Is my mast going to fall off ?

[loganmx107]

I recently purchased a 1963 i32 and can’t find a lot of info in it I know it’s had a new mast/sails and rigging in the past 3 years and there some rear tabbing work that needs to be addressed.I noticed the very thin bolts used to support the base plate and wanted to share some pics , also found a bent mount that holds my beam. My guess is they were too tight somewhere and it had to disperse the energy.Will post more pics tomorrow as I’m going to be going down to the marina. Any info helps ! it’s seems like all the rigging was relocated to be operated in one spot some of these are old pics the boat is looking a lot better now

 

[Leeward Rail]

Is there an islander specific website?
Apparently made by "wayfarer yacht" and designed by J. H. McGlasson (not Bob Perry like the more modern islander 32 mk 2)

Any islander oriented web forum/owners group will be MUCH more valuable for information, since they will know info specific to your boat, common problems/flaws etc.

 

[David in Sandusky]

The mast step is quite different, and interesting. Did, or can the prior owner tell you how it is supposed to function?

I wouldn’t by worried about the bolts holding the step in place. The force on the mast step with tuned rigging is almost entirely compression down. So this bolts look adequate to prevent movement fore/aft, or side to side.

While a few questions about your boat (like the mast step) may be model specific, most questions/problems with good old boats are actually the same. And solutions have to be fashioned from currently available sources. The folks here and at SBO can probably help you on many questions.

Not sure what you mean by “beam.” If you mean boom, and the mount is where it attaches to the mast, that is a critical problem. Pictures are always a big help.

Welcome aboard!

 

[loganmx107]

The mast step is quite different, and interesting. Did, or can the prior owner tell you how it is supposed to function?

I wouldn’t by worried about the bolts holding the step in place. The force on the mast step with tuned rigging is almost entirely compression down. So this bolts look adequate to prevent movement fore/aft, or side to side.

While a few questions about your boat (like the mast step) may be model specific, most questions/problems with good old boats are actually the same. And solutions have to be fashioned from currently available sources. The folks here and at SBO can probably help you on many questions.

Not sure what you mean by “beam.” If you mean boom, and the mount is where it attaches to the mast, that is a critical problem. Pictures are always a big help.

Welcome aboard!

Sorry auto corrected to beam , yes boom , should be the 4th or 5th picture !

 

[Leeward Rail]

While a few questions about your boat (like the mast step) may be model specific

My boat specific questions would be things like: Is there coring ? (Based on the age likely not) Is their places there the boat is know to have severe problems due to it's specific design that haven't been fixed correctly.


@loganmx107 since this is a new to you boat, I would check everything that could sink the boat. Through-hulls, hoses on through-hulls, old fuel and propane lines etc.
If the boat sinks, the salvage and pollution cleanup can easily bankrupt you.

My current boat was actively used by previous owners, and all the hoses were on the virge of failure,.in spite of the owners being experienced sailors. They just weren't good with the skills needed to maintain a boat. Don't trust the previous owners' work without checking it.

Based on your question, I suspect you are on the right path to answers.

Make buddies with some of your dock mates. You may find someone local who is invaluable showing you "the ropes"

 

[MikeHoncho]

The main sail furler bottom bracket looks diy’ed and is bent either due to failed driveway engineering or something landed on it. Either way it needs to be replaced but it looks like someone welded it together under the drum. Should be a lot of fun.

 

[dLj]

The main sail furler bottom bracket looks diy’ed and is bent either due to failed driveway engineering or something landed on it. Either way it needs to be replaced but it looks like someone welded it together under the drum. Should be a lot of fun.

@MikeHoncho Love the expression "driveway engineering"! Yes, that looks like it is poorly designed/constructed. That whole furler looks a bit questionable to me. Like the "driveway engineer" just took a foresail roller furler drum and tried to create a main sail furler. They sure did a lot of work to circumvent a well built system... Hard to imagine that mainsail can get a good shape sailing given that setup...

But you asked if the mast is going to fall down - we don't have enough photos/info to know - how are the chain plates? How are the attachments of all the standing rigging? What condition/size are all standing rigging? Questions are just beginning...

dj

 

[JBP-PA]

One more thing. The vertical pin attaching the boom to the gooseneck looks like it is upside down. The only thing holding it is the cotter pin which looks like it is about to fail.
The horizontal pin looks like it is missing a cotter pin.

 

[MikeHoncho]

@MikeHoncho Love the expression "driveway engineering"! Yes, that looks like it is poorly designed/constructed. That whole furler looks a bit questionable to me. Like the "driveway engineer" just took a foresail roller furler drum and tried to create a main sail furler. They sure did a lot of work to circumvent a well built system... Hard to imagine that mainsail can get a good shape sailing given that setup...

But you asked if the mast is going to fall down - we don't have enough photos/info to know - how are the chain plates? How are the attachments of all the standing rigging? What condition/size are all standing rigging? Questions are just beginning...

dj

I have no experience with mainsail furlers but the attachment to the mast seems minimal given the extreme forces the furler is going to experience and leverage. I haven’t been a huge fan of surveys but this might have been a very applicable situation for one.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I see nothing wrong with the mast base fasteners. Until you see movement between the plate and the deck or any sign of distress in the bolts, they should be fine.

The flanges on that boom attachment are too long for the loads. They have bent due to metal fatigue. Those long flanges are a big moment arm and the metal is too thin for the stresses. "Backyard engineering" is a great way to describe this assembly! No marine engineer put this thing together and no production boat builder would have sold the boat with these components. Check out the I-beam construction of the flange coming off the mast. That's why that component didn't bend. In any case, you could probably live with that boom fitting for awhile until the metal finally breaks (it will probably start to crack first, giving you some warning), but the external roller furling mainsail would probably be the first thing I would change about this rig.

 

[jssailem]

Looking at the first question, the mast in the images looks normal. The mast falling down is not really evident in the images. Areas to examine are

• the Shrouds,
• Stays,
• Chainplates,
• fittings on the mast that connect the shrouds, and stays,
• as well as the attachment points of the chain plates
• and the deck under the mast step.

The image of the gooseneck (boom to mast attachment) and the rigging for the main furler, may be what you really wanted to ask about. The design and current condition of the system causes me pause. It is that set up that I would seek to repair/replace. Do you really need a furling main? I note that in order to pull the furler taught the turnbuckle on the mast step is about a 1/4 inch from bottoming out. A SWAG on my part, the large (heavy) mast step was installed to address the need to tension the furler so that it would work.

I hope you got your boat for an inexpensive price.

You identified yourself as full of youthful energy and taking on a new exciting project. For that reason I suggest you talk with a professional rigger who has access to a good metal shop if you want to try and keep the main furler and current set up. I would not be heading out of Morro Bay with the boom and gooseneck in that condition. As was stated, the clevis pin on the bent goose neck is being held in place by a worn near failure cotter pin. That is a serious accident waiting to happen.

A good rigger may be able to help you modify and simplify the main sail set up. Toss the furler. Go with a simple sail on the mast and the loose foot on the boom. You could lighten the weight of the current gooseneck with a clean functional system.

That way you could safely get out of the bay and enjoy the reason to buy a sail boat. GO out sailing.

 

[dlochner]

CDI makes an external mainsail furling unit. The big advantage over in boom or in mast furlers is cost, it can be retrofitted to a standard mast. A better and more standard mounting has the furler attached to the mast above the goose neck. See the link below. The sail is necessarily loose footed and the boom is mounted to the mast with a goose neck fitting. Driveway engineering seems an apt description.

If this were my boat, I'd be inclined to get rid of the furler and put the original goose neck back on the mast. This will necessitate replacing the mainsail or adding slugs to allow use of the track. The main is likely old and blown out, so a new main would be a needed purchase.

Going back to a standard loose footed main attached to the mast will improve the boat's sailing characteristics. The sail area will be larger, more easily trimmed, and airflow over the sail will be improved without the interference from the furling unit.

Mainsail Furlers — Cruising Design International

www.sailcdi.com

 

[loganmx107]

Looking at the first question, the mast in the images looks normal. The mast falling down is not really evident in the images. Areas to examine are

• the Shrouds,
• Stays,
• Chainplates,
• fittings on the mast that connect the shrouds, and stays,
• as well as the attachment points of the chain plates
• and the deck under the mast step.

The image of the gooseneck (boom to mast attachment) and the rigging for the main furler, may be what you really wanted to ask about. The design and current condition of the system causes me pause. It is that set up that I would seek to repair/replace. Do you really need a furling main? I note that in order to pull the furler taught the turnbuckle on the mast step is about a 1/4 inch from bottoming out. A SWAG on my part, the large (heavy) mast step was installed to address the need to tension the furler so that it would work.

I hope you got your boat for an inexpensive price.

You identified yourself as full of youthful energy and taking on a new exciting project. For that reason I suggest you talk with a professional rigger who has access to a good metal shop if you want to try and keep the main furler and current set up. I would not be heading out of Morro Bay with the boom and gooseneck in that condition. As was stated, the clevis pin on the bent goose neck is being held in place by a worn near failure cotter pin. That is a serious accident waiting to happen.

A good rigger may be able to help you modify and simplify the main sail set up. Toss the furler. Go with a simple sail on the mast and the loose foot on the boom. You could lighten the weight of the current gooseneck with a clean functional system.

That way you could safely get out of the bay and enjoy the reason to buy a sail boat. GO out sailing.

I 100% agree ,
I do not plan on leaving the bay until I get the gooseneck straight, reinforced and put in a longer pin with new Cotter pins . I’m new to the sailing world and I don’t know the advantages and disadvantages of having a rolling main but the sails are in very good condition and I can pull it in and out the matter of seconds ! I purchased the boat for $2000 but this also came with a slip spot on the dock, engine is rough(no zink) but I compression tested it everything was on the high end of spec , currently pulling the head and doing the head gasket. Engine did run before I took it all apart . All chain plates are brass I believe and in good condition! wouldn’t go far until I get it out of the water and further inspect but I think within a few months of work I’ll be doing some day sailing soon! but updates as of today …had a diver inspect the bottom again , no signs of damage and I got a fresh zinc on my prop shaft ! also just found out I have a Triblade brass prop , the two ankers/chain and the prop alone almost reach the value I paid for this hunk of fiberglass but learning starts somewhere I guess !

 

[dlochner]

I 100% agree ,
I do not plan on leaving the bay until I get the gooseneck straight, reinforced and put in a longer pin with new Cotter pins . I’m new to the sailing world and I don’t know the advantages and disadvantages of having a rolling main but the sails are in very good condition and I can pull it in and out the matter of seconds ! I purchased the boat for $2000 but this also came with a slip spot on the dock, engine is rough(no zink) but I compression tested it everything was on the high end of spec , currently pulling the head and doing the head gasket. Engine did run before I took it all apart . All chain plates are brass I believe and in good condition! wouldn’t go far until I get it out of the water and further inspect but I think within a few months of work I’ll be doing some day sailing soon! but updates as of today …had a diver inspect the bottom again , no signs of damage and I got a fresh zinc on my prop shaft ! also just found out I have a Triblade brass prop , the two ankers/chain and the prop alone almost reach the value I paid for this hunk of fiberglass but learning starts somewhere I guess !

FYI, all of what your are referring to as brass is actually bronze. Brass in saltwater will corrode quickly.

 

[loganmx107]

Looking at the first question, the mast in the images looks normal. The mast falling down is not really evident in the images. Areas to examine are

• the Shrouds,
• Stays,
• Chainplates,
• fittings on the mast that connect the shrouds, and stays,
• as well as the attachment points of the chain plates
• and the deck under the mast step.

The image of the gooseneck (boom to mast attachment) and the rigging for the main furler, may be what you really wanted to ask about. The design and current condition of the system causes me pause. It is that set up that I would seek to repair/replace. Do you really need a furling main? I note that in order to pull the furler taught the turnbuckle on the mast step is about a 1/4 inch from bottoming out. A SWAG on my part, the large (heavy) mast step was installed to address the need to tension the furler so that it would work.

I hope you got your boat for an inexpensive price.

You identified yourself as full of youthful energy and taking on a new exciting project. For that reason I suggest you talk with a professional rigger who has access to a good metal shop if you want to try and keep the main furler and current set up. I would not be heading out of Morro Bay with the boom and gooseneck in that condition. As was stated, the clevis pin on the bent goose neck is being held in place by a worn near failure cotter pin. That is a serious accident waiting to happen.

A good rigger may be able to help you modify and simplify the main sail set up. Toss the furler. Go with a simple sail on the mast and the loose foot on the boom. You could lighten the weight of the current gooseneck with a clean functional system.

That way you could safely get out of the bay and enjoy the reason to buy a sail boat. GO out sailing.

I’ll post some more pictures today !

 

[loganmx107]

FYI, all of what your are referring to as brass is actually bronze. Brass in saltwater will corrode quickly.

That would make more sense lol , I was going off of pictures and the characteristics of the metal , I’ll post some more soon !

 

[loganmx107]

Looking at the first question, the mast in the images looks normal. The mast falling down is not really evident in the images. Areas to examine are

• the Shrouds,
• Stays,
• Chainplates,
• fittings on the mast that connect the shrouds, and stays,
• as well as the attachment points of the chain plates
• and the deck under the mast step.

The image of the gooseneck (boom to mast attachment) and the rigging for the main furler, may be what you really wanted to ask about. The design and current condition of the system causes me pause. It is that set up that I would seek to repair/replace. Do you really need a furling main? I note that in order to pull the furler taught the turnbuckle on the mast step is about a 1/4 inch from bottoming out. A SWAG on my part, the large (heavy) mast step was installed to address the need to tension the furler so that it would work.

I hope you got your boat for an inexpensive price.

You identified yourself as full of youthful energy and taking on a new exciting project. For that reason I suggest you talk with a professional rigger who has access to a good metal shop if you want to try and keep the main furler and current set up. I would not be heading out of Morro Bay with the boom and gooseneck in that condition. As was stated, the clevis pin on the bent goose neck is being held in place by a worn near failure cotter pin. That is a serious accident waiting to happen.

A good rigger may be able to help you modify and simplify the main sail set up. Toss the furler. Go with a simple sail on the mast and the loose foot on the boom. You could lighten the weight of the current gooseneck with a clean functional system.

That way you could safely get out of the bay and enjoy the reason to buy a sail boat. GO out sailing.

I 100% agree ,
I do not plan on leaving the bay until I get the gooseneck straight, reinforced and put in a longer pin with new Cotter pins . I’m new to the sailing world and I don’t know the advantages and disadvantages of having a rolling main but the sails are in very good condition and I can pull it in and out the matter of seconds ! I purchased the boat for $2000 but this also came with a slip spot on the dock, engine is rough(no zink) but I compression tested it everything was on the high end of spec , currently pulling the head and doing the head gasket. Engine did run before I took it all apart . All chain plates are bronze I believe and in good condition! wouldn’t go far until I get it out of the water and further inspect but I think within a few months of work I’ll be doing some day sailing soon! but updates as of today …had a diver inspect the bottom again , no signs of damage and I got a fresh zinc on my prop shaft ! also just found out I have a Triblade bronze prop ?the two ankers/chain and the prop alone almost reach the value I paid for this hunk of fiberglass but learning starts somewhere I guess !

 

[loganmx107]

I 100% agree ,
I do not plan on leaving the bay until I get the gooseneck straight, reinforced and put in a longer pin with new Cotter pins . I’m new to the sailing world and I don’t know the advantages and disadvantages of having a rolling main but the sails are in very good condition and I can pull it in and out the matter of seconds ! I purchased the boat for $2000 but this also came with a slip spot on the dock, engine is rough(no zink) but I compression tested it everything was on the high end of spec , currently pulling the head and doing the head gasket. Engine did run before I took it all apart . All chain plates are brass I believe and in good condition! wouldn’t go far until I get it out of the water and further inspect but I think within a few months of work I’ll be doing some day sailing soon! but updates as of today …had a diver inspect the bottom again , no signs of damage and I got a fresh zinc on my prop shaft ! also just found out I have a Triblade brass prop , the two ankers/chain and the prop alone almost reach the value I paid for this hunk of fiberglass but learning starts somewhere I guess !

Bronze “”””