I have an 84 Hunter 27 and want to redo the interior, the boat broke off its mooring in Salem harbor last winter and suffered some hull damage and water intrusion on the wood and I have hated the interior anyway so why not, does anyone have any good plans or pictures they can post or send?
Interior Help Needed
- Thread starter BradG
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Helpful: one stong back and NO arthritis!
Hi Brad, We've got some photos in the Cherubini forum on our 37 c which we dismantled. We're now in the process of putting it all back together. Last week we purchased the teak plywood and will begin tracing, cutting and installing. I'll be going to pick up the teak and holly this friday. Check back from time to time and we will continue to post recent photos of our renovation. I can tell you it's not an easy task but if you're set on doing it you might as well begin ripping it apart. Once an owner gets it in their head they want something there's no turning back. Good luck! Laurie and TJ
Hi Brad, We've got some photos in the Cherubini forum on our 37 c which we dismantled. We're now in the process of putting it all back together. Last week we purchased the teak plywood and will begin tracing, cutting and installing. I'll be going to pick up the teak and holly this friday. Check back from time to time and we will continue to post recent photos of our renovation. I can tell you it's not an easy task but if you're set on doing it you might as well begin ripping it apart. Once an owner gets it in their head they want something there's no turning back. Good luck! Laurie and TJ
interior sole
I have a 78 Hunter 30. The sole is looking warn. I'm buying the hardwood flooring, 3/8" plywood with a mahagohny veneer and another thats very light colored. going to rip the light colored into 1/2" strips and laminate between the darker colored. I ripped the darker so each piece is 1 1/2". So I still have the tung n grove. It's beautiful. Water proofing the back side with appoxy. Putting a few extra coats of Poly on the surface. I think its much better than the teak n holly thats way to expensive anyways..
I have a 78 Hunter 30. The sole is looking warn. I'm buying the hardwood flooring, 3/8" plywood with a mahagohny veneer and another thats very light colored. going to rip the light colored into 1/2" strips and laminate between the darker colored. I ripped the darker so each piece is 1 1/2". So I still have the tung n grove. It's beautiful. Water proofing the back side with appoxy. Putting a few extra coats of Poly on the surface. I think its much better than the teak n holly thats way to expensive anyways..
Plastic?
I know teak is traditional, but that plywood (teak-holly)is seems cheap (like in not so good) to me. Ive been thinking about using this plastic "floating" flooring. Sorry, dont know the brand name, but it comes in 2' lenghts and is at least 4" wide and only an 1/8" thick or so. One end and one side have a couple of inches of adhisive tape that receives the next piece. My thought is to apply with double sided tape on to my sole. My boat didn't have a wood sole, just fiberglass. Teak ply = $200 plastic $50
I know teak is traditional, but that plywood (teak-holly)is seems cheap (like in not so good) to me. Ive been thinking about using this plastic "floating" flooring. Sorry, dont know the brand name, but it comes in 2' lenghts and is at least 4" wide and only an 1/8" thick or so. One end and one side have a couple of inches of adhisive tape that receives the next piece. My thought is to apply with double sided tape on to my sole. My boat didn't have a wood sole, just fiberglass. Teak ply = $200 plastic $50
Plastic Lumber
Check out Plastic Lumber, search Google. I am looking at doing just what you are and I was amazed to find that Recycled High Density Polyethelene comes in all shapes and sizes of regular lumber. And for high loading stress areas they are even filling the plastic with Fiberglass to strengthen it. I saw lots of color choices, including weathered and not weathered teak. The stuff isn't slippery when wet either. I'm going to use it for my cabin sole and my cockpit sole. The stuff is maintenence free and very stain resistant. How cool is that!
Check out Plastic Lumber, search Google. I am looking at doing just what you are and I was amazed to find that Recycled High Density Polyethelene comes in all shapes and sizes of regular lumber. And for high loading stress areas they are even filling the plastic with Fiberglass to strengthen it. I saw lots of color choices, including weathered and not weathered teak. The stuff isn't slippery when wet either. I'm going to use it for my cabin sole and my cockpit sole. The stuff is maintenence free and very stain resistant. How cool is that!
Brad, you might want to take a look at this link.
I had the folks at PlasTeak send me a sample and I love it. It comes in "rolls" 6' wide and runs $45/linear foot. Think vinyl flooring in an old kitchen but this stuff really looks like a teak & holly sole. It just glues down like vinly kitchen flooring <g>. Certainly a lot less work than ripping up the old sole and replacing it.
I had the folks at PlasTeak send me a sample and I love it. It comes in "rolls" 6' wide and runs $45/linear foot. Think vinyl flooring in an old kitchen but this stuff really looks like a teak & holly sole. It just glues down like vinly kitchen flooring <g>. Certainly a lot less work than ripping up the old sole and replacing it.
floor changes
How are you handling the molded in fiberglass changes that roll throughout the floor, I know were my bilge boards are there is a divider and the floor slopes and rolls all over the damn place.
How are you handling the molded in fiberglass changes that roll throughout the floor, I know were my bilge boards are there is a divider and the floor slopes and rolls all over the damn place.
Cork?
That stuff I thought was plastic is vinyl. Your point about the radius around the bildge is a good one, I guess you would have to stop it before the radius starts or make the radius's into sharp corners with epoxy. (never mind, way to much work) The slopes headed into the head would have to be cut joint as tight as you could get it. I'm at a disadvantage because my boat just had the white gelcoat, & Im not sure how the factory handled the teak originaly. The 1960's Tartan's had cork flooring in them. Its not traditional but seems practical. Any one heard of this being used?
That stuff I thought was plastic is vinyl. Your point about the radius around the bildge is a good one, I guess you would have to stop it before the radius starts or make the radius's into sharp corners with epoxy. (never mind, way to much work) The slopes headed into the head would have to be cut joint as tight as you could get it. I'm at a disadvantage because my boat just had the white gelcoat, & Im not sure how the factory handled the teak originaly. The 1960's Tartan's had cork flooring in them. Its not traditional but seems practical. Any one heard of this being used?
Hunter 37
Laurie, I saw your pictures of your torn apart 37. Are you going to change the plan. I am looking at a 37 Hunter that is in need of total rehab. Is it worth it ? Tom
Laurie, I saw your pictures of your torn apart 37. Are you going to change the plan. I am looking at a 37 Hunter that is in need of total rehab. Is it worth it ? Tom
Sole teak and holly floor
Hey Tom, Just saw this post. We took the weekend doing the flooring in our 37c. It looks fabulous! Tj pre-cut all the peices from the old ones using them as templates. We laid each peice out trying to maximize the wood with plenty of leftover for misc needs. We will make paper templates for all those 37 c owners wanting to attempt this project. If anyone wants to contact us directly for information don't hesitate lwauletta@comcast.net We can talk you through most situations if you need the help or ideas on what you want to change within your boat. The coolest idea we had was to make pvc gutters under the toe rail once we've re-bedded and sealed all the screws/ bolts on the toe rail. I am so tired of water collecting in the v/berth and once the new floor is down I'll be darned if one drop of moisture ruins any of this work we're doing. BTW re-doing the floor for the 37c takes three sheets of anything whether it be plasteak or real T&H. The real looks great and I figure restoring a boat to it's original design is somehow the correct thing to do...classic! Laurie
Hey Tom, Just saw this post. We took the weekend doing the flooring in our 37c. It looks fabulous! Tj pre-cut all the peices from the old ones using them as templates. We laid each peice out trying to maximize the wood with plenty of leftover for misc needs. We will make paper templates for all those 37 c owners wanting to attempt this project. If anyone wants to contact us directly for information don't hesitate lwauletta@comcast.net We can talk you through most situations if you need the help or ideas on what you want to change within your boat. The coolest idea we had was to make pvc gutters under the toe rail once we've re-bedded and sealed all the screws/ bolts on the toe rail. I am so tired of water collecting in the v/berth and once the new floor is down I'll be darned if one drop of moisture ruins any of this work we're doing. BTW re-doing the floor for the 37c takes three sheets of anything whether it be plasteak or real T&H. The real looks great and I figure restoring a boat to it's original design is somehow the correct thing to do...classic! Laurie
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