Intermittent Start
- Thread starter knotcarin
- Start date
Check all of the connections (battery, ground, selector switch, starter etc). This issue is well documented in previous posts.
Steve is right on.. Many posts on this one and almost always a bad connection in the push connectors between the starter solenoid and the start switch. I think there are two multi pin connectors and the current is going out through them to the start switch and then back to the solenoid .. so in the circuit, you have two potential bad connections going to the switch and two going back to the solenoid. then the connections on the switch and solenoid themselves.. Do a search on Yanmar hard starting and you'll find a bunch of info..
I have the same boat and same engine. I also had the exact same problem. Checked all of the connections and they were all good. The connection at the starter solenoid would never get real tight, but it was a good connection. When it happened again, I switched to both batteries and it would fire up.
Then one time , (in the slip thank budda), it would not work at all. Turned out the post on the starter solenoid was striped and the nut would only grab on about 3 of the end threads. I stacked up some washers and re attached the cable to the solenoid post and Viola. After that cruise I pulled the started and had it and the solenoid rebuilt. No problems since.
Have you had any trouble with your bolts and nuts loosening around the mast deck ring?
Mike
Then one time , (in the slip thank budda), it would not work at all. Turned out the post on the starter solenoid was striped and the nut would only grab on about 3 of the end threads. I stacked up some washers and re attached the cable to the solenoid post and Viola. After that cruise I pulled the started and had it and the solenoid rebuilt. No problems since.
Have you had any trouble with your bolts and nuts loosening around the mast deck ring?
Mike
Hi Mr. carin, For sure check all the wires . I had the same problem you have ,I think . I have a push button to start , when I pushed all I would get is a click . Turned out the starter was going south . I have a Yanmar , Yan. wanted 750. for a new starter . I got mine completely rebuilt (there were multiple things wrong) cost was 250. If in fact you need a rebuild, and there is no shop in your area, my shop is Wayne Electric Long Beach Ca . talk to Mark . Good luck .
Beware push button starts, not only do they corrode and cause problems starting but also stick and burn out your starter (this is a fact). Best to replace them every few years.
On my last boat I had a start problem, turned out to be a corroded connection at the wiring harness and I had to jumper it.
If you have a system that has a long run wire to the started any corrosion can cause enough voltage drop to cause the engine to not start. It all depends on what the voltage in the battery is whether you can start the engine. If a solenoid relay located near the starter also any current will start the engine if the relay contacts are mostly clean.
On my last boat I had a start problem, turned out to be a corroded connection at the wiring harness and I had to jumper it.
If you have a system that has a long run wire to the started any corrosion can cause enough voltage drop to cause the engine to not start. It all depends on what the voltage in the battery is whether you can start the engine. If a solenoid relay located near the starter also any current will start the engine if the relay contacts are mostly clean.
Mark at Wayne Electric says the same thing about key starts ,( they corrode, they cause problems ). Lets face it if it's a chincy thing it's not going to last key or boutton. My push button is 30' yrs. old , works perfect . It's a Yanmar button. It helps if you have it in a water proof place .
adding relay
I had the same issue as many others have & have added a relay down close to the starter & has cured the issue & yes there are many posts about this issue
FWIW - I burned out my starter once when the start button stuck and replaced it with one of those aftermaker tractor starters for $80. People said it wouldn't last. That was 5 years ago now.
You'll solve this by installing a relay. No question about it. Just do it, and your problem will disappear. It will be sort of anticlimactic.
What I am REALLY writing about is the Lewmar shifter controls which are used in a lot of the larger boats.
They have a wonderful hidden option that nobody uses. It's a safety switch which ensures that the engine can only be started in neutral.
I'm not going to debate why I feel it is very important not to start your engine in gear, as I believe this is a goregone conclusion.
Wiring the switch is really easy, and it's worth looking in to
Attachments
Well, I did buy a new starter online, through Amazon from Rare Electrical. It was $128.00, roughly a third of the price of the Hitachi that came on the Yanmar.
If anyone decides to take the same route, be careful. Don't order based on their parts list. Send the Hitachi model number and they have the correct starter.
Now the bad news, for me anyway. She started right up, several times, at the dock. So I trusted that replacing the 19 year old started solved my problem. No so!
I took my kids and granddaughter sailing last Saturday.
When we neared MdR I turned the key. Nada!
About 20 tries later she turned over and all was well.
I'm going to buy a remote switch, its really a jumper between the hot cable and the solenoid. This will be an emergency back up.
I am also going to look into Artboas relay suggestion. A permanent solution is needed.
If anyone decides to take the same route, be careful. Don't order based on their parts list. Send the Hitachi model number and they have the correct starter.
Now the bad news, for me anyway. She started right up, several times, at the dock. So I trusted that replacing the 19 year old started solved my problem. No so!
I took my kids and granddaughter sailing last Saturday.
When we neared MdR I turned the key. Nada!
About 20 tries later she turned over and all was well.
I'm going to buy a remote switch, its really a jumper between the hot cable and the solenoid. This will be an emergency back up.
I am also going to look into Artboas relay suggestion. A permanent solution is needed.
I'm so glad to hear that I'm not the only 'nut behind the wheel'. I've been battling the same thing for a year. I have replaced the starter, switch, and starter button. Still has happened. Another place to check is if you have a connector ( I have 3) for the wiring harness from the engine to the controls. I finally cut out the connector, and ran the wires around it. I have some hope that the starting issue is clear. Another hint is that the idiot lights all started working. My issue was after I ran the engine to get out of the slip. It started perfectly every time when cold, but after a good warm up it wouldn't start. But of course that pattern didn't emerge till several attempts to use the motor to come BACK into the slip. I suspect that the outside connector was heating up and expanding. Therefore losing contact. I finally tested by starting and running for 15 minutes. Shut down and it would not restart. After cutting out the connector, I have been able to restart about 10 times in a row. Therefore my hope. It springs eternal.
I would recommend taking all the quick connects out of the engine buss wiring. Fixed my starting problem (going on three years now) and fixed some weirdness with my engine gages.
Had the same problem, the problem was the white wire from the starter button to the solenoid which runs through about 3 connecters. Solved it by running a heavier gauge white wire direct from the button to the solenoid on a shorter run, no real need to put in a relay.
Thanks everyone.
Yes, my "no start" condition only happens at the most inconvenient times.
I also have the 3 multi-connector set up. But I have a keyed starter system. No button to add to the confusion.
I'm going to give the remote start (hot wire with a button) to see if it will always start. That should prove that the direct, key to solenoid, will be the right fix.
Hmmm! Getting the idiot lights to work by bypassing the quick disconnects? What a wonderful thought.
And who decided to put idiot lights on a marine diesel, anyway?
Again, thanks to all!
Yes, my "no start" condition only happens at the most inconvenient times.
I also have the 3 multi-connector set up. But I have a keyed starter system. No button to add to the confusion.
I'm going to give the remote start (hot wire with a button) to see if it will always start. That should prove that the direct, key to solenoid, will be the right fix.
Hmmm! Getting the idiot lights to work by bypassing the quick disconnects? What a wonderful thought.
And who decided to put idiot lights on a marine diesel, anyway?
Again, thanks to all!
I am having similar issues with our Yanmar, that has been getting worse each week. To the point yesterday that I could not get the engine to turn over at all. I tested the voltage at the starter and it was full at 12.8 after a couple of attempts. I could feel heat from the red cable at the starter and I could always hear a click when I turned the key at the helm. It was draining the battery at each attempt.
Does this mean I have the same issue as everyone here, or is my issue that I need a new starter?
Does this mean I have the same issue as everyone here, or is my issue that I need a new starter?
I have the same issue with the click and the hot positive cable, but I can easily start by jumping the solenoid. I thought about all the above solutions, but decided to try to use the extra blue wire (for a saildrive I think) to double my effective wire gauge and reduce resistance. First to confirm the blue wire was continuous to the solenoid, I made it the sole wire from start button to the solenoid. It is now starting quicker than ever, but I haven't given it much of a trial. Will report back at the end of the week on how its working.
Had the same issue. Replaced everything including start button, key switch and the solenoid on the starter with no relief. Finally after reading a suggestion in this forum I ran a new No. 10 wire from the solenoid through the start button and key switch, bypassing all of the multi-connectors on the factory harness. Problem is gone. In my case it was the voltage drop caused by the old multi-connectors. No doubt, a relay, as suggested above, would also work. Voltage drop is affected by load and that solenoid draws a lot of current.