Intermittent Windlass Problem

[Neil McDonald]

My 89 Hunter 35 is fitted with a Muir anchor windlass which operates intermittently. Very frustrating. It is controlled by two deck foot switches which have both been rebuilt now with clean contacts. When in the "not working" mode all that happens is that there is a distinct solenoid click but the windlass will not start. However if one foot switch is not operating then neither is the other!!!!

Below decks the foot switches are each connected to a dedicated high amperage solenoid. At first I suspected problems with the high amperage solenoids but realized that there was no chance of them both failing to operate at the identical time. So now I suspect a "flat spot" on the electric motor. Comments?

If it is a flat spot, is there any chance that a motor shop could repair it or is it inevitable that I must buy a new electric drive motor to have a reliable windlass?

 

[Mark Maulden]

I'm not sure I would chase a flat spot right off. Windlass motors don't really have a lot of hrs on them. A flat spot would be a commutator issue and I would think it would just be flat out flat and not so intermittent. With ur vintage, I would start at the electrical supply and work toward the windlass. There are some things that are unknown such as wire size and if al connections have been checked etc. if u really suspect the motor, find a way to put power to the motor directly. Unloaded, it won't draw a lot of power. If it is the motor, I would think a competent motor shop could fix it.

 

[mitiempo]

I agree with the above. I would first check connections of the heavy cabling to the windlass motor, both positive and negative, at each end. It is quite possible to have voltage present - as evidenced by the clicking of the solenoids - but not have enough current to turn the windlass motor.

 

[woodster]

check the ground connections that is the only wire that serves both solenoids at the same time

 

[Neil McDonald]

The answer seems to be to check the connections.

When I research how to do this with my regular (ie cheap) multimeter , I find "Contact resistance tests are normally performed using a micro/milli-ohmmeter or low resistance ohmmeter. "Ductor" was the name originally given to the low resistance ohmmeter manufactured by the Megger company, which became an industry standard."

Thoughts on how this amateur might test connections? What sort of resistance values might be acceptable if my meter would work? Or is resistance measurement not the best way to go?

 

[Steve Dion]

Neil:

Has this unit ever worked properly? Where is your power source in relation to the windlass (distance from batteries). Is there a proper sized wire to power the unit.

 

[Gunni]

Throw the windlass service disconnect, pull the windlass motor cover off, give everything that looks like an electric connection a good bath of WD-40 and try it again before you put the cover back on. If no, do it one more time for good luck.

 

[Bill Roosa]

You need to start at the beginning and walk through the circuit. since this is a high amp circuit I'd start at the batteries and just "follow the wires" . You can check the connection with a regular volt meter set to 1-10 volts but you will need a helper to press the foot switches for you. Probe across the connection with the two probes and hit the foot switch, should show 0.5ish volts max. anything over that and you need to clean and tighten the connection. Your problem connection will be showing almost full battery voltage BTW so there should not be much question when you find it. By "probing across the connection" I mean probe through the wire insulation on each side of the connection. What you are doing is measuring the voltage drop across the connection. anytime there is a voltage drop you are burning watts so you want a little voltage drop in the connections so it is all available for the motor.