I'm about to install some new handrails on my 1976 O'Day 25, which came with none when I bought it. The boat still has holes where the original handrails had been bolted, but they were filled with some kind of sealant. The new handrails came without any bolts or screws, so I will have to buy new ones and drill holes into the bottom of the handrails. My main question is, what size bolts or screws should I get? My second question is, what is the best way I can protect the teak wood before I install it on the boat? I know there are a lot of different products on the market. I want something that will give the teak a nice luster and maximum protection from the elements. Thanks in advance! Eric "The Red"
Installing Teak Handrails
- Thread starter Eric the Red
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Teak hand rails
You can get find out what the original bolt size was by checking inside the cabin. The interior cabin liner should have access holes pre-drilled (probably covered by plastic plugs) at the points where the factory-installed handrails were affixed. These holes were used to allow for access to the underside of the deck so that the nuts affixing the original handrail bolts could be serviced. Take out the plugs, and measure the existing holes. As far as finishing the teak (and I think you have the right idea by doing the finishing before affixing the handrails), there are so many choices that it hurts. I have tried: letting the teak weather naturally; and using Semco Teak Sealer. The Semco goes on like a stain; two coats was supposed to last the entire season. Not. It lasted about two maybe three months before it lost its weatherproofing and it started to fade. However, it did look very nice while it lasted. Very natural. I may try real varnish next. I understand that varnishing is very labor intensive, however, it only has to be done every few years. Cetol is also a popular varnish substitute. Easy to apply and durable. However, I never like the orangey look; I hear that they have new colors that address that issue. I have also heard very good things about a product called "Bristol Finish". I went so far as to get info from the manufacturer: varnish-like shine and finish with the ease of cetol or polyurethane application. Supposedly requires only minor yearly touch-ups. The very high price made me reconsider. Check the archives of this site for more advice than you ever wanted on products and techniques for teak maintenance.
You can get find out what the original bolt size was by checking inside the cabin. The interior cabin liner should have access holes pre-drilled (probably covered by plastic plugs) at the points where the factory-installed handrails were affixed. These holes were used to allow for access to the underside of the deck so that the nuts affixing the original handrail bolts could be serviced. Take out the plugs, and measure the existing holes. As far as finishing the teak (and I think you have the right idea by doing the finishing before affixing the handrails), there are so many choices that it hurts. I have tried: letting the teak weather naturally; and using Semco Teak Sealer. The Semco goes on like a stain; two coats was supposed to last the entire season. Not. It lasted about two maybe three months before it lost its weatherproofing and it started to fade. However, it did look very nice while it lasted. Very natural. I may try real varnish next. I understand that varnishing is very labor intensive, however, it only has to be done every few years. Cetol is also a popular varnish substitute. Easy to apply and durable. However, I never like the orangey look; I hear that they have new colors that address that issue. I have also heard very good things about a product called "Bristol Finish". I went so far as to get info from the manufacturer: varnish-like shine and finish with the ease of cetol or polyurethane application. Supposedly requires only minor yearly touch-ups. The very high price made me reconsider. Check the archives of this site for more advice than you ever wanted on products and techniques for teak maintenance.
Teak Handrails
Eric "The Red" I just yesterday (09/23/2004)installed new teak handrails on my 1977 O'day 22. I had the bolts from the old rails, so I did not need to buy new ones. The bolts are stainless, appx. 3' long and I would guess a number 10. Common at chandlrey's, but not hardware stores. They are bolted completely through the coach roof. The cabin roof interior of my 22 had nickle sized holes cut to allow you to get a washer and nut on the back side of the bolt to add strength. Be sure to counter sink hole through the new handrail in order to add a teak "plug". We used one tube of 3M 4200 adhesive/sealant which worked great but can be quite messy installing handrails (keep paint thinner handy). My father is a woodworker and has a good amount of experience with teak. We used what the professionals recommend. It is a mixture of 70% tung oil and 30% mineral spirits. I am sure it is very similar in composition to the "teak oil" products available, but is less expensive to mix yourself. We put a second coat on after allowing the first to absorb fully. Good luck, let me know if you have any other questions regarding teak, not only did we replace the handrails, but we completely replaced all the teak on deck.
Eric "The Red" I just yesterday (09/23/2004)installed new teak handrails on my 1977 O'day 22. I had the bolts from the old rails, so I did not need to buy new ones. The bolts are stainless, appx. 3' long and I would guess a number 10. Common at chandlrey's, but not hardware stores. They are bolted completely through the coach roof. The cabin roof interior of my 22 had nickle sized holes cut to allow you to get a washer and nut on the back side of the bolt to add strength. Be sure to counter sink hole through the new handrail in order to add a teak "plug". We used one tube of 3M 4200 adhesive/sealant which worked great but can be quite messy installing handrails (keep paint thinner handy). My father is a woodworker and has a good amount of experience with teak. We used what the professionals recommend. It is a mixture of 70% tung oil and 30% mineral spirits. I am sure it is very similar in composition to the "teak oil" products available, but is less expensive to mix yourself. We put a second coat on after allowing the first to absorb fully. Good luck, let me know if you have any other questions regarding teak, not only did we replace the handrails, but we completely replaced all the teak on deck.
Finishing Teak Handrails
Eric, I'll share my experience with teak finishes and echo Mike Branford's comments. Not impressed with the longevity of teak oil treatments but they are easy to apply. Have used Interlux varnish on my 272, think six coats the first year (follow directions about thinning the first coat to seal the wood) and then a couple of coats each spring and fall thereafter. Most varnishes must dry for at least 8 hours and you have to sand between coats which is very time consuming. The bottom line for me is the process is time consuming, the finish is beautiful, you can easily repair a spot, but you must keep up the annual maintenance-if you let it go you have to scrape all the finish off and start all over. Tried Bristol Finish this year which allows new coat after two hours and no sanding. I never could get on more than two coats in a day and didn't feel it lived up to to its billing (that's my opinion, Practical Sailor liked it a lot and that's why I tried it). It is more expensive than varish or oil. Be real careful when mixing the two parts, it must be done exactly just like epoxy. Went to Epiphanes varish this year and like it. Agree with Mike's comments about Cetol, but I am going to use the new Cetol products on my new motor boat. It has to much wood for me to commit to the annual varnish regime; I'm hoping to only recoat every few years. You put on a couple of coats of the stain (which is not as orangey as the original Cetol) and then follow with coats of a gloss clear coat which is supposed to make it look more like varnish and add depth tot he finish. Won't be doing this until next spring, but I'm making the commitment to the new Cetol products. Good luck with the new rails. Frank
Eric, I'll share my experience with teak finishes and echo Mike Branford's comments. Not impressed with the longevity of teak oil treatments but they are easy to apply. Have used Interlux varnish on my 272, think six coats the first year (follow directions about thinning the first coat to seal the wood) and then a couple of coats each spring and fall thereafter. Most varnishes must dry for at least 8 hours and you have to sand between coats which is very time consuming. The bottom line for me is the process is time consuming, the finish is beautiful, you can easily repair a spot, but you must keep up the annual maintenance-if you let it go you have to scrape all the finish off and start all over. Tried Bristol Finish this year which allows new coat after two hours and no sanding. I never could get on more than two coats in a day and didn't feel it lived up to to its billing (that's my opinion, Practical Sailor liked it a lot and that's why I tried it). It is more expensive than varish or oil. Be real careful when mixing the two parts, it must be done exactly just like epoxy. Went to Epiphanes varish this year and like it. Agree with Mike's comments about Cetol, but I am going to use the new Cetol products on my new motor boat. It has to much wood for me to commit to the annual varnish regime; I'm hoping to only recoat every few years. You put on a couple of coats of the stain (which is not as orangey as the original Cetol) and then follow with coats of a gloss clear coat which is supposed to make it look more like varnish and add depth tot he finish. Won't be doing this until next spring, but I'm making the commitment to the new Cetol products. Good luck with the new rails. Frank
Tung Oil / Mineral Spirits Mix
Steve, Is there any special trick to the 70/30 mix of tung oil and mineral spirits? Or do you just dump it all into one can and use that to do the varnishing? Eric
Steve, Is there any special trick to the 70/30 mix of tung oil and mineral spirits? Or do you just dump it all into one can and use that to do the varnishing? Eric
Tung oil/Mineral spirits mixture
Eric, We combined the mixture (both at same time) in a screw top plastic container and applied the mixture with a disposable sponge brush. Containing tung oil it can be messy to apply with a cloth, I think the sponge brush works best. Use the screw top container to keep out moisture and foreign matter, shake well before each use as the two will separate with time. For best results I plan on applying approximately every two or three months. Good luck. Steve
Eric, We combined the mixture (both at same time) in a screw top plastic container and applied the mixture with a disposable sponge brush. Containing tung oil it can be messy to apply with a cloth, I think the sponge brush works best. Use the screw top container to keep out moisture and foreign matter, shake well before each use as the two will separate with time. For best results I plan on applying approximately every two or three months. Good luck. Steve
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