Interior hull lining

C

clinton_edmonds

.
Oct 30, 2019
67
The vinyl-foam sandwich, interior insulation in my 1979 Vega (3326)
has separated from the hull in many places. A sticky pink residue
remains on the hull and on the back of the insulation. I have not been
able to remove it or harden it and thus I cannot use any new adhesive
to effectively re-attach the insulation. Has anyone experienced and
resolved a similar problem?

Any information would be much appreciated. I have been working on this
on and off for two years without success.

Many thanks,

Clint Edmonds,
 
P

pjacobs55

.
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
Cliff:
I replaced mine with an indoor/outdoor type mildew-proof carpet. It
turned out really well, but the glue I used smelled pretty strong for
about 3 months :-(
I'd use a water-based adhesive that is as odorless as possible if I had
to do it again.

All the woodwork was removed for varnishing, so the job was easier. The
old glue had to be scraped off with an old wood chisel ... not a
pleasant job and some of it refused to budge.

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
S

SVFlyAway

.
Oct 31, 2019
303
I am in the same process of replacing the foam panels. However I am not
going to glue a liner to the hull, as I prefer a more traditional look. I am
installing a wooden ceiling as in traditional boat building. I have done
this on a boat years ago and the result is great. It is a little more work
than gluing material to the hull, but it is well worth it.(NOTE: before I
get flamed on this, on a boat the ceiling is any covering on the surface
between the floorboards and the deck, it is not the cabin top - on wooden
boats they are wood slats screwed to the interior of the frames).

To do this I am first cleaning the residual glue gunk of fthe hull, then I
am epoxying thin vertical strips of wood the hull every foot or so. These
are thin so they will take the bend. Once these are bonded, I am going to
screw thin slats of wood to these verticals, spacing them apart a quarter
into or so. These will be pre-varnished. I plan on using a very light color
wood for this since the interior seems to dark to me already. This allows
the hull to breath and eliminates mildew. I had these on a boat I owned
years ago and it really made the boat look like a million dollars - it
should as this is the technique used on many yachts.


_____

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of clinton_edmonds
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 8:16 AM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: Interior hull lining
 
C

clinton_edmonds

.
Oct 30, 2019
67
Thank you for the information Chris. i can visualise how good it
would look. Please tell me if you have discovered how to remove from
the hull, the glue that held the foam.

Clint
 
V

vega1860

.
Apr 28, 2000
691
I also put a wood slat ceiling in Lealea. Getting the old glue off
is a chore; lots of scraping and sanding. Never did get it all off.
One advantage to the wood slat approach is that the inside of the
hull does not need to be completely smooth. I used 1/2 inch plywood
strips (Doing it again I'd use 3/4) epoxied to the hull vertically
onto which I screwed 1/4 inch X 2 inch white oak slats. I had to use
a grinder to prep the surface for the vertical stringers. For
insulation, I put 1/4 inch foam sheeting cut to fit between the
vertical stringers and glued them with waterproof contact cement at
the top only. The quarter-sawn oak slats are really nice looking.

I put some pictures of the work in progress in the photos section
under "Dinette Conversion" (Don't ask why there)

Aloha,

Chuck Rose
SV Lealea, V1860
Honolulu

Albin Vega - The American Vega Association Home

Albin Vega - American Vega Association. Vega 27 sailing, cruising, living aboard, maintenance, repairs, events, information.
americanvega.org

At 09:09 AM 3/6/2007, you wrote:
 
A

alan_critchlow

.
Nov 2, 2003
198
The reason for the headliner is to cut down on condensation. We
replaced ours with 6mm 1/4" closed cell foam covered with a vinyl
upholstery material. It cleans easily and looks great. I figured that
if the glue is so hard to get off I would leave it and glue right over
it. I used contact cement with forced ventilation. My dads friend had
a small explosion while working with contact cement. Needless to say
do not smoke while working with contact cement. I do not like
carpeting as it attracts odors and is hard to clean.

Alan Critchlow
V1639 Voila
 
V

vegatern

.
Oct 2, 2005
465
By pure chance last night I came across a reference to your
question in an old AVA newsletter. The author used a vinyl sheet
bonded to quarter inch foam. The supplier was G & T Industries, They
apparently are suppliers to the Bayliner Company. The adhesive for
the foam was Seabond 1010 from Midwest General Corp., Harper Woods,
MI. He used a bit more than 15 yards of vinyl and a gallon of adhesive.
Craig Tern #1519
 
C

clinton_edmonds

.
Oct 30, 2019
67
Craig,

Thanks for the response. i have just joined this group although i have owned two Vegas since 1977. I am so impressed by the helpful and pleasant attitude of the members. The group will be a regular 'favorite' on my computer from here on in.

Clint

vegatern vegatern@... wrote:
By pure chance last night I came across a reference to your
question in an old AVA newsletter. The author used a vinyl sheet
bonded to quarter inch foam. The supplier was G & T Industries, They
apparently are suppliers to the Bayliner Company. The adhesive for
the foam was Seabond 1010 from Midwest General Corp., Harper Woods,
MI. He used a bit more than 15 yards of vinyl and a gallon of adhesive.
Craig Tern #1519
 
C

clinton_edmonds

.
Oct 30, 2019
67
Thanks Alan,

I have treid gluing over the residue of the old adhesive on the hull but have found that it does not stay. Of course, this was the original problem causing my insulation to peel off. Thanks for the heads-up on the contact cement - sounds like a way to get a cheap 'high' as well,

Clint

alan_critchlow alan.critchlow@... wrote:
The reason for the headliner is to cut down on condensation. We
replaced ours with 6mm 1/4" closed cell foam covered with a vinyl
upholstery material. It cleans easily and looks great. I figured that
if the glue is so hard to get off I would leave it and glue right over
it. I used contact cement with forced ventilation. My dads friend had
a small explosion while working with contact cement. Needless to say
do not smoke while working with contact cement. I do not like
carpeting as it attracts odors and is hard to clean.

Alan Critchlow
V1639 Voila
 
C

clinton_edmonds

.
Oct 30, 2019
67
Chuck,

Thanks for your helpful reply. I might just follow your approach. Would 3/4 ply be pliant enough to fit the hull shape in the focsle, do you think? Thanks also for a second benefit from your reply. It is 20 degrees below this morning with snow on the ground and the very mention of Honolulu was a tonic.
Clint
Chuck Rose chuck@... wrote:
I also put a wood slat ceiling in Lealea. Getting the old glue off
is a chore; lots of scraping and sanding. Never did get it all off.
One advantage to the wood slat approach is that the inside of the
hull does not need to be completely smooth. I used 1/2 inch plywood
strips (Doing it again I'd use 3/4) epoxied to the hull vertically
onto which I screwed 1/4 inch X 2 inch white oak slats. I had to use
a grinder to prep the surface for the vertical stringers. For
insulation, I put 1/4 inch foam sheeting cut to fit between the
vertical stringers and glued them with waterproof contact cement at
the top only. The quarter-sawn oak slats are really nice looking.

I put some pictures of the work in progress in the photos section
under "Dinette Conversion" (Don't ask why there)

Aloha,

Chuck Rose
SV Lealea, V1860
Honolulu

Albin Vega - The American Vega Association Home

Albin Vega - American Vega Association. Vega 27 sailing, cruising, living aboard, maintenance, repairs, events, information.
americanvega.org

At 09:09 AM 3/6/2007, you wrote:
 
C

cedricbaele

.
Mar 23, 2005
66
Concerning hull lining, I'll put my two cents' worth.

What we used on on our Vega was 1/4" cork. I bought a huge roll of it
for cheap ($150 covered all the hull and then some). As we are
liveaboards, it's nice to have that extra insulation and looks really
nice too. We have it in the V-berth sides and all hull sides above the
waterline (looks particularly nice in the shelves). So far we've
survived the winter with just a small 1500W space heater and we get
the cabin up to 80F if we want to.

To remove the glue, I had to sand it with an angle grinder with 36
grit. We then glued the cork with some Sikaflex I bought on Ebay (a
case of 12 for $10!) After the cork was installed, we put on a simple
coat of varnish to make it easier to clean.

For the cork, you can buy rolls of it online or even your local carpet
store.

Cedric and Melissa
V-2941 Lyra
Charleston, SC
 
T

trevy_kins

.
Oct 31, 2019
230
I too am very interested to know if anyone has figured out a good way to
remove the glue used to attach the original foam-backed hull liner.
Thanks, Trevor (Mystic Rose V2915)
________________________________

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of vegatern
Sent: March 6, 2007 11:29 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: Interior hull liningBy pure chance last night I came across a reference to your
question in an old AVA newsletter. The author used a vinyl sheet
bonded to quarter inch foam. The supplier was G & T Industries, They
apparently are suppliers to the Bayliner Company. The adhesive for
the foam was Seabond 1010 from Midwest General Corp., Harper Woods,
MI. He used a bit more than 15 yards of vinyl and a gallon of adhesive.
Craig Tern #1519
 
P

pjacobs55

.
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
On my particular boat, exposed to Pacific NW climate conditions for
it's entire life, the original glue was still quite pliable in most
places. Maybe boats from hotter climates have a different problem, so
my advice/opinion may not be valid for those cases.

I still maintain the best way to remove the guck is elbow grease:
scrape it with a sharp 3/4" wood chisel, some of your favorite music,
and heavy leather work gloves. It peels away in strips, leaving a
sticky surface on the hull. Using the narrow chisel is easier than
trying to force a wider one under the glue.

My attempts to grind it off with 40 grit only aggravated the
situation, as this heated up the glue and simply made an even bigger
mess.

There are adhesive cleaners on the market if you need to get right
down to the bare surface. Some are dangerous and smelly.

On my boat the disintegration of the foam backing on the vinyl was
the cause of the ceiling peeling off. I'd hesitate to replace it with
anything that has a similar backing.

Hope this helps,
Peter.
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
V

vega2055

.
Oct 31, 2019
23
Hi All,
Where I sail it can't get cold at night espacially in
spring and fall and i live aboard as long as I can so
I had to get rid of the vinyl because the condensation
in the morning had drip from the side to the matress
and it was soak .I took out the vinyl sand everything
that was underneat,glue & foam,bought planks of
Liptus; a african wood That is much cheaper than teak
but as beautyfull and install it.The matress does'nt
touch the hull anymore so it stays dry.It gives the
interior warmth.If you want more details dont hesitate
to ask.I sent pictures to.

Fairwinds

Patrice
vega2055
 
V

vega1860

.
Apr 28, 2000
691
Clint,

You will have to use a circular saw to cut "Kerfs" in the plywood
strips. Set the saw for a depth of cut of 1/2 inch and make
horizontal cuts every three inches or so for the length of the 3/4
inch thick strip. Make the strips about an inch wide. With the
kerfs on the side away from the hull, the strips will easily bend to
conform to the curvature. The slats 1/4 inch thick will bend
easily. Leave 1/8 inch between the slats for a traditional look and
ease of fitting. I wrote an article in the newsletter with full
details of the project a while back but I can't remember now which
issue. Anyway, I think there's enough information here now on this
thread for you to do the job. BTW, the slats were quarter-sawn from
a two by twelve white oak plank. I chose the white oak for the color
and the grain. I wanted to lighten up the interior. (Then Laura
surprised me while I was away on a business trip by staining and
varnishing them to match the sapele.)

Aloha,

Chuck

At 02:50 AM 3/7/2007, you wrote:
 
V

vega1860

.
Apr 28, 2000
691
My boat, on the other hand, purchased new in 1974 in Hawaii, the glue
was mostly dust. The remaining hard patches required a grinder to remove.

Chuck

At 07:03 AM 3/7/2007, you wrote:
 
B

bv0820

.
Jun 24, 2003
66
i used cedar 2 X4 and ripped to slate sizes..used in V-berth. used flexible
pvc tubing for vertical.

Bob Vogel
Laughing Gull
Port Salerno, FL
 
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