Just received my new Doyle APC from the Emporium, and am planning the installation. If I connect the tack to the bow roller, I wonder if the upward loads might be too much (as it's obviously engineered for the anchor and its downward loads. Any thoughts? Thanks.
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UPS Installation
George, It's not as big as your APC but I attach my UPS to the hoop on the anchor roller on my 42 and have not had any problems. I have two friends with 42s who fly their assymetricals from the same spot with no problems. One is in the Caribbean and one is somewhere in the South Pacific. I think your bow settup is very similar, if not the same, as that on the P42.
George, It's not as big as your APC but I attach my UPS to the hoop on the anchor roller on my 42 and have not had any problems. I have two friends with 42s who fly their assymetricals from the same spot with no problems. One is in the Caribbean and one is somewhere in the South Pacific. I think your bow settup is very similar, if not the same, as that on the P42.
Used anchor roller on 42, 450
Hi George, I used that same setup on my P42 and 450 with no problems.
Hi George, I used that same setup on my P42 and 450 with no problems.
Same 0n H40.5
Been using the anchor roller's forward bail to attach the tack of a North Gennaker for over 3 years. Flew it in some very stiff winds and no problems. I ran the tack control line down the starboard side to the cockpit so I can control the tack height from there. A mirror image of the jib roller furling control line. Please post a pic as soon as you can. Enjoy the sail!
Been using the anchor roller's forward bail to attach the tack of a North Gennaker for over 3 years. Flew it in some very stiff winds and no problems. I ran the tack control line down the starboard side to the cockpit so I can control the tack height from there. A mirror image of the jib roller furling control line. Please post a pic as soon as you can. Enjoy the sail!
Trying to setup Async Spinnaker
Hi Guys, I purchased a 30T last year and has an Asymetric spinnaker. I'm used to having a guy pole. I would like more info on how to attach and tack the spinnaker? Thanks Jim Wharton jim.wharton@fnc.fujitsu.com 91 30T "Runaway"
Hi Guys, I purchased a 30T last year and has an Asymetric spinnaker. I'm used to having a guy pole. I would like more info on how to attach and tack the spinnaker? Thanks Jim Wharton jim.wharton@fnc.fujitsu.com 91 30T "Runaway"
Reply to Jim on how to tack an asym spinnaker
First off I also use my bow anchor roller for the Asym tack as well. Works fine for me. Jim, Check out this site for a good discription of how to set up and jibe the Asym. http://www.doylesails.com/sails-flyapc.htm My version: Using the spinnaker halyard to hoist the sail: You need two sheets to jibe the sail, they should be about 2 1/2 times the length of the boat in order to allow them to make it around the boat when they are being lazy. The lazy sheet needs to be run around the outside of the headstay. To jibe the sail, you first slack the active sheet so the sail luffs out in front of the boat. As you go into your jibe, the sail will switch over to the new leeward side by going around the OUTSIDE of the headstay. This is different than a forsail jibe which changes over to the new leeward side by coming inside the headstay. As you jibe the boat, trim the new active sheet. This sounds easier than it is, the key is to remember to slack the sail out in front before starting the jibe otherwise the sail will try to pass inside the headstay and things go downhill from there. You can hoist the sail with the jib halyard, but then you have to run the lazy sheet inside the headstay and jibe the sail inside the headstay exactly like a jib. You would only do this if your boat doesn't have a spinnaker halyard. Hope this helps and have fun with it.
First off I also use my bow anchor roller for the Asym tack as well. Works fine for me. Jim, Check out this site for a good discription of how to set up and jibe the Asym. http://www.doylesails.com/sails-flyapc.htm My version: Using the spinnaker halyard to hoist the sail: You need two sheets to jibe the sail, they should be about 2 1/2 times the length of the boat in order to allow them to make it around the boat when they are being lazy. The lazy sheet needs to be run around the outside of the headstay. To jibe the sail, you first slack the active sheet so the sail luffs out in front of the boat. As you go into your jibe, the sail will switch over to the new leeward side by going around the OUTSIDE of the headstay. This is different than a forsail jibe which changes over to the new leeward side by coming inside the headstay. As you jibe the boat, trim the new active sheet. This sounds easier than it is, the key is to remember to slack the sail out in front before starting the jibe otherwise the sail will try to pass inside the headstay and things go downhill from there. You can hoist the sail with the jib halyard, but then you have to run the lazy sheet inside the headstay and jibe the sail inside the headstay exactly like a jib. You would only do this if your boat doesn't have a spinnaker halyard. Hope this helps and have fun with it.
Bow Eye attachment
Per the diagrams for the 29.5, the tack line runs from the bow eye, through the anchor roller. Recommended line is 3/8 x 4' braided dacron, snap shackle on both ends for cruising. For tack adjustment, snap a block on the upper shackle and run tack line aft to cleat/winch. BTW, for racing a 55' run of the tack line is used and the "bowsprit" has a bobstay attached to the bow eye.
Per the diagrams for the 29.5, the tack line runs from the bow eye, through the anchor roller. Recommended line is 3/8 x 4' braided dacron, snap shackle on both ends for cruising. For tack adjustment, snap a block on the upper shackle and run tack line aft to cleat/winch. BTW, for racing a 55' run of the tack line is used and the "bowsprit" has a bobstay attached to the bow eye.
easier way
I'm going to disagree with Rob a little bit. The first step when going into a gybe is to sheet the main in until it stalls. Then steer DDW before easing the spin sheet. Viola! The chute's clew is no longer blanketed by the main, which means that it moves smoothly forward of the forestay without anyone having to run forward and clear it. Once it does this, haul in the lazy sheet and then complete the gybe with the wheel, easing the mainsheet as the main gybes. .......... George, on my 410 I had a 1/2" stainless-steel rod bail welded to the bow roller. It sits at about a 60 degree angle, following the lines of the lower bails. It extends about 7 inches past the anchor roller; figure out the proper extension by pulling the spinnaker halyard taut over the top of the bow pulpit. When I stow the spin halyard on the new bail, it JUST TOUCHES the pulpit. It's a very sweet setup that didn't cost much, I think the yard charged me a hundred bucks for materials and welding.
I'm going to disagree with Rob a little bit. The first step when going into a gybe is to sheet the main in until it stalls. Then steer DDW before easing the spin sheet. Viola! The chute's clew is no longer blanketed by the main, which means that it moves smoothly forward of the forestay without anyone having to run forward and clear it. Once it does this, haul in the lazy sheet and then complete the gybe with the wheel, easing the mainsheet as the main gybes. .......... George, on my 410 I had a 1/2" stainless-steel rod bail welded to the bow roller. It sits at about a 60 degree angle, following the lines of the lower bails. It extends about 7 inches past the anchor roller; figure out the proper extension by pulling the spinnaker halyard taut over the top of the bow pulpit. When I stow the spin halyard on the new bail, it JUST TOUCHES the pulpit. It's a very sweet setup that didn't cost much, I think the yard charged me a hundred bucks for materials and welding.
Thanks...
I was concerned about the upward force pulling the roller out of the deck or damaging the attachment point, but it sounds like no one has had this problem. Has anyone added a backing plate or washers to the attachment bolts (the factory instalation looks a bit weak... small washers only).
I was concerned about the upward force pulling the roller out of the deck or damaging the attachment point, but it sounds like no one has had this problem. Has anyone added a backing plate or washers to the attachment bolts (the factory instalation looks a bit weak... small washers only).
yikes
I've received several emails this morning requesting a picture of my bail. I don't have the technology to do this at the moment and am preparing to be out of port for about ten days starting Saturday, but I'll try to borrow a digital camera after I return. In the meantime, here's a better description: The bail is made of 1/2" steel bar, shaped in an upside-down "U" 12 inches long. The inside of the U measures 3.5", the outside 4.5". It is welded flush with the anchor bales on the forward part of the roller, with three one-inch welds on each side of the "U", two outside welds at the points where the tack bail touches the anchor bails, and one inside weld halfway in between. The bail angles forward at 35 degrees, and projects six inches beyong the anchor pin holes on the roller, rendering the holes useless. Next time I haul out I will be modifying the bail by having a smaller "U" welded on the inside of the bail at the top of the curve, which will retain the spinnaker tack in the highest, most forward position when reaching. Think of the new addition as a small rightside-up U welded inside of the big upside-down U. Hope this isn't too confusing.
I've received several emails this morning requesting a picture of my bail. I don't have the technology to do this at the moment and am preparing to be out of port for about ten days starting Saturday, but I'll try to borrow a digital camera after I return. In the meantime, here's a better description: The bail is made of 1/2" steel bar, shaped in an upside-down "U" 12 inches long. The inside of the U measures 3.5", the outside 4.5". It is welded flush with the anchor bales on the forward part of the roller, with three one-inch welds on each side of the "U", two outside welds at the points where the tack bail touches the anchor bails, and one inside weld halfway in between. The bail angles forward at 35 degrees, and projects six inches beyong the anchor pin holes on the roller, rendering the holes useless. Next time I haul out I will be modifying the bail by having a smaller "U" welded on the inside of the bail at the top of the curve, which will retain the spinnaker tack in the highest, most forward position when reaching. Think of the new addition as a small rightside-up U welded inside of the big upside-down U. Hope this isn't too confusing.
attachment
George, do I recall correctly that you have a 430? If so, it may be different than my 410, on which the anchor roller is one piece with the stem chainplate (which backs the forestay.) If this is the case with your boat as well, it's one of the strongest attachment points on the entire boat. (This is an area, btw, where Hunter deserves huge kudos. Compare the anchor roller on an h410 with the roller on a Catalina 42 Mark II, and you'll see what I'm talking about. Catalina uses about 1/5th the amount of steel and doesn't connect the forestay backing with the roller, meaning that it's a far less secure place to tack an asymmetrical spinnaker.)
George, do I recall correctly that you have a 430? If so, it may be different than my 410, on which the anchor roller is one piece with the stem chainplate (which backs the forestay.) If this is the case with your boat as well, it's one of the strongest attachment points on the entire boat. (This is an area, btw, where Hunter deserves huge kudos. Compare the anchor roller on an h410 with the roller on a Catalina 42 Mark II, and you'll see what I'm talking about. Catalina uses about 1/5th the amount of steel and doesn't connect the forestay backing with the roller, meaning that it's a far less secure place to tack an asymmetrical spinnaker.)
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