When I bought our 1987 34 last spring I rec'd this extra sail. It says it's a 100 but not set up for roller furling. It sets under my bench by the firewood. We use the original which I think is a 130 or 150 on a roller furling. How much would it cost to get the piece sewed on so I can use the 100 and would it make any difference in handling? Would it at all help the weatherhelm issue? Or is it pretty close to no good. Havent even looked in the bag. Thanks. Craig
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
M
Mickey Goodman
Your Sail
Hi Craig: There is a market for used sails. Look in the back of sailing magazines for their address and telephone numbers. You should call a local sailmaker/repair shop to quote you on putting the luff tap as well as the UV cover. They could give you quote over the phone.
Hi Craig: There is a market for used sails. Look in the back of sailing magazines for their address and telephone numbers. You should call a local sailmaker/repair shop to quote you on putting the luff tap as well as the UV cover. They could give you quote over the phone.
C
Clyde Lichtenwalner
Don't give away
The Hunter 34 came from the factory with a 110% jib, non roller furling, as standard equipment. Of course, many owners replaced the factory jib with roller furling, and that's apparently what you commonly use. The extra sail is probably original factory equipment. You may have noticed that this is a very fast boat, but at a price - weather helm. It's very easy to find youself with too much sail. That means early reefing - both main and jib. I have no idea if your roller furling jib is set up for reefing, but at 15 knots apparent, if sailing close hauled, that jib should be reefed to 110% or less. Over 15 knots apparent, you should be reefing the main. As has been said many times at this site, the boat is actually slower, much slower, with its rail draging in the water and you fighting the helm to keep her from rounding up. You won't look as spectacular as surrounding boats sailing to weather with 150% jibs and heeled at 30 degrees, but you can enjoy the view as you pass them. I feel that the H-34 with 110% jib is an excellent compromise for leisurely use. Larger jibs -130% to 150%- are only worthwhile to weather in very light air. They come into their own as you fall off and are most useful with the wind at 90-150 degrees or so. But that is asymmetrical spinnaker territory. If the small jib is in decent shape, convert it for furling and consider using it when higher wind speeds are expected - perhaps spring and fall. It will help you keep control and will probably pull better to weather than a reefed 130%.
The Hunter 34 came from the factory with a 110% jib, non roller furling, as standard equipment. Of course, many owners replaced the factory jib with roller furling, and that's apparently what you commonly use. The extra sail is probably original factory equipment. You may have noticed that this is a very fast boat, but at a price - weather helm. It's very easy to find youself with too much sail. That means early reefing - both main and jib. I have no idea if your roller furling jib is set up for reefing, but at 15 knots apparent, if sailing close hauled, that jib should be reefed to 110% or less. Over 15 knots apparent, you should be reefing the main. As has been said many times at this site, the boat is actually slower, much slower, with its rail draging in the water and you fighting the helm to keep her from rounding up. You won't look as spectacular as surrounding boats sailing to weather with 150% jibs and heeled at 30 degrees, but you can enjoy the view as you pass them. I feel that the H-34 with 110% jib is an excellent compromise for leisurely use. Larger jibs -130% to 150%- are only worthwhile to weather in very light air. They come into their own as you fall off and are most useful with the wind at 90-150 degrees or so. But that is asymmetrical spinnaker territory. If the small jib is in decent shape, convert it for furling and consider using it when higher wind speeds are expected - perhaps spring and fall. It will help you keep control and will probably pull better to weather than a reefed 130%.
J
Jay Hill
What Clyde Said...
...is good advice. I still don't have roller furling on my H31, but have the factory 110% hanked jib I use constantly. It's great for heavier weather because it is actually heavier (sail cloth is thicker) and reduces weather helm in our normal 16+ knots of wind. I will eventually get a roller furling with a 120 or 130% jib. The difference in power gained between a 130% and 150% genoa at 16 knots is only 10% but weather helm is increased by 30+% (numbers apply to my boat.) Even after installing the roller furling, I will keep the 110% and have it modified to be a storm jib which slides on outside the rolled jib. If you sail in very much heavy weather, I'd keep the sail. If not, the main use for the headsail may be to supplement your Christmas fund. Jay
...is good advice. I still don't have roller furling on my H31, but have the factory 110% hanked jib I use constantly. It's great for heavier weather because it is actually heavier (sail cloth is thicker) and reduces weather helm in our normal 16+ knots of wind. I will eventually get a roller furling with a 120 or 130% jib. The difference in power gained between a 130% and 150% genoa at 16 knots is only 10% but weather helm is increased by 30+% (numbers apply to my boat.) Even after installing the roller furling, I will keep the 110% and have it modified to be a storm jib which slides on outside the rolled jib. If you sail in very much heavy weather, I'd keep the sail. If not, the main use for the headsail may be to supplement your Christmas fund. Jay
S
Scott Johnston
150/110/80
Our 34 came with a 150 genoa, 110 jib and an 80 kevlar? storm jib. We have yet to take the 80 out of the bag. At first we had the 150 on almost all the time, but the weather helm was outrageous (sp?). The boat is much better balanced with the 110. Next time we get in a light air downwind situation we are going to try to fly the 150 as a free flying genaker. From our perspective if it works well it will be easier than switching headsails on our furling unit. Will let you know how it works out. Scott. 83-H34 Island Hops
Our 34 came with a 150 genoa, 110 jib and an 80 kevlar? storm jib. We have yet to take the 80 out of the bag. At first we had the 150 on almost all the time, but the weather helm was outrageous (sp?). The boat is much better balanced with the 110. Next time we get in a light air downwind situation we are going to try to fly the 150 as a free flying genaker. From our perspective if it works well it will be easier than switching headsails on our furling unit. Will let you know how it works out. Scott. 83-H34 Island Hops
P
PJ
Keep the sail
I own a H34, 1984, that came with a 110 roller, 135 roller, and a 145 roller, and the original main. Since our intent was to race, I ordered a new Main & 155 set up to slide on the twin groove harken roller unit but not to furl. I use the old main and 145 to cruise and for racing the new 155, new main and the 135 as a #2 and the 110 as a #3. I do not use them in a roller capacity when racing. Reason is when the 155 goes on I have to drop the roller furling unit at the head of the sail down and out of the way. You probably should look at your mast rake & tunning if you are getting massive weather helm at 15knots true with a 135. Also check your back stay & tighten it up to reduce headstay sag, as well as flattening the main. Upwind with 15k true or aprox 20k appar. is about the max we fly a full main & 155, & we are at our designed heel of about 22 degrees. My polars show close hauled at true of 16k, 20 k appar., @ 32 degrees appar, with a speed of 6 k and heel at 22 degrees. 18-20k true is time to start shortening sail.I don't bother with the 145 as the step down is to insignificant for the time to do it and the sail was used alot by the previous owner and is baggy. Roller furling sails loose their shape/pulling power etc when you rollup past about 15 to 20 % points. Not saing you cann't make do vs changing a sail, its just their not as efficient. Have several sailmakers step on board & go for a sail so as to look at your sails under load. Pick their brains as to why their product is better than the competition & be sure to be specific about your goals, deep pocktets etc. and ask how they would move you into additional inventory. Then step back & review who is selling sails & who is looking out for you. One thing about adding UV protection to your sail on the foot & leach. The usual blue & brown etc are heavier material than a white UV protector cloth. The white will help sail shape in the liter winds. See if your sail maker knows that one, although on a 110 you won't be using it in lite winds. Hope this helps. BOL Sincerely PJ
I own a H34, 1984, that came with a 110 roller, 135 roller, and a 145 roller, and the original main. Since our intent was to race, I ordered a new Main & 155 set up to slide on the twin groove harken roller unit but not to furl. I use the old main and 145 to cruise and for racing the new 155, new main and the 135 as a #2 and the 110 as a #3. I do not use them in a roller capacity when racing. Reason is when the 155 goes on I have to drop the roller furling unit at the head of the sail down and out of the way. You probably should look at your mast rake & tunning if you are getting massive weather helm at 15knots true with a 135. Also check your back stay & tighten it up to reduce headstay sag, as well as flattening the main. Upwind with 15k true or aprox 20k appar. is about the max we fly a full main & 155, & we are at our designed heel of about 22 degrees. My polars show close hauled at true of 16k, 20 k appar., @ 32 degrees appar, with a speed of 6 k and heel at 22 degrees. 18-20k true is time to start shortening sail.I don't bother with the 145 as the step down is to insignificant for the time to do it and the sail was used alot by the previous owner and is baggy. Roller furling sails loose their shape/pulling power etc when you rollup past about 15 to 20 % points. Not saing you cann't make do vs changing a sail, its just their not as efficient. Have several sailmakers step on board & go for a sail so as to look at your sails under load. Pick their brains as to why their product is better than the competition & be sure to be specific about your goals, deep pocktets etc. and ask how they would move you into additional inventory. Then step back & review who is selling sails & who is looking out for you. One thing about adding UV protection to your sail on the foot & leach. The usual blue & brown etc are heavier material than a white UV protector cloth. The white will help sail shape in the liter winds. See if your sail maker knows that one, although on a 110 you won't be using it in lite winds. Hope this helps. BOL Sincerely PJ
A
ANDY
100 HEAD SAIL
CRAIG, i USE MY 100 ALL THE TIME AND I LOVE IT. BOAT HANDLES GREAT AND IS EASY TO USE. mINE IS ROLLER FURLEDAND EXPECT TO PAY ABOUT 150.00 TO HAVE IT CONVERTED ANDY
CRAIG, i USE MY 100 ALL THE TIME AND I LOVE IT. BOAT HANDLES GREAT AND IS EASY TO USE. mINE IS ROLLER FURLEDAND EXPECT TO PAY ABOUT 150.00 TO HAVE IT CONVERTED ANDY
- Status
- Not open for further replies.