My first link is badly corroded. The surveyor dinged me on it. The way it is setup now, the line is spliced onto the first link (corroded). He told me i needed to remove the first two link and have it respliced onto the chain. im no good at splicing and i dont wanna go through all the trouble to have it done. Can i just use a shackle and wire it shut or something? i could cut the link and remove it from the line, then insert a shackle. maybe i will weld it shut. I have a massive pair of bolt cutter--jaws of life like. i could remove it anytime.
Is it necessary to splice the anchor line onto the first link of chain?
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Should be no problem to use a shackle as long as there's a thimble in the rope eye. And wire the shackle as you said. Only problem would be if you have an anchor winch, the shackle might hang up on the winch. You can also use a split link for the chain connection, but be sure to use a thimble in the line eye.
I don't understand what you want to do. The rode is now spliced to your chain. If you cut the first link, how will you now attach the rode to the chain? You don't want to splice the rode to chain but you will need to splice an eye in the end of the rode to attach it any other way. How would you attach a shackle to the rode once you cut the link? Chuck
Do you have a windlass?
Otherwise, even a figure-8 knot on a bight with some webbing for chafe will do.
If yes, you must splice. Practice with a scrap. A chain splice is the easiest one. Honest, I stink at splices too, but find that one is easy. Or ask another sailor. It's a 5 minute job. Or get a book on knots and splices. Your going to need to re-do it every 2-3 years or so anyway.
Otherwise, even a figure-8 knot on a bight with some webbing for chafe will do.
Re: Do you have a windlass?
A chain splice is simply a back splice with the first link of chain under the crown knot. But you must splice if the line is large (1/2 inch or more) But an anchor bend with the tail seized will also serve if you aren't dealing with a windlass.
A chain splice is simply a back splice with the first link of chain under the crown knot. But you must splice if the line is large (1/2 inch or more) But an anchor bend with the tail seized will also serve if you aren't dealing with a windlass.
I'm with catsailor... if you have a windlass, with a chain/rope gypsy, then you really need to splice the rope directly to the chain. If you don't, the rode will not ride through the gypsy properly.
Brobins , Just get some hardware store hemp rope and practice splicing and some other rope work. A hundred feet if 1/4 inch costs less than ten bucks and will let you learn splicing, knoting and mat making.
OH! and get a splicing fid.
OH! and get a splicing fid.
brobins—
If your line is three-strand... here are directions.
If the rope is mega-plait (12 strand), use these directions instead.
If the rope is octo-plait, use this PDF.
If your line is three-strand... here are directions.
If the rope is mega-plait (12 strand), use these directions instead.
If the rope is octo-plait, use this PDF.
I've seen three classes of rope to chain splices described and used two of them.
First there is what I think of as the long backsplice. In this one strand of the rope is removed and the remaining two are spliced back into it. The advantage is that the splice is about the same diameter as the unspliced line. No less eminent a person than Brian Toss has claimed that you don't loose much strength if it is done correctly. I never believed him and don't recommend the method.
Second, there is the "short" backsplice which is recommended by many windless and rope manufactures. I used that method for years and it has worked well. It is well described in several posts above.
Third, there are methods of weaving the rope into a length of chain. I've seen several takes on this system. Some comb out the strands before reeving them though the chain and others do not and there is some difference in styles of lashing and tapering. The advantage in theory is that a splice done this way will retain a greater percentage of the lines strength and it will run easily into the rope/chain gypsy. Alain Poiraud (of spade anchor fame) argues strongly for this type of splice in his book and Brian Toss also recommends this style of splice. I've been using Alain Poiraud's method (http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html) for about a year now. It does run over the gypsy better than the back splices did. I don't know about the strength, but the theory is good...
In any event, I'm in the "you really ought to splice it" camp. If the splicing makes your brain hurt you can probably get somebody to help you with it...
--Tom.
First there is what I think of as the long backsplice. In this one strand of the rope is removed and the remaining two are spliced back into it. The advantage is that the splice is about the same diameter as the unspliced line. No less eminent a person than Brian Toss has claimed that you don't loose much strength if it is done correctly. I never believed him and don't recommend the method.
Second, there is the "short" backsplice which is recommended by many windless and rope manufactures. I used that method for years and it has worked well. It is well described in several posts above.
Third, there are methods of weaving the rope into a length of chain. I've seen several takes on this system. Some comb out the strands before reeving them though the chain and others do not and there is some difference in styles of lashing and tapering. The advantage in theory is that a splice done this way will retain a greater percentage of the lines strength and it will run easily into the rope/chain gypsy. Alain Poiraud (of spade anchor fame) argues strongly for this type of splice in his book and Brian Toss also recommends this style of splice. I've been using Alain Poiraud's method (http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html) for about a year now. It does run over the gypsy better than the back splices did. I don't know about the strength, but the theory is good...
In any event, I'm in the "you really ought to splice it" camp. If the splicing makes your brain hurt you can probably get somebody to help you with it...
--Tom.
WOW, t his is gettin complicated. i just want the easiest way out (yeah, yeah) for now. presently, the anchor rode is spliced onto the first link (maybe my terminology is incorect? the line is "braided" around the first link). no thimble on the rode/line. maybe i dont know the proper terminology-- the "line" is "affixed" around the link. there is no thimble in the line. Can't I just cut the link, remove it from the "loop" in the line, re-insert the shackle in place of the link and move on? basically its a line with a hole in the end that is presently around the link. the shackle can be opened and inserted into the same hole the link was in. so if i cut the link, open the shackle, insert the shackle, close the shackle, wire the shackle shut, THE END?
oh, i do not have a windless, although i will probably add a manual windless in the near future and eventually an electric. i do have an Ankarolina with a winch handle that i havent experienced yet, but i dont have much faith in it.
oh, i do not have a windless, although i will probably add a manual windless in the near future and eventually an electric. i do have an Ankarolina with a winch handle that i havent experienced yet, but i dont have much faith in it.
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Brobins, can you cleanly cut the first link SMOOTHLY so as to not snag any of the rope portion when you move it? Maybe use a Dremel tool for a smoother cut? The one problem you may encounter is that for any given size of chain, it is highly desired to use the next size shackle. 1/4, use 5/16, etc. Can you get a size larger shackle pin through the rope? The next item will be if the PIN is through the rope, than you can not have it through the chain. Either use a second shackle back-to-back (no good) or a double-ended "anchor rode shackle" or "mid link". Best idea would be to use this oportunity to just do an all-new splice.
This is a typical anchor-backsplice.
No, it really isn't a good idea.
A windlass is a good addition and makes retrieving the anchor a lot simpler. However, if you do anything other than a rope-to-chain splice, when you get the windlass, you'll have to remove it and put in a splice at that point.
I'd point out that the Ankarolina is a bit deceptive in its advertising IMHO. It says:
I'd point out that 5/8" three-strand has a breaking strength of 12,200 lbs. and 1" three-strand has a breaking strength of 29,400 lbs.—which is far greater than the webbing, which has a breaking strength of 5500 lbs. or so... The safe working load on 1" anchor line is close to the BREAKING strength of the Ankarolina webbing—so it is clearly not suitable as a replacement for 1" rope, despite what their ad says.
It is useful as a stern anchor or a lunch hook rode, but for any serious use, use rope—preferably an octo-plait rope with at least a boat length of chain.
Ok, i guess im gonna read up on splicing. i played with it 5 or 6 yrs ago, and it was fun. but i only have 2 or 3 days to do it! and so many other things to do. it looked like i could just insert the shackle and move on. maybe not.
also, my ankarolina is not even attached to my rode. The surveyor said i had "Excellent 5/8 "New England Brand" rode". brand new. and i have 60' of chain. he suggested a minimum of the the length of the boat, so i have 1.5 X. the first link is truly the only corroded link. wonder why? is it bc it is suffocated by the tight rode around it? or maybe its salty-wet all the time? i know nothing about this subject, but my local boat junk dealer has a whole 5 gallon bucket of s.s. chain for $75. good deal? bet i could walk in with a fifty and buy it. he doesnt know anything! or maybe he is a good boater soul? i get stuff new and used from him, usually pennies on the dollar. his shop stinks, mildew, nasty. junk everywhere, you gotta rummage but its worth it!
If you doubt your ability (as I would doubt mine), take the line & chain to a rigger or a marine supply. They should be able to preform this task for less than $40.
My gawd man, that boat is worth a lot more than that!
My gawd man, that boat is worth a lot more than that!
I had seen this test report some time ago and just came upon it again.
http://www.ussailing.org/safety/Studies/1994ropechainsplice.htm
http://www.ussailing.org/safety/Studies/1994ropechainsplice.htm
Probably because it is wet much of the time, due to the rode being attached to it
Stainless steel should NEVER BE USED FOR AN ANCHOR CHAIN. The welds are exceptionally subject to crevice corrosion and can fail without any warning signs under load.
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