Installing skene chocks

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Feb 20, 2011
8,048
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
I thought the point of a skene chock was to help prevent the rode or dockline from lifting out of the chock. When I site the chock with an "R" cast into the base, I see the first photo attached.
The second photo shows what happens when I put the "L" designated chock on the gunwhale.
I hope some here can offer some counsel as to how I should proceed. Thanks.
 

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Feb 26, 2004
22,986
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Tom, I personally do not think chocks are a good idea. I have never understood why someone would put TWO things on their boat when one would do.

A: a simple horn cleat

B: a simple horn cleat PLUS a chock

Why?

I look at boats in my marina, which is relatively calm, and most folks with chocks have nothing but wear and tear where the line runs through the chock, compared to folks with cleats at the gunwhale with straight fairleads to the dock cleats.

I know we have discussed this before and there are folks who really think they work. I believe they are just an added burden and create the distinct possibility of additional and unnecessary stress on docklines.

Just my opinion...

PS --- added: My understanding is that there are right hand and left hand chocks. Anybody????
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,048
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
I appreciate your opinion. It could be that this small purchase is the result of overzealousness, but as it's too hot to sail here in S. AZ at the moment, I'm somewhat bored.
The chocks have an "R" and "L" cast into their respective bases (why not an "S" or "P"? :D)

P.S.- Boredom is highly underrated!
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
PS --- added: My understanding is that there are right hand and left hand chocks. Anybody????
that is correct one is marked L and the other is marked R ...and i f am correct in my assumtion depending on weather you put them foward or aft depends on what you put left and right (port and starbord) i think the R goes starborad and the L goes port when useing them foward and the reverse when putting them aft....

regards

woody
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,048
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
Choke1 is correct,

Choke is not correct as line can be lifted out.
Thanks, Woodster and Alexco38. I suppose I could easily switch 'em back if I find any problems with putting them on "backwards".
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,986
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Glad you got your answer. I know I was no help, but once you use them for a while, I'd really be interested in your impressions.

Thanks,

Stu
 
Feb 20, 2011
8,048
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
But you were helpful. I will report back. Thanks again!
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
Tom, I personally do not think chocks are a good idea. I have never understood why someone would put TWO things on their boat when one would do.

A: a simple horn cleat

B: a simple horn cleat PLUS a chock

Why?

I look at boats in my marina, which is relatively calm, and most folks with chocks have nothing but wear and tear where the line runs through the chock, compared to folks with cleats at the gunwhale with straight fairleads to the dock cleats.

I know we have discussed this before and there are folks who really think they work. I believe they are just an added burden and create the distinct possibility of additional and unnecessary stress on docklines.

Just my opinion...

PS --- added: My understanding is that there are right hand and left hand chocks. Anybody????
Stu,
My chocks keep dock lines from wearing at my faux wood toerails. Chafing protection is easy= tygon tubing held in place by para cord or heavy string.
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,986
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
merlin,

I hear you. Have you considered SS rub strakes? I use them over wood edges to avoid chafing, like for our vang line and other areas.
 
Dec 2, 2003
1,637
Hunter 376 Warsash, England --
Since 1976 I have moored my boat port side to the dock using a breastrope from the port cleat to the dock and another rope from a sliding ring on the pile holding my pontoon, up and over the toe rail and to the starboard bow cleat.
This means this latter rope bears heavily on the moulded toe rail.
I was expecting to see wear on both rope and fibreglass toe rail.
To date no wear whatsoever to rope or GRP after 15 years.
I conclude that no fairleads are needed.
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
merlin,

I hear you. Have you considered SS rub strakes? I use them over wood edges to avoid chafing, like for our vang line and other areas.
Stu,
My fwd chocks are built into the bow fitting and my stern lines are high enough to not normally touch but rub strakes would work back there and look good too.
Thanks!
 
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