I am in the process of a complete refit of my Irwin 37CC. I,ve owned her for 15 yrs. she has shown her good qualities many times doing this time and deserves this refit. I have added 2 more layers of glass on her bottom to the water line.This was expensive but as most of you know the later models were kind of thin on the bottom fiberglass layup. My Irwin is a 1981 model. The rig is down now and I want to add a block to the top of the main mast and mizzen mast as Tim from Victoria BC is doing. I also want to add a staysail that I can connect or disconnect as needed. Also I want to add a pedestal type post under the mainmast inside the boxed bulkhead,inside the front head.(like the mizzen has ). I havent had any deflection of the cabintop but I have seen a couple of boats that have this problem(not just Irwins). My questions are these. Is there anyone out there that has added a post under the mainmast,If so how did you do it. I think I have to take the post all the way down thru the head shower pan to the metal bar on the keel. Also when I add a staysail should I add running backstays to the rig to take care of the extra tension of the sail? I now have two large backstays on both sides of the hull from the main mast.One more question!Whew! Should I replace all the electric wires such as Spreader lights,anchor light and steaming light and coaxiel cable for the VHF While the rig is down? Whew! sorry to be so longwinded. TOM
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good questions/need more
Now I know why I never got a response when I asked how long the post should be. They weren't there from the factory! I have a post of two 2x4's and my deck sags. I thought, since both tanks were out, I could raise the floor. It didn't budge. So, you shouldn't have to go below the floor area. But you can put a post in, only I am not sure how long to make it. Obviously mine is too short, and I assume the PO replaced the factory post with the cheapest thing around. Now that I know, I will relace mine with a outdoor grade 4x4, after I jack the ceiling up til the door frame is somewhat more square than now. I'd replace everything, unless it looks OK. Even in fresh waters the copper will corrode (turn green) but only for a few inches in. I replaced all mine and didn't one of the wires come out somewhere along the line inside the mast? My '76 37'er has a four wire connector located at the base of the mast. One wireis ground. The other three are for the topmast, midmast, and spreaders. If the ground goes, so goes all three lights. On my next opportunity I am going to run a ground to all three lights, making them independent of each other. Actually I only need to add two wires. Keep in contact. I need some advise too. My winter to-do list is 43 lines long. tho52mas@netscape.net
Now I know why I never got a response when I asked how long the post should be. They weren't there from the factory! I have a post of two 2x4's and my deck sags. I thought, since both tanks were out, I could raise the floor. It didn't budge. So, you shouldn't have to go below the floor area. But you can put a post in, only I am not sure how long to make it. Obviously mine is too short, and I assume the PO replaced the factory post with the cheapest thing around. Now that I know, I will relace mine with a outdoor grade 4x4, after I jack the ceiling up til the door frame is somewhat more square than now. I'd replace everything, unless it looks OK. Even in fresh waters the copper will corrode (turn green) but only for a few inches in. I replaced all mine and didn't one of the wires come out somewhere along the line inside the mast? My '76 37'er has a four wire connector located at the base of the mast. One wireis ground. The other three are for the topmast, midmast, and spreaders. If the ground goes, so goes all three lights. On my next opportunity I am going to run a ground to all three lights, making them independent of each other. Actually I only need to add two wires. Keep in contact. I need some advise too. My winter to-do list is 43 lines long. tho52mas@netscape.net
Good ideas
Tom, Is your boat out of the water right now and if so is ther any chance of gettin a trace from the bottom of your rudder. I am looking at building a rudder extension and would like to try and fair a plug before I haul the boat this march. Then it would be a simple matter of glassing it on and blending it in. I need a trace of the bottom of the rudder to get the curves right along with a dimension for length and width ( please mark on the trace where the measurements were taken from. This will let me scale it up. This could be scanned and sent /posted or sent snail mail Tim
Tom, Is your boat out of the water right now and if so is ther any chance of gettin a trace from the bottom of your rudder. I am looking at building a rudder extension and would like to try and fair a plug before I haul the boat this march. Then it would be a simple matter of glassing it on and blending it in. I need a trace of the bottom of the rudder to get the curves right along with a dimension for length and width ( please mark on the trace where the measurements were taken from. This will let me scale it up. This could be scanned and sent /posted or sent snail mail Tim
37 CC refit
I appreciate the responses to my questions. TIM,the boat is out of the water and I will try to measure the total rudder,but without splining for offsets it may not be what you want,but I,ll try. The boat has just finished having the two layers of cloth added and it will go back inside soon for the finish(smooth) coat of epoxy so it may take some time before I Can measure the rudder(marinas are funny about people in their boat house).It may be after the weather breaks. TOM-H. Thanks for the response about the mast pedestal and replacing the wires. I was hoping I didn,t have to go thru the shower pan(makes it easier). My concerns about the wires were when I begin to pull another wire thru the mast I was scared they might be somehow tangled together inside the mast. I also have the same grounding system for the mast lights and plan to run another small ground wire from the engine under the salon and up to the mast. I am doing this the hard way because the grounding system has given me problems a few times before. The small 4 way connection is not adequate as far as I,am concerned so I will try to find a better connection system. I am also going to replace the coaxial connection. Again THANKS. TOM
I appreciate the responses to my questions. TIM,the boat is out of the water and I will try to measure the total rudder,but without splining for offsets it may not be what you want,but I,ll try. The boat has just finished having the two layers of cloth added and it will go back inside soon for the finish(smooth) coat of epoxy so it may take some time before I Can measure the rudder(marinas are funny about people in their boat house).It may be after the weather breaks. TOM-H. Thanks for the response about the mast pedestal and replacing the wires. I was hoping I didn,t have to go thru the shower pan(makes it easier). My concerns about the wires were when I begin to pull another wire thru the mast I was scared they might be somehow tangled together inside the mast. I also have the same grounding system for the mast lights and plan to run another small ground wire from the engine under the salon and up to the mast. I am doing this the hard way because the grounding system has given me problems a few times before. The small 4 way connection is not adequate as far as I,am concerned so I will try to find a better connection system. I am also going to replace the coaxial connection. Again THANKS. TOM
Running Backstays
I really got good responses to my questions about the ongoing refit of my 37 CC Ketch. As I wrote before, I plan on adding a staysail to the boat making her a cutter ketch. Does anyone feel that I need to add running backstays to take up the extra strain on the rig. The ketch rig has two separate backstays from the top of the mast down to both edges of the hull and a small stay from the top of the main mast back to the mizzen mast.Also the rear lower stays up to the spreaders will take some strain off the mast. I think these stays should be enought but I am a little worried about the distance fron the spreaders to the top of the mast. Does anyone have any recommendations? TOM
I really got good responses to my questions about the ongoing refit of my 37 CC Ketch. As I wrote before, I plan on adding a staysail to the boat making her a cutter ketch. Does anyone feel that I need to add running backstays to take up the extra strain on the rig. The ketch rig has two separate backstays from the top of the mast down to both edges of the hull and a small stay from the top of the main mast back to the mizzen mast.Also the rear lower stays up to the spreaders will take some strain off the mast. I think these stays should be enought but I am a little worried about the distance fron the spreaders to the top of the mast. Does anyone have any recommendations? TOM
emailaddress
My boat is out of the water. I can do a "Chapelle" of the bottom of the rudder. We need to exchange email address to comminicate better folks. I still do not have a measurement of the compression post (sometimes referred to as the pedestal) or the void where it would be. Any help here? And a new one..anyone have a capacity number for your waste/holding tank? Mine is 10 gallons and I plan to replace it with a 25 gallon. my email is tho52mas@netscape.net
My boat is out of the water. I can do a "Chapelle" of the bottom of the rudder. We need to exchange email address to comminicate better folks. I still do not have a measurement of the compression post (sometimes referred to as the pedestal) or the void where it would be. Any help here? And a new one..anyone have a capacity number for your waste/holding tank? Mine is 10 gallons and I plan to replace it with a 25 gallon. my email is tho52mas@netscape.net
E-Mail Address
Sorry! I thought my E-Mail Adfdress was listed on this forum. My E-Mail Address is TMT757@msn.com.
Sorry! I thought my E-Mail Adfdress was listed on this forum. My E-Mail Address is TMT757@msn.com.
37 CC refit/Bonding
Tom, I just added a bonding plate to the bottom of my 37CC where the old one used to be which was in the V-Berth area by the head. I went to GrayBar Electric and got a 3M 25T-BBE3 (1/2x 25') silver tinned copper braid with eyelets every three feet. I ran it from the plate to my engine block. The eyelets every three feet make it simple to add bonds where needed. Also my floor sags a little as well, I'm re-running the 12volt system and adding a panel above the engine cowling and I just had the shipyard here grind out flat spots and resupport the bottom from the outside using K-Core composite board and several layers of glass so I feel your pain... Hope this helps Jaye Kilburn S/V Knotty Ol Man" Electronics Tech Marine Spill Response Corp. Lake Charles, LA.
Tom, I just added a bonding plate to the bottom of my 37CC where the old one used to be which was in the V-Berth area by the head. I went to GrayBar Electric and got a 3M 25T-BBE3 (1/2x 25') silver tinned copper braid with eyelets every three feet. I ran it from the plate to my engine block. The eyelets every three feet make it simple to add bonds where needed. Also my floor sags a little as well, I'm re-running the 12volt system and adding a panel above the engine cowling and I just had the shipyard here grind out flat spots and resupport the bottom from the outside using K-Core composite board and several layers of glass so I feel your pain... Hope this helps Jaye Kilburn S/V Knotty Ol Man" Electronics Tech Marine Spill Response Corp. Lake Charles, LA.
Bonding Plate
During this 2 year refit I am adding a larger grounding/bonding plate to the bottom. It is my understanding that for Irwin to meet the requirements of the charter fleet the boats had to have all metal parts (mast,thru hulls,engine etc,)bonded together. It seems that all these items are bonded on my boat but the plate was tiny so I am replacing it with the largest grounding plate available. TOM
During this 2 year refit I am adding a larger grounding/bonding plate to the bottom. It is my understanding that for Irwin to meet the requirements of the charter fleet the boats had to have all metal parts (mast,thru hulls,engine etc,)bonded together. It seems that all these items are bonded on my boat but the plate was tiny so I am replacing it with the largest grounding plate available. TOM
Davits
Tom, I'm interested in the glass you added to the hull. How big of job was it and what results did you get? I am adding Atkins Holye davits this winter. I had a pair of Mk II davits that attached to the stern rail, but in a storm this past summer they just about tore the stern / dingy / stern rail off. The new davits attach to the transom with guys to the deck. They look great, but we found that the transom was not substantial enough (only 3/8" thick) and oil canned seriously when any load was put on it. So.... I have added 1/2" of plywood and 1/4" of glass to the stern. It was not a problem on the port side inside the lazarette - but we had to cut into the inner tub for access in our aft stateroom for the starboard side. Nothing moves now. I am also modifying the stern rail to provide a gate for access. Also the stern light is being moved to the lateral stablizing bar on the davits. If you have any pictures of your overhaul I'd love to see them (c.dhall@worldnet.att.net) David
Tom, I'm interested in the glass you added to the hull. How big of job was it and what results did you get? I am adding Atkins Holye davits this winter. I had a pair of Mk II davits that attached to the stern rail, but in a storm this past summer they just about tore the stern / dingy / stern rail off. The new davits attach to the transom with guys to the deck. They look great, but we found that the transom was not substantial enough (only 3/8" thick) and oil canned seriously when any load was put on it. So.... I have added 1/2" of plywood and 1/4" of glass to the stern. It was not a problem on the port side inside the lazarette - but we had to cut into the inner tub for access in our aft stateroom for the starboard side. Nothing moves now. I am also modifying the stern rail to provide a gate for access. Also the stern light is being moved to the lateral stablizing bar on the davits. If you have any pictures of your overhaul I'd love to see them (c.dhall@worldnet.att.net) David
A new voice with another 2 cents worth of comments
I've been away from the forum on my boat down in Mexico but I've done many of the things you talked about. I will send pictures to the E-mail addresses from your conversations. My Irwin 37 sloop is called a Barefoot because a Charter Co had it built in 1980 with some extra specs. Quest was upgraded in 90-93 after 10 Yrs in the charter trade and I have been upgrading her ever since. As i write Quest is on a trailer south of Portlamd Or. My E-mail address is svquest2@earthlink.net or jshirl671@aol.com Joe
I've been away from the forum on my boat down in Mexico but I've done many of the things you talked about. I will send pictures to the E-mail addresses from your conversations. My Irwin 37 sloop is called a Barefoot because a Charter Co had it built in 1980 with some extra specs. Quest was upgraded in 90-93 after 10 Yrs in the charter trade and I have been upgrading her ever since. As i write Quest is on a trailer south of Portlamd Or. My E-mail address is svquest2@earthlink.net or jshirl671@aol.com Joe
Compression Post space
Mcollins07: My main mast has been taken down during this refit and there doesn,t seem to be any easing of the shower pan with it down. When the mast was up I thought there may have been some compression of the pan but with the mast down there is not any re-expansion of the shower pan or the bulkhead upward, so for now I can only assume the mast is not compressing the bulkhead but I am still going to place extra strength in this area in case I have any problems later and you may be right about the 1/2 inch space under the bulkhead. If I notice any compressing in this area while replacing the mast I might go ahead and add a spacer under the bulkhead before the mast is tensioned.Thanks. This may be another oversite Irwin made when designing the boats. TOM from VA.
Mcollins07: My main mast has been taken down during this refit and there doesn,t seem to be any easing of the shower pan with it down. When the mast was up I thought there may have been some compression of the pan but with the mast down there is not any re-expansion of the shower pan or the bulkhead upward, so for now I can only assume the mast is not compressing the bulkhead but I am still going to place extra strength in this area in case I have any problems later and you may be right about the 1/2 inch space under the bulkhead. If I notice any compressing in this area while replacing the mast I might go ahead and add a spacer under the bulkhead before the mast is tensioned.Thanks. This may be another oversite Irwin made when designing the boats. TOM from VA.
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