Installing Turnbuckles

[JMonda]

Hi Folks,
I have a 1991 26 S Model. I pulled it out of the water for fresh paint and while it's out, I would like to install turnbuckles on the side-stays and shroud stays.

I'm also considering a quick release mechanism on each of the side stays as well as the fore-stay so that, once I have a good tune, I can lower the mast and raise without adjustments.

Has anyone done this? Do you have any recommendations?

Thanks a lot, Jerry

 

[Sumner]

We installed a Johnson lever on the forestay, but I don't see any reason for one on the shrouds myself, but that is just my opinion. I think the plates are pretty quick to adjust and once set shouldn't need constant attention and they all stay attached to the mast going up and down and don't bend or have a problem.

Good luck and I just ....

...bottom painted our boat. Here is a link.......

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-39.html

.... to that if it would help in anyway,

Sum

Our Trips to Lake Powell, UT - Kootenay Lake, Canada - Priest Lake, ID

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[timebandit]

Why would you want to disconect anything but the forestay??

 

[Mike B1026]

Yep, why would you disconnect the side stays?

 

[Freedom77]

Quick release on the side stays could be disastrous as in releasing and loosing the mast. Quick release on the forestay is Okay. Went to standard attachment years ago. Simply use jib halyard to take tension off forestay and disconnect. Jib halyard is strong enough to hold mast in place. Fair winds...

 

[Justin_NSA]

MacGregor = KISS

 

[oreana123]

This is a good place to post an idea I have been considereing. If you are replacing wires on your Mac, consider using Amsteel. Amsteel is a tradename for a newer fiber line made of dyneema. This rigging line is stronger than steel cable by a great margin. This is the line of choice for kite surfers and fishermen. If one used the same diameter of Amsteel to replace wire standing rigging, you would have a stronger and incredibly lighter rig, that would cost less than SS wire. Amsteeel is easy to create eyes in.
I plan to replace my foremost stay with this material. Think of how easy a rig like this would store-never any kinking, just shove the entire rig in a bagn. All tbuckles, johnson levers, and vernier adjusters will work just fine. Full circle, back to a fabric standing rigging.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Interesting. For discussion meat I Googled "Amsteel standing rigging". There are many hits including another Mac forum

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17074

 

[JMonda]

Thanks for all your inputs. Here are my reasons for wanting something like this: When I bought the boat the rigging was very loose. I saw in one of these post that loose side stays and shrouds could be problematic. Without turnbuckles on the sides one can't easily make adjustments on the side stays. I tightened the side stays and shrouds using the standard hardware but then it was much more difficult to raise the mast. Also, I had to tighten the forestay to reduce excessive weather helm (an experienced sailor advised me on this).

I don't know a lot about tuning, but I like the way the boat handles now. If I purchase a cable tension measuring device and turnbuckles I should be able to get a more optimum tune.

Then I thought if I had the quick release devices, I could reduce all the stresses when raising and lowering the mast.

I appreciate the advice and will not install a quick release device on the shrouds and side stays. So what do you guys think about turnbuckles on the side stays and shrouds.

Thanks, Jerry

 

[oreana123]

Jerry I have tbuckles on my sidestays. They do make adjustments easier. They can also cause kinking at the point the wire leaves the tbuckle swage. You are correct about the difficulty of standing the mast up, when the the sidestays are adjusted to high rig tensions. Let's face it, the aft of mast mounting points of the sidestays "oppose" the forestay. I sometimes use the jib halyard around the bow pulpit to pull the mast forward to pin it.
I would forget about any attempt to alter mast rake with the forestay tbuckle, there just is not much adjustment on that hypotenuse, and you have to readjust all of the sidestays to accomodate the forestay length change. And how much effect is there really? If you wish to change rake, recut the forestay or lengthen it, then see if the range of adjustment in the sidestays will accomodate the new set point. Raking the mast aft will definitely increase the slack in the sidestays. Then look at the backstay and see if it needs to be shortened.
Whatever your rig tension, the number one criteria for your rig is to end up with a straight mast, at least to the level of the hounds. You understand that the backstay is not a part of the basic tuning. Release the backstay while you get the forestay and sidestays into correct position/tension. Good luck

 

[JMonda]

Thanks oreana,
I'm looking at the west marine turnbuckle. It accomodates 3/16 wire with a 5/16 pin. It only has a 3 1/4 inch adjustment vs 4 on the stock turnbuckle. But it's a little heavier (4900 lb breaking load). I would probably buy 5 of them at $46.99 each so that I can also replace the forestay turnbuckle. And I'll probably get a Johnson lever for the forestay.

I was also thinking of going one size up on the wire...not for tension purposes but for corrosion resistance.

What do you folks think?

Thanks, Jerry

 

[oreana123]

save your money-size does not prevent corrosion. just upsize the forestay- it opposes 4 sidestays and the rig will fall if it goes....

 

[oreana123]

also, the vernier type of stay tension adjuster that comes stock on Macs and other sailboats is entirely strong enough, and easy to adjust. One can set up the rig, run the jib halyard to the bow rail with a couple feet of slack and tie off. When one unpins the forestay, the mast falls back to the limit set by the jib halyard and allows easy sidestay adjustment. Then repin the forestay and check tension.

Last of all, lie on the deck face up with your head near the mast base and verify straightness.