Hello Everyone. I have purchased 2 same model marine deep cycle batteries to replace the 2 installed by the previous owner. The current wiring is a BIG mess and I'd like to get it organized and everything connected properly. I did an archive search but wasn't able to find anything I could make much sense of with my very limited battery education (none). - Typical Perko 1/2/All/Off switch located on the aft bulkhead. - Two 85ah deep cycle batteries - Honda 9.9 electric start (currently started by jumpstart pack) - Standard Horizon Depth Meter and Knot meter (currently direct connect to starboard battery w/inline fuse) - 10Watt Flexible Solar Panel (never installed) Can anyone please help me with simple step-by-step instructions that will provide an efficient setup? One question about the main panel... I currently have to use the ACC SWitch to get power to the panel. Is this a typical install? Thank you, Jan Delbert Lake Lanier, GA s/v Tickled Pink, 94 H26
Installing New Batteries - 94 H26
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Battery Electrical System
Jan, I recently purchased a 1996 H26 and found its electrical wiring a real mess as well. It had apparently been modifies and added to several times and did not look the least bit trustworthy, so I gutted the major pieces and started over. The result is a low-voltage system which is clean and simple, has proven very dependable, and should have good integrity for years to come. Basic concept - I individually connected my battery positives to Perko switch #1 & #2 inputs, and my engine, the feed to my switch/fuse panel, and my 10W solar panel(*) are all connected to the single output terminal (the grounds are all made common). I fused my panel feed at 30A just off the Perko switch to protect its length and then eventually routed it to feed all the switch inputs on the original Hunter panel itself. The panel's switch outputs are indivually fused and go directly to their respective loads. My accessory switch is wired to control power to my radios (marine, AM/FM and satelite), my Raytheon instrumentation, where each item is additionally fuse-protected at their respective sites, and also goes to a single accessory plug-in port. The (*) represents a very important aspect of solar panel application. Most solar panels should feed directly into an appropriate solar voltage regulator (to control output voltage, charging rates, and prevent reverse battery discharge at night) and the output of that device should then go to your Perko output terminal. If this is not done the voltage from the solar panel (which can exceed 20 volts) will eventually 'cook' your batteries and greatly reduce their expected lives. A properly connected solar panel will do a terrific job at keeping your batteries charged and always ready to go. Hope this gives you at least an idea of a direction to go in... Stephen
Jan, I recently purchased a 1996 H26 and found its electrical wiring a real mess as well. It had apparently been modifies and added to several times and did not look the least bit trustworthy, so I gutted the major pieces and started over. The result is a low-voltage system which is clean and simple, has proven very dependable, and should have good integrity for years to come. Basic concept - I individually connected my battery positives to Perko switch #1 & #2 inputs, and my engine, the feed to my switch/fuse panel, and my 10W solar panel(*) are all connected to the single output terminal (the grounds are all made common). I fused my panel feed at 30A just off the Perko switch to protect its length and then eventually routed it to feed all the switch inputs on the original Hunter panel itself. The panel's switch outputs are indivually fused and go directly to their respective loads. My accessory switch is wired to control power to my radios (marine, AM/FM and satelite), my Raytheon instrumentation, where each item is additionally fuse-protected at their respective sites, and also goes to a single accessory plug-in port. The (*) represents a very important aspect of solar panel application. Most solar panels should feed directly into an appropriate solar voltage regulator (to control output voltage, charging rates, and prevent reverse battery discharge at night) and the output of that device should then go to your Perko output terminal. If this is not done the voltage from the solar panel (which can exceed 20 volts) will eventually 'cook' your batteries and greatly reduce their expected lives. A properly connected solar panel will do a terrific job at keeping your batteries charged and always ready to go. Hope this gives you at least an idea of a direction to go in... Stephen
H26 Wiring
You might want to look at this link for a similar wiring job I did on my H260 http://kobernus.com/hunter260/electric/electric1.html
You might want to look at this link for a similar wiring job I did on my H260 http://kobernus.com/hunter260/electric/electric1.html
H26 Wiring - Great Job
Hi George, Nice electrical layout and photos of work. The presentation really explains things well. If you aren't/have been an engineer you should have been.
Hi George, Nice electrical layout and photos of work. The presentation really explains things well. If you aren't/have been an engineer you should have been.
Thanks Fellas
George, As usual... genius and a work of art. Unfortunately, I really need this spoon fed as, beyond red/pos and black/neg (hopefully) it's greek to me, even with Don Casey's book!! Any chance you can help me dummy it down? Stephen, I understand the connection of the battery positives to #1 & #2 inputs on the Perko switch. Is the 3rd Perko connection, labeled Common on mine, what you mean by the "single output terminal"? Also, "the grounds are all made common"... does this mean all black/negatives are made common? Presently, I've got the negative terminals on both batteries connected to one another. My solar panel, according to the manufacturer, has a built in regulator. Presently, I have it connected directly to the starboard battery and left the Perko switch set to All in hopes of maintaining both batteries. Should the red lead connect to the Common Perko connection, with my Pos Outboard lead, and Pos switch panel lead... then all Neg/Black leads made common? My Hunter Panel Acc Switch is a whole other issue. There is a T connector on the Acc Switch and several wires connected to it. Nothing powers up unless the Acc Switch is in the on position. I can't imagine that's the way it's supposed to be, but it does keep me from leaving anything on to drain the batteries by accident. Finally, once I do get everything hooked up at least ok... will I leave the Perko switch set to All 1 or 2 when I'm away from the boat? Thank you for posting replies to my post. It was up there for a long time being viewed and not responded to and I was afraid I was out here all alone on this one. I LOVE MY NEW BOAT!!
George, As usual... genius and a work of art. Unfortunately, I really need this spoon fed as, beyond red/pos and black/neg (hopefully) it's greek to me, even with Don Casey's book!! Any chance you can help me dummy it down? Stephen, I understand the connection of the battery positives to #1 & #2 inputs on the Perko switch. Is the 3rd Perko connection, labeled Common on mine, what you mean by the "single output terminal"? Also, "the grounds are all made common"... does this mean all black/negatives are made common? Presently, I've got the negative terminals on both batteries connected to one another. My solar panel, according to the manufacturer, has a built in regulator. Presently, I have it connected directly to the starboard battery and left the Perko switch set to All in hopes of maintaining both batteries. Should the red lead connect to the Common Perko connection, with my Pos Outboard lead, and Pos switch panel lead... then all Neg/Black leads made common? My Hunter Panel Acc Switch is a whole other issue. There is a T connector on the Acc Switch and several wires connected to it. Nothing powers up unless the Acc Switch is in the on position. I can't imagine that's the way it's supposed to be, but it does keep me from leaving anything on to drain the batteries by accident. Finally, once I do get everything hooked up at least ok... will I leave the Perko switch set to All 1 or 2 when I'm away from the boat? Thank you for posting replies to my post. It was up there for a long time being viewed and not responded to and I was afraid I was out here all alone on this one. I LOVE MY NEW BOAT!!
Black/Negative/Ground...
Jan, The Perko's third terminal may be labeled C or common, and is the same as what I referred to as the 'output' terminal of the switch. A common-ground electrical system (which is what we are talking about here) is one that has all negative, black, and ground wires (different labels for the same thing here) tied in common, hence common-ground. Sometimes its just a matter of personal philosophy on how one chooses to wire the various components. Your method of wiring the solar panel directly to one of your batteries will work, but I also want my solar panel to be completely removable from the batteries via the Perko switch for any future system monitoring or trouble shooting. The voltage from a loaded and unloaded solar panel will be different and can be useful in evaluating system performance later on. It sounds like your panel's accessory switch is being used more like a main disconnect rather than just controling power to your truely 'accessory' items (ie. radio and instrumentation). Don't know if that would be the doings of Hunter or a former owner - a philosophical difference. By spreading the electrical load across multiple switches it prevents a relatively large current from going through any single switch. The Perko OFF switch position can then be used if you are worried about accidently draining your batteries. Different people will likely do wiring in different ways to match their individual goals and philosophies, and as long as a few simple rules are followed (likely explained in George's referenced book) AND you are consistant in your methodology, the results should be dependable. It sounds like from the method you've used you could leave your Perko in either OFF or BOTH and your solar panel will then be connected to either one or both of your batteries. I leave my switch in BOTH so my 10W panel will easily keep both batteries topped off and always ready to go, and I use OFF when I want to completely disconnect all batteries and the panel from one another for diagnostics or addition wiring work. Have fun improving your electrical system and getting it the way you want, and have fun sailing... Stephen
Jan, The Perko's third terminal may be labeled C or common, and is the same as what I referred to as the 'output' terminal of the switch. A common-ground electrical system (which is what we are talking about here) is one that has all negative, black, and ground wires (different labels for the same thing here) tied in common, hence common-ground. Sometimes its just a matter of personal philosophy on how one chooses to wire the various components. Your method of wiring the solar panel directly to one of your batteries will work, but I also want my solar panel to be completely removable from the batteries via the Perko switch for any future system monitoring or trouble shooting. The voltage from a loaded and unloaded solar panel will be different and can be useful in evaluating system performance later on. It sounds like your panel's accessory switch is being used more like a main disconnect rather than just controling power to your truely 'accessory' items (ie. radio and instrumentation). Don't know if that would be the doings of Hunter or a former owner - a philosophical difference. By spreading the electrical load across multiple switches it prevents a relatively large current from going through any single switch. The Perko OFF switch position can then be used if you are worried about accidently draining your batteries. Different people will likely do wiring in different ways to match their individual goals and philosophies, and as long as a few simple rules are followed (likely explained in George's referenced book) AND you are consistant in your methodology, the results should be dependable. It sounds like from the method you've used you could leave your Perko in either OFF or BOTH and your solar panel will then be connected to either one or both of your batteries. I leave my switch in BOTH so my 10W panel will easily keep both batteries topped off and always ready to go, and I use OFF when I want to completely disconnect all batteries and the panel from one another for diagnostics or addition wiring work. Have fun improving your electrical system and getting it the way you want, and have fun sailing... Stephen
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