Irwin Citation 34

[KK5RX]

I am considering purchasing a 1985 Citation 34 Shoal draft (4-ft 3-in) model.

One boat review in particular is causing me problems and has me questioning if its even worthwhile going ahead with the expense of a survey & haul out, is the review by Jack Hornor in the November 2000 issue of Spinsheets - Chesapeake Bay Sailing

"...the decks, on the other hand, are a different story. The deck and hull are joined on an inward flange with sheet metal screws through an extruded aluminum toe rail. There have been more than a few problems with the fit of the deck-to-hull joint, and leaks are a common problem that are difficult and expensive to repair due to inaccessibility.

Although some of the deck hardware is attached with nuts, bolts and washers, the lifeline stanchions, bow and stern rails are fastened with screws. This is not only unsafe, but loosening fittings allow water to penetrate the balsa core decks leading to very expensive repairs. Leaks around poorly fit windows and ports are also common but are more easily remedied."

The boat looks generally clean with no obvious signs of water damage.
However, this review is causing considerable angst.
What is the conventional wisdom on the Citation --- and the article by Jack Hornor?

 

[RikHall]

Get a survey - we love our Irwin Citation 34 - just had her a year and she is a great boat.

 

[Coconut Rhumb]

Jack Hornor review

I am considering purchasing a 1985 Citation 34 Shoal draft (4-ft 3-in) model.

One boat review in particular is causing me problems and has me questioning if its even worthwhile going ahead with the expense of a survey & haul out, is the review by Jack Hornor in the November 2000 issue of Spinsheets - Chesapeake Bay Sailing

"...the decks, on the other hand, are a different story. The deck and hull are joined on an inward flange with sheet metal screws through an extruded aluminum toe rail. There have been more than a few problems with the fit of the deck-to-hull joint, and leaks are a common problem that are difficult and expensive to repair due to inaccessibility.

Although some of the deck hardware is attached with nuts, bolts and washers, the lifeline stanchions, bow and stern rails are fastened with screws. This is not only unsafe, but loosening fittings allow water to penetrate the balsa core decks leading to very expensive repairs. Leaks around poorly fit windows and ports are also common but are more easily remedied."

The boat looks generally clean with no obvious signs of water damage.
However, this review is causing considerable angst.
What is the conventional wisdom on the Citation --- and the article by Jack Hornor?

I have read the article to which you refer. Unfortunately, Mr. Hornor has not done his homework. The screws you see only hold the bracket down. The real strength of the stanchions comes from the fact that the upright continues down below the bracket into a "socket" that is bored into the ash-wood framing. There are diagrams showing how this works at www.irwinyachts.com . Click on "Engineering", then "Hull Deck Joint & Stanchions".

You will also notice that the ash-wood framing is fiberglass encased, so that water cannot reach the balsa this way. That said, it is a good idea to rebed the hardware on any boat every few years.

Too bad Mr. Hornor didn't bother with a little research before publishing his "review". Bad information like this leaves an unfairly tainted impression on unsuspecting readers.

 

[jimford2158]

If you go ahead with the haulout, you can look it over yourself before you get a recommended surveyor. Do not rely on a website. At least ask someone at the boatyard and other sailboat owners like me don't mind answering pertinent questions if we have time. The main things to check are the bulkheads for rot and delamination of the fiberglas binding that holds them in place. Any standing water in the bilge(it came from somewhere!) Look inside the lower sowage areas for any water lines from flooding. See if the mast looks like it has settled into the deck, also the mast support under the deck and under the floor there will be a box that is under the mast support. I use a solid plastic screwdriver handle to tap on the fiberglas to listen for a hollow sound that would indicate the wood is rotted away. Other expensive items are engine and transmission, batteries, charging and electric systems, wiring for 110 should be stranded(very flexible), the sails and rigging and the top of the mast. Other important items are the thru hulls, the propellor bearings and the rudder bearings(easiest to fix while out of the water, before it sinks, LOL) It would be best to find out how long you can store on dry ground before you have the survey done so that if it does need repairs, they can be done at that time, with permission of the boat yard. I was pretty lucky with mine, it has not been as bad as I thought it would be, since a lot of stuff shows up afterwards. The surveyor missed a bunch of problems and added stuff to his report that it didn't have wrong with it. Also, a survey is only required for boat insurance, a good mechanic is a lot more handy.