Hi all, My town offers a mooring permit for free(almost free=my tax), but I have to either rent a mooring spot at local marina(starts at $1300/season) or self-install a mooring kit? It would be cost much less if I do-it-myself. Is possible to self-install a mooring sytem? Where can I purchase a mooring sytem? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated!!! Jhxyz Huntington, New York
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mrbill4
And how are you going to install it? Link
get out that 3/4" wetsuit.... CHANCE Screw Anchors are installed into the harbor bottom by either work boats or divers using hydraulic rotary installing equipment with anti-torque devices. The bearing plates are installed through the silt to good bearing soils and the chains or lines are connected to the mooring or platforms above. The same anchors are used in the fast growing aqua-culture field holding fish cages securely to the ocean bottoms. -many of the ones I see in fla/islands are just Very large cement blocks w/ Eye's and chain/rope. (like 20,000#)
get out that 3/4" wetsuit.... CHANCE Screw Anchors are installed into the harbor bottom by either work boats or divers using hydraulic rotary installing equipment with anti-torque devices. The bearing plates are installed through the silt to good bearing soils and the chains or lines are connected to the mooring or platforms above. The same anchors are used in the fast growing aqua-culture field holding fish cages securely to the ocean bottoms. -many of the ones I see in fla/islands are just Very large cement blocks w/ Eye's and chain/rope. (like 20,000#)
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mrbill4
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Richard
DIY Moorage
I installed one this year in the lake that we boat in. Admittedly there is no current, there is a muddy bottom and the boat size is limited to 26 feet - but the concept may be of help. We took five gallon plastic pails, drilled holes in them for three pcs of 4 foot long re-bar in a star pattern (looking down from the top of the pail) ran the re-bar through the holes to form a ASTERIX pattern, made sure that we ran at least one piece of re-bar through a link of 2" chain that was inserted in the pail, filled the pail with cement (keeping the 19 of the 20' of chain out of the cement) and let it harden for 48 hours. They each weigh about 80 lbs. Three of these linked together (in a fan shape) chain with another 10 feet of 2"chain and then the anchor line make a fine moorage for upto a 26 foot boat in our lake (in 30 feet of water). The re-bar sinks into the mud and prevents dragging. And the whole mess buries itself in the mud as the wave and drag action work on it. We get the Boat Rescue guys to motor out with the concrete asterix pails and dump them overboard off the bow of the Rescue Boat (Bottle of Scotch in payment) and the whole mess dissapears nicely into the deep, with only the anchor line remaining. Works for us.
I installed one this year in the lake that we boat in. Admittedly there is no current, there is a muddy bottom and the boat size is limited to 26 feet - but the concept may be of help. We took five gallon plastic pails, drilled holes in them for three pcs of 4 foot long re-bar in a star pattern (looking down from the top of the pail) ran the re-bar through the holes to form a ASTERIX pattern, made sure that we ran at least one piece of re-bar through a link of 2" chain that was inserted in the pail, filled the pail with cement (keeping the 19 of the 20' of chain out of the cement) and let it harden for 48 hours. They each weigh about 80 lbs. Three of these linked together (in a fan shape) chain with another 10 feet of 2"chain and then the anchor line make a fine moorage for upto a 26 foot boat in our lake (in 30 feet of water). The re-bar sinks into the mud and prevents dragging. And the whole mess buries itself in the mud as the wave and drag action work on it. We get the Boat Rescue guys to motor out with the concrete asterix pails and dump them overboard off the bow of the Rescue Boat (Bottle of Scotch in payment) and the whole mess dissapears nicely into the deep, with only the anchor line remaining. Works for us.
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Steve Paul
Moorings
We use a single concrete block of one cubic yard for our buoy field. We use two for boats over 30'. They hold in our muck extremely well. The Army COre of Engineers won't let us drive screw or any other than pulling anchors. That is why we use the cheap and effective concrete block. We use a deck boat we've modified for a work boat with winch and A frame like used for auto motive engine pulling. It works fine. I have seen other references to Bruce anchors etc. along with the buoy on top and chain. Steve
We use a single concrete block of one cubic yard for our buoy field. We use two for boats over 30'. They hold in our muck extremely well. The Army COre of Engineers won't let us drive screw or any other than pulling anchors. That is why we use the cheap and effective concrete block. We use a deck boat we've modified for a work boat with winch and A frame like used for auto motive engine pulling. It works fine. I have seen other references to Bruce anchors etc. along with the buoy on top and chain. Steve
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jhxyz
DIY mooring
Thank you all for your reply! What's the recommended weight for cerment block with ocean current(Long Island sound)? My town has rule of removing all mooring system by end of october. Is there a easy way to pull these heavy cement blocks out from ocean? jhxyz
Thank you all for your reply! What's the recommended weight for cerment block with ocean current(Long Island sound)? My town has rule of removing all mooring system by end of october. Is there a easy way to pull these heavy cement blocks out from ocean? jhxyz
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Richard
We leave them there
Ours are left in place once they are dropped. We tie on some floats at various length below the surface and let them freeze into the ice. In spring you grab the boat hook and hook the anchor line.
Ours are left in place once they are dropped. We tie on some floats at various length below the surface and let them freeze into the ice. In spring you grab the boat hook and hook the anchor line.
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Stephen Paul
removing moorings
We unfortunately remove all of our buoys each year. We run a snake cable through each chain and let it drop to the bottom. Then in the Spring we reverse the process. Is there any way you can leave the weights and find a low float with a GPS etc? We use the work boat to move the concrete but almost never anymore. Could you use a Bruce anchor with a tip line so you can pull it out each Fall? Let us know how it goes. Steve
We unfortunately remove all of our buoys each year. We run a snake cable through each chain and let it drop to the bottom. Then in the Spring we reverse the process. Is there any way you can leave the weights and find a low float with a GPS etc? We use the work boat to move the concrete but almost never anymore. Could you use a Bruce anchor with a tip line so you can pull it out each Fall? Let us know how it goes. Steve
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jhxyz
leave the weights and find a low float with a GPS
Quote:"leave the weights and find a low float with a GPS etc?" This is a great suggestion. I am not sure how accurate/reliable is my GPS. Could you explain how you locate the low float and pull the snake wire back to surface in Spring? Quote:Could you use a Bruce anchor with a tip line so you can pull it out each Fall? Any reference link to Bruce anchor? Thank you very much for these tips!!! Jhxyz Huntington, NY
Quote:"leave the weights and find a low float with a GPS etc?" This is a great suggestion. I am not sure how accurate/reliable is my GPS. Could you explain how you locate the low float and pull the snake wire back to surface in Spring? Quote:Could you use a Bruce anchor with a tip line so you can pull it out each Fall? Any reference link to Bruce anchor? Thank you very much for these tips!!! Jhxyz Huntington, NY
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Stephen Paul
finding the low float with a GPS
I admit we have a leg up on you with our location. We are governed by the Indiana DNR, and the Army Core of Engineers. What we do is fasten the snake cable to a screw anchor we have on shore. We have a rather nice marina at www.lakemonroesailing.com if you want to see us. Bruce anchor is an especially well holding anchor that would bury itself in mud quite nicely. Could even send down 2 of them pulling in opposite directions. The trip wire (line) is used to pull the anchor out backwards if it appears fouled or not to come out. Using a much larger anchor than you would normally use might get the job done, then remove it when the time is up. A good bruce anchor is expensive but in the long run probably cheaper than a lot of alternatives. Is there a way to run a stainless or galvanized cable to shore, or to a point where you wouldn't lose it and could pick it up in the Spring. Remove the cable (end tied to anchor chain) and save it for next year. Let me know how you do. Search for "bruce anchor" or similar type of plow anchor. If you go with this, remember to set it well by pulling in reverse until it sets and won't let the boat move. By the way, I don't remember if you said but what is the water like where you would buoy? Fairly calm, high current, likely to whip up or somewhat protected? This might determine what you end up doing for a buoy. Steve
I admit we have a leg up on you with our location. We are governed by the Indiana DNR, and the Army Core of Engineers. What we do is fasten the snake cable to a screw anchor we have on shore. We have a rather nice marina at www.lakemonroesailing.com if you want to see us. Bruce anchor is an especially well holding anchor that would bury itself in mud quite nicely. Could even send down 2 of them pulling in opposite directions. The trip wire (line) is used to pull the anchor out backwards if it appears fouled or not to come out. Using a much larger anchor than you would normally use might get the job done, then remove it when the time is up. A good bruce anchor is expensive but in the long run probably cheaper than a lot of alternatives. Is there a way to run a stainless or galvanized cable to shore, or to a point where you wouldn't lose it and could pick it up in the Spring. Remove the cable (end tied to anchor chain) and save it for next year. Let me know how you do. Search for "bruce anchor" or similar type of plow anchor. If you go with this, remember to set it well by pulling in reverse until it sets and won't let the boat move. By the way, I don't remember if you said but what is the water like where you would buoy? Fairly calm, high current, likely to whip up or somewhat protected? This might determine what you end up doing for a buoy. Steve
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mrbill2
low floats
I have seen some 'unmarked' lobster traps with low bouys when diving. they are often referigerators, old hulls, or similar devices to give a home to wayward lobsters. the spot I saw was in about 40' of water, and the bouy was 10' below the surface. I guess the idea is to get to the general area w/ gps, then look with a fish finder. I would imagine a bouy suspended 10' below the surface would work for you, but would require diving to re-attach in the spring. (10' -depending on what size ships transit the area) what kind of bottom do you have? bruce is great in mud and sand. not so good in grass or rocks.
I have seen some 'unmarked' lobster traps with low bouys when diving. they are often referigerators, old hulls, or similar devices to give a home to wayward lobsters. the spot I saw was in about 40' of water, and the bouy was 10' below the surface. I guess the idea is to get to the general area w/ gps, then look with a fish finder. I would imagine a bouy suspended 10' below the surface would work for you, but would require diving to re-attach in the spring. (10' -depending on what size ships transit the area) what kind of bottom do you have? bruce is great in mud and sand. not so good in grass or rocks.
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Stephen Paul
Great advice mrbill2
That's what I was thinking too. Low submerged float, gps for general area and then fish finder. Wouldn't hurt to triangulate from shore until you catch on to finding it. Should work. Makes me think if there's a lot of this in the area, might be an idea for a small business. Perhaps a fisherman or two would take this on for a few bucks each Spring and Fall. Might be worth a small fee that you could arrive at. Just thinking. (And yes, it hurts) Steve
That's what I was thinking too. Low submerged float, gps for general area and then fish finder. Wouldn't hurt to triangulate from shore until you catch on to finding it. Should work. Makes me think if there's a lot of this in the area, might be an idea for a small business. Perhaps a fisherman or two would take this on for a few bucks each Spring and Fall. Might be worth a small fee that you could arrive at. Just thinking. (And yes, it hurts) Steve
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jhxyz
DIY mooring
RE:what kind of bottom do you have? I have no idea. We are located at Huntington, New York(Long Island Sound). I like Richard's idea(five gallon plastic pails)... How much weight do I need for Macgregor 26? Yes, there is some current in our bay.
RE:what kind of bottom do you have? I have no idea. We are located at Huntington, New York(Long Island Sound). I like Richard's idea(five gallon plastic pails)... How much weight do I need for Macgregor 26? Yes, there is some current in our bay.
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mrbill2
gotta know the bottom for mooring!
Without knowing what the bottoms like, you'll have poor luck with a mooring. (IMHO) mud would take a cement pail, as it'll sink over time. same for bruce.... with a hard bottom, the screw type would be best, but that will require a professional. a very large cement block (cubic yard at minimum) may work... -BUT, I'd sure hate to bet MY boat on a 80# bucket w/ rebar in a big storm... not sure but LI sound should get ocean storms, Right? I think we pretty much covered the options... If I were on a small lake the bucket sounds pretty good. If I were on a semi-exposed harbor, I think I'd hire a pro. unless of course you have great insurance and like to gamble.... best of luck.
Without knowing what the bottoms like, you'll have poor luck with a mooring. (IMHO) mud would take a cement pail, as it'll sink over time. same for bruce.... with a hard bottom, the screw type would be best, but that will require a professional. a very large cement block (cubic yard at minimum) may work... -BUT, I'd sure hate to bet MY boat on a 80# bucket w/ rebar in a big storm... not sure but LI sound should get ocean storms, Right? I think we pretty much covered the options... If I were on a small lake the bucket sounds pretty good. If I were on a semi-exposed harbor, I think I'd hire a pro. unless of course you have great insurance and like to gamble.... best of luck.
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mrbill
also
the weight of the mooring (cement) is really determined on the pull from wave action and wind. (and current) on fair days, a single cement block will probably work... if you're moored in a hurricane, the wind and waves will put a HUGE load on the mooring. (I'd want a 1960 caddy as my mooring. and some big chain.) later.
the weight of the mooring (cement) is really determined on the pull from wave action and wind. (and current) on fair days, a single cement block will probably work... if you're moored in a hurricane, the wind and waves will put a HUGE load on the mooring. (I'd want a 1960 caddy as my mooring. and some big chain.) later.
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mrbill
caddy
a buddy had a 1960 caddy in college, we took it to lake tahoe (from SF) in the fall, then it started snowing. You know you can go just as fast in the snow as in the dry, you just cant brake or turn.... lol! going thru donner pass, was probably the scariest ride I've ever had... (and I taught my girlfriend how to drive at age 15... a loooong time ago... but I still remember it too.) A N Y W A Y.... the load on the anchor is really about current, windage and waves. if you dont have any of above, just get a few CBS blocks
a buddy had a 1960 caddy in college, we took it to lake tahoe (from SF) in the fall, then it started snowing. You know you can go just as fast in the snow as in the dry, you just cant brake or turn.... lol! going thru donner pass, was probably the scariest ride I've ever had... (and I taught my girlfriend how to drive at age 15... a loooong time ago... but I still remember it too.) A N Y W A Y.... the load on the anchor is really about current, windage and waves. if you dont have any of above, just get a few CBS blocks
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Stephen Paul
DIY Mooring kit
JH, just finished taking out our buoy field yesterday. 70 buoys pulled and a snake cable of 3.4miles threaded through the shackles to find them again in the Spring. I took note that our snake cable is not new and has spent many winters on the bottom of our lake. THis cable is 1/4" and is plastic coated. We use cable clamps, always two at each loop. My thought is this: Why not use concrete blocks with cables attached to chains wrapped around each block. I don't know how many you need but I can see 5, 8, 10 blocks each with a chain and a cable coming to the surface. Connect all to a strong buoy eye and moore your boat. You can add more as needed and either pull them up one at a time or retrieve the cables and do it again next year. Now, this all depends on the bottom you are working with, I haven't seen the bottom notice from you. I think this will only work in a soft or mud bottom. Appreciate any suggestions to this idea. Of course it wouldn't be too hard to take a few blocks out and drop them over to find out how this works. If a mud bottom then the combination of weight and sinking into the bottom willl hold better than one would think. Should be relatively cheap system if you have time to do it. Steve Paul
JH, just finished taking out our buoy field yesterday. 70 buoys pulled and a snake cable of 3.4miles threaded through the shackles to find them again in the Spring. I took note that our snake cable is not new and has spent many winters on the bottom of our lake. THis cable is 1/4" and is plastic coated. We use cable clamps, always two at each loop. My thought is this: Why not use concrete blocks with cables attached to chains wrapped around each block. I don't know how many you need but I can see 5, 8, 10 blocks each with a chain and a cable coming to the surface. Connect all to a strong buoy eye and moore your boat. You can add more as needed and either pull them up one at a time or retrieve the cables and do it again next year. Now, this all depends on the bottom you are working with, I haven't seen the bottom notice from you. I think this will only work in a soft or mud bottom. Appreciate any suggestions to this idea. Of course it wouldn't be too hard to take a few blocks out and drop them over to find out how this works. If a mud bottom then the combination of weight and sinking into the bottom willl hold better than one would think. Should be relatively cheap system if you have time to do it. Steve Paul
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Greg Pecaut
Mushroom Anchor
Most commercial moorings are mushroom anchors with a length of heavy chain then a swivel then a lenght of lighter chain to the bouy. The chain is shakeled to the bottom of the bouy and the penants (rope that you put to the boat) comes off that same shakel. I set mooring as my spring job and pulled them in the fall to earn money for college. The length of the chains depends on the current, depth, wind conditions, wave conditions, and how crowded the mooring area is. A 250# mushroom can hold a 30 sail boat fine. Now your boat is probably smaller and lighter, so build your mushroom anchor. Try this, hit a couple of auto shops, or junck yards and get a 1)broken rear axel (from a rear wheel drive) 2)the worn out or broken drum that fits that axel, 3) The rusted bent or otherwise bad rim that fits that axel. Bolt them togeather and have a shop weld a loop on the end (inside end) of the axel. This is where you shakel (I prefer a swivel here too) your chain (the heavy one). Fill the drum and rim with concrete, (depending on the size wheel you got 13"-16.5") your anchor can weigh over 150#. Now for the heavy chain, get the biggest cheap chain you can find, try the shops again, and some of the places that buy scrap steel. The light chain should be 1/4-3/8 proof and new. It will rust out in time. Use a swivel to connect the two chains togeather. As for lenghts on the chains, well the longer the better. But this system with 2X depth of heavy chain and 1X depth of 1/4" hs held a 30' sail boat in 45K winds with no slippage on a sand bottom, and will hold even better in mud. I'm using a 16.5" set up I got all the parts for free and the welding done for a 6 pack of beer, I have 10' of 1" chain I got out of a junk yard (free) and 15' of 1/4" chain. I didn't have time to fill with concrete this year so it's not as heavy as I would like. It held my NewPort 23 with no problems and went through some 40K winds and 30K with 4' seas in Traverse Bay with no slippage. Total cost about $25. Oh I use 4' 3/8" pennants with an eye splied on each end (and a thimble at the shakel end) and a small foat (1/2 gallon milk bottle) to make catching the mooring easier. I'm moored in 10' of water, and it's too crowded to have a longer chain, but if you have the room it's better to have more heavy chain.
Most commercial moorings are mushroom anchors with a length of heavy chain then a swivel then a lenght of lighter chain to the bouy. The chain is shakeled to the bottom of the bouy and the penants (rope that you put to the boat) comes off that same shakel. I set mooring as my spring job and pulled them in the fall to earn money for college. The length of the chains depends on the current, depth, wind conditions, wave conditions, and how crowded the mooring area is. A 250# mushroom can hold a 30 sail boat fine. Now your boat is probably smaller and lighter, so build your mushroom anchor. Try this, hit a couple of auto shops, or junck yards and get a 1)broken rear axel (from a rear wheel drive) 2)the worn out or broken drum that fits that axel, 3) The rusted bent or otherwise bad rim that fits that axel. Bolt them togeather and have a shop weld a loop on the end (inside end) of the axel. This is where you shakel (I prefer a swivel here too) your chain (the heavy one). Fill the drum and rim with concrete, (depending on the size wheel you got 13"-16.5") your anchor can weigh over 150#. Now for the heavy chain, get the biggest cheap chain you can find, try the shops again, and some of the places that buy scrap steel. The light chain should be 1/4-3/8 proof and new. It will rust out in time. Use a swivel to connect the two chains togeather. As for lenghts on the chains, well the longer the better. But this system with 2X depth of heavy chain and 1X depth of 1/4" hs held a 30' sail boat in 45K winds with no slippage on a sand bottom, and will hold even better in mud. I'm using a 16.5" set up I got all the parts for free and the welding done for a 6 pack of beer, I have 10' of 1" chain I got out of a junk yard (free) and 15' of 1/4" chain. I didn't have time to fill with concrete this year so it's not as heavy as I would like. It held my NewPort 23 with no problems and went through some 40K winds and 30K with 4' seas in Traverse Bay with no slippage. Total cost about $25. Oh I use 4' 3/8" pennants with an eye splied on each end (and a thimble at the shakel end) and a small foat (1/2 gallon milk bottle) to make catching the mooring easier. I'm moored in 10' of water, and it's too crowded to have a longer chain, but if you have the room it's better to have more heavy chain.
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