a bit of air into the line. In that case just work your way from the filter to the injector pump. I always loosen the screw on top of the small filter on the engine, although I suppose you can get by without it. Pump the little handle on the fuel pump to pump fuel, and once it runs clean with no bubbles, tighten it and then bleed the one on the injector pump. A hint - the fuel pump works off a cam in the engine. If the engine has stopped with the arm of the fuel pump at the high spot on the lobe, each time you push the little pump handle, you get very little pumping action. Release the compression, then turn the motor over by hand (less than a turn) until you can tell you are gettng a much longer stroke on the fuel pump. (The cam has turned and the fuel pump lever can move much farther, doubling or maybe even quadrupling the amount of fuel each time you push it.) The point is to get the air out of the system without cranking it into the high pressure side. If you never get air into the system or get it out at the front end, you make the job sooo much easier. AND quicker, which might just save your hide one day. You may be able to help the situation by making sure that air doesn't get into the lines when you have the filter removed. If the lines leave the filter housing going down, the fuel shouldn't run out and air get in. You also may be able to shut off the fuel valve at the tank so that the fuel doesn't all suck back into the tank, leaving that whole line full of air. Each setup can be analyzed and improved if it is hard to keep the air out.
A few thoughts. Unless you run out of fuel, you should never have to bleed the high pressue (injector) side. Even if you start to run out, if you get it shut off quickly, you probably won't have to crack the injector side. If I am changing a filter I can usually get away without any bleeding at all. I've shocked a number of people who've been bleeding everything each time for years, when they see me change filters, then fire it up without any bleeding at all. Just fill the filters as much as you can with either diesel or ATF. It depends a bit on the filter housing you have but with my racor 200, I can fill the housing nearly to the top, set the filter, mounted in the top housing, onto the filter case,(slowly so that the filter element's air leaks out before sealing it) put the clamp on, then fire it up. No bleeding, no nothing. If you have a different filter type, it could be that you can't get the new filter in without getting a bit of air into the line. In that case just work your way from the filter to the injector pump. I always loosen the screw on top of the small filter on the engine, although I suppose you can get by without it. Pump the little handle on the fuel pump to pump fuel, and once it runs clean with no bubbles, tighten it and then bleed the one on the injector pump. A hint - the fuel pump works off a cam in the engine. If the engine has stopped with the arm of the fuel pump at the high spot on the lobe, each time you push the little pump handle, you get very little pumping action. Release the compression, then turn the motor over by hand (less than a turn) until you can tell you are gettng a much longer stroke on the fuel pump. (The cam has turned and the fuel pump lever can move much farther, doubling or maybe even quadrupling the amount of fuel each time you push it.) The point is to get the air out of the system without cranking it into the high pressure side. If you never get air into the system or get it out at the front end, you make the job sooo much easier. AND quicker, which might just save your hide one day. You may be able to help the situation by making sure that air doesn't get into the lines when you have the filter removed. If the lines leave the filter housing going down, the fuel shouldn't run out and air get in. You also may be able to shut off the fuel valve at the tank so that the fuel doesn't all suck back into the tank, leaving that whole line full of air. Each setup can be analyzed and improved if it is hard to keep the air out.
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