Interior wood touch up - what stain was used

zeehag · Aug 7, 2009

Skipper said:
Am looking at refinishing some areas of interior wood. Head sink trim is faded, probably from sink water, and other interior areas a little faded from sun. Have no intention of varnishing.

Does anyone know what stain\finish was used (if any) on Catalina yachts in the early 90's?

-or-

How would you bring back the original color?

try teak oil--get it at home depot--is less expensive for the same stuff...

Chuckbear · Aug 8, 2009

Skipper, A lot of these stains, etc. were custom made for the manufacturers. I would suggest you remove a piece of wood and take it to the hardware store to match. Even then you will want to experiment with a piece of wood before applying it in the cabin. We have found teak stain that matches some quite nicely and Colonial Maple that works well in other areas. Chuck

Stu Jackson · Aug 8, 2009

Why not call Catalina Yachts and ask. Better yet, go to the C25 website, which covers (almost) your boat, too: http://www.catalina-capri-25s.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=13

Stu Jackson · Aug 8, 2009

Impatient, eh?

Then try this: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1108.0.html

Also, one of these days folks will begin to understand that the telephone still exists and will stop getting frustrated when their emails don't get answered.

Not YOU, because you did call, but many other don't.

wonkodsane · Aug 8, 2009

Stu Jackson said:
Then try this: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1108.0.html

Also, one of these days folks will begin to understand that the telephone still exists and will stop getting frustrated when their emails don't get answered.

Not YOU, because you did call, but many other don't.

Except that any supplier who gives multiple points of contact absolutely must answer them. If you don't want to correspond with your clients via email, then don't have an email address. As a supplier, dealer, or service shop, your job is to make your customers' lives easier, if you can't do that as part of your set of core competencies, then you don't deserve to stay in business. Rig-rite, I am looking at you, here.

Ross · Aug 8, 2009

When I need to absolutely match a stain I go to a local artist's supply store and buy some oil paint pigments. Each is a true color. I then blend them on a sheet of glass to get the color I need and work from there. I use glass because they won't soak into the glass as they might/will with wood.

Pocahontas · Aug 8, 2009

wood stains are fairly easily mixed and matched
you have to make sure that they have the same base (water or spirituous) and then mix away
you could try for color on a sheet of teak laminate since that would be a lot cheaper then hardwood mark your mixing rate, then when you feel you have an approximate finish oil the surface (or spit on it) and compare the colors to the one in your cabin
I did this several times with a lot of different mixtures lined up next to each other the more defined your pallet the truer your mix
good luck

llvan · Jan 25, 2010

Polyshade Natural Cherry carried by Ace Hardware. $14 online. A definate match. I used it on my Catalina 27 and it was a perfect match.

Ross · Jan 25, 2010

Polyshades is a urethane varnish type finish. Oil pigments and Watco teak oiul will serve just fine.

dennism · Jan 25, 2010

Constantines in Ft Lauderdale have been serving the carpentry and furniture refinishing trades for many years. I'm a bit out of touch with them, but back when I did this stuff, they had a great catalog, with some guidance included.

On pre-finished wood, such as you have, I'd probably rub it down carefully with 0000 steel wool, then blend in some color using an alcohol stain, so as to penetrate the surface and not raise the wood grain.

When the color is right, they have padding lacquers you can use to seal in the new stain, and then you can refinish with whatever surface finish that, er....floats your boat! 8^).

www.constantines.com is the place to start. Dennis Martin

Marco Garcia · Jan 25, 2010

Not Catalina but here are the instructions on teak care by hunter.

Stu Jackson · Jan 25, 2010

I would strongly urge you to never use steel wool on a boat. Bronze wool is fine. Steel rusts.

Patrick17430 · Jan 25, 2010

I used steel wool once to clean rust off my life lines. Ill never do that again. A year later I'm still finding rust spots on the deck from the wool that are near impossible to remove.

stephen Penny · Jan 25, 2010

Consider lightly sanding and varnishing the interior walls. Key is to color match the interior. Some older sailboats may have a combination of cetol, teak oil and varnish on them. That requires stripping, sanding, bleaching, sealing and varnishing them. Since you do not want to varnish the interior consider a home cabinet refinisher who does not strip or varnish. I used one on my home cabinets several years ago. They are very low cost, fast (< 1 day), looks great, removes water damage and lasts 10+ years.

sailingdog · Jan 25, 2010

Instead of using steel wool, bronze wool or scotch brite pads are far better choices... no rust pox from the tiny piece of steel shedding...

maxxx · Jan 26, 2010

I'm about to reoil the interior of my oday28 and am going to try Watco. Anybody had any experiance with it???

Ross · Jan 26, 2010

maxxx said:
I'm about to reoil the interior of my oday28 and am going to try Watco. Anybody had any experiance with it???

I have been using the watco oil for many years starting back when it was called Varithane penetrating oil/sealer. Follow the directions. DON'T leave any puddles! You can use it as you wet sand with very fine sand paper.
Steel wool has no place on a boat or on oak that may get wet. You will get iron staining.

Edit to add: Dispose of the rags outside, spread out, to dry and do not wad them up and toss them into a corner. They will catch fire spontaneously .

Interior wood touch up - what stain was used

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