I have some water marks on some of the interior wood. I would like to sand them out, but then what? Stain - what stain do I use to match the wood around it? The boat is a 1981 Catalina 30. Cheers -Rob
Interior wood
- Thread starter Rob 1981 Cat 3019642
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A
AXEL
I did it....
I re-did all the counters in my C30 a couple of years ago. Frist, it's easy to get all the parts off the boat, everything unscrews. To get the trim off ***this is important, go to Home Depot and buy a Meiser drill of the correct dia. This drill will give you a very clean hole. Center it over the plug and drill. When you hit the screw, stop and use a screw driver. Later to replace, buy teak plugs (West Marine), glue them in, then us a razzor blade to trim close to flush, finnish with a sander. It comes out looking perfect. Another thing *****never glue formica to formica. Your asking for trouble. You'll end up with air bubbles for all your hard work. I found it was much easier to just make up new counters using the old ones as templetes. Interrior teak, I took it all out, used a 2 part teal cleaniner on it, and varnished. Varnishing is an art in it self. Sand between coats, I used Interlux poly.
I re-did all the counters in my C30 a couple of years ago. Frist, it's easy to get all the parts off the boat, everything unscrews. To get the trim off ***this is important, go to Home Depot and buy a Meiser drill of the correct dia. This drill will give you a very clean hole. Center it over the plug and drill. When you hit the screw, stop and use a screw driver. Later to replace, buy teak plugs (West Marine), glue them in, then us a razzor blade to trim close to flush, finnish with a sander. It comes out looking perfect. Another thing *****never glue formica to formica. Your asking for trouble. You'll end up with air bubbles for all your hard work. I found it was much easier to just make up new counters using the old ones as templetes. Interrior teak, I took it all out, used a 2 part teal cleaniner on it, and varnished. Varnishing is an art in it self. Sand between coats, I used Interlux poly.
Axel...
I was hoping to glue new formica onto the old formica. Is there any glue (contact cement) that would work? Can't I rough up the old formica? If I do new counters, I suppose you use marine plywood. But would it matter? I'm guessing that marine plywood is the only way to go. Thanks! -Rob
I was hoping to glue new formica onto the old formica. Is there any glue (contact cement) that would work? Can't I rough up the old formica? If I do new counters, I suppose you use marine plywood. But would it matter? I'm guessing that marine plywood is the only way to go. Thanks! -Rob
C
Clark
I was told a few years ago by a (house) . .
remodeler that getting new formica to stick to old was iffy. He said that you couldn't really rely on adhesion for the long term. Didn't seem right but we just cleaned the old and put a wax on it. Looked good enough for selling the house. Before I tried that, I'd do some at-home testing with scraps and various glues/cements. Good Luck!!
remodeler that getting new formica to stick to old was iffy. He said that you couldn't really rely on adhesion for the long term. Didn't seem right but we just cleaned the old and put a wax on it. Looked good enough for selling the house. Before I tried that, I'd do some at-home testing with scraps and various glues/cements. Good Luck!!
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AXEL
Rob, I wouldn't do it.
Rob, I really wouldn't take the chance. The old formica comes off the counters pretty easy. I keep the counter that's opposite the sink (island). After removing the formica, the wood was in good shape. When I took the old formica off the sink (island) that wood looked warped and moldy. I used a good quality plywood from Home Depot. It's no big deal to trace the original piece and cut a new one. I had a bad experience glueing a piece of teak veneer to the formica top of the salon table. After scrapping and roughing the hell out of it and using a solvent based adhesive I still got air pockets appearing several days/weeks later. Speaking from experience, I will never glue formica to formica again.
Rob, I really wouldn't take the chance. The old formica comes off the counters pretty easy. I keep the counter that's opposite the sink (island). After removing the formica, the wood was in good shape. When I took the old formica off the sink (island) that wood looked warped and moldy. I used a good quality plywood from Home Depot. It's no big deal to trace the original piece and cut a new one. I had a bad experience glueing a piece of teak veneer to the formica top of the salon table. After scrapping and roughing the hell out of it and using a solvent based adhesive I still got air pockets appearing several days/weeks later. Speaking from experience, I will never glue formica to formica again.
J
John
wood plugs ?
Hi guys to remove the teak plugs i like to use a fine thread dry wall screw Push the screw in with a screw gun slowley,when the fine thred screw hits the screw head below it breaks up into peaces and come right out.any small peaces left can be cut out with a small blade. If the plug splinters the rail on the way out try sandingto break the finish on top .Glue the plugs in with the finish and then saaaand and seal over. Dont use glue it can stain the wood before the finish.I think you can glue new formica to old, sand with 60 Grit let it dry good and stick it on .The counters are small it will stay on. John
Hi guys to remove the teak plugs i like to use a fine thread dry wall screw Push the screw in with a screw gun slowley,when the fine thred screw hits the screw head below it breaks up into peaces and come right out.any small peaces left can be cut out with a small blade. If the plug splinters the rail on the way out try sandingto break the finish on top .Glue the plugs in with the finish and then saaaand and seal over. Dont use glue it can stain the wood before the finish.I think you can glue new formica to old, sand with 60 Grit let it dry good and stick it on .The counters are small it will stay on. John
A
AXEL
Removing teak plugs....
The thing to remember when removing the teak plugs is that you are going to need a clean, sharp edged, perfectly shaped hole to re-plug.The problem using small drills or screws, then chipping away at the plugs is....when it comes time to drill and replug, you don't have enough wood for the drill to bite into. The drill will start to walk and now you've made a mess. I have a lot of experience doing this and I learned it the hard way. Take my advice, go to Home Depot, buy a Meiser drill, these drills will give you a very clean, sharp edged hole. Center the drill over the plug, drill till you hit the screw, then use a screw driver and remove it. Now you have a perfect hole to replug when your ready.
The thing to remember when removing the teak plugs is that you are going to need a clean, sharp edged, perfectly shaped hole to re-plug.The problem using small drills or screws, then chipping away at the plugs is....when it comes time to drill and replug, you don't have enough wood for the drill to bite into. The drill will start to walk and now you've made a mess. I have a lot of experience doing this and I learned it the hard way. Take my advice, go to Home Depot, buy a Meiser drill, these drills will give you a very clean, sharp edged hole. Center the drill over the plug, drill till you hit the screw, then use a screw driver and remove it. Now you have a perfect hole to replug when your ready.
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