Check the archives and web and can't get a definitive answer. Is acetone sufficient for dewaxing? Thanks!
Is Acetone a dewaxer?
- Thread starter deeman7777
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No
I got in an argument about this once and lost. I took a bit of car wax and tried to dissolve it in acetone. It won't dissolve.
I got in an argument about this once and lost. I took a bit of car wax and tried to dissolve it in acetone. It won't dissolve.
No
acetone is a remove all. it is fingernail polish remover. it will remove the poly, the enamel, and anything else. unless you are planning to strip the finish, i wouldn't use acetone.
acetone is a remove all. it is fingernail polish remover. it will remove the poly, the enamel, and anything else. unless you are planning to strip the finish, i wouldn't use acetone.
so....I need to use Acetone and a dewaxer?
Interesting answers. I am prepping my boat decks for a re-paint. Everwhere I read here indicates to wipe surface with acetone before sanding to get rid of the gunk. I also head to dewax the surface - now I know it's not the same. Is MEK a dewaxer??
Interesting answers. I am prepping my boat decks for a re-paint. Everwhere I read here indicates to wipe surface with acetone before sanding to get rid of the gunk. I also head to dewax the surface - now I know it's not the same. Is MEK a dewaxer??
dewaxer
I work on new boats getting them ready for their owners. The boats need to be dewaxed before they are saneded and bottom painted (and barrier coated) step one is acetone. that will just remove large particulates and dirt..it will also soften the hull mold wax, however the use of a "real" dewaxer such as Interlux "fiberglass solvent wash 202" is a must to remove everything.
I work on new boats getting them ready for their owners. The boats need to be dewaxed before they are saneded and bottom painted (and barrier coated) step one is acetone. that will just remove large particulates and dirt..it will also soften the hull mold wax, however the use of a "real" dewaxer such as Interlux "fiberglass solvent wash 202" is a must to remove everything.
dewax
Mike is correct. The Interlux product is excellent. Also, 3M dewaxer is very good, and West Marine has a thinner/dewaxer.
Mike is correct. The Interlux product is excellent. Also, 3M dewaxer is very good, and West Marine has a thinner/dewaxer.
Best stuff
I used to work in an auto restoration shop and have built and pianted many cars and bikes. I have always used paint prep Silcon Wax and Grease remover. This preps the surface for painting. It can be found at any store that has supplies for auto painting. Follow the directions, wipe with one clean rag and dry with another clean rag, rotating and changing rags often. By changing rags often you will not just be moving the gease around but actually cleaning.
I used to work in an auto restoration shop and have built and pianted many cars and bikes. I have always used paint prep Silcon Wax and Grease remover. This preps the surface for painting. It can be found at any store that has supplies for auto painting. Follow the directions, wipe with one clean rag and dry with another clean rag, rotating and changing rags often. By changing rags often you will not just be moving the gease around but actually cleaning.
In the paint world
In the paint world Acetone is not a good "dewaxer" as it dries too fast. One needs to "float" the contaminates and then wipe them from the surface with a clean towel. A slower evaporating solvent like Naptha works the best. There are several waterborne, not water based, the do a really good job. Keep the acetone for the resin residue, or tar and such, but for final prep waterborne is cool. It also has good anti-static properties and that really helps for fiberglass refinishing.
In the paint world Acetone is not a good "dewaxer" as it dries too fast. One needs to "float" the contaminates and then wipe them from the surface with a clean towel. A slower evaporating solvent like Naptha works the best. There are several waterborne, not water based, the do a really good job. Keep the acetone for the resin residue, or tar and such, but for final prep waterborne is cool. It also has good anti-static properties and that really helps for fiberglass refinishing.
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