Has anyone installed a refridgerator on their 28.5? I'm looking for a spot to install one and it seems their isn't much room. I want to purchase a fridge after I figure out where to put it. My best idea is to remove the stove, relocate the battery and install it in the cabinet underneath, but it doesn't look like I have sufficient depth. Any ideas?
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Darrel
Refrigerator?
Why would you install a refrig (assuming you are talking about an apartment size 110V Refrig)? There are many 12V systems out there that will fit in your ice box. With 110V the only time you'll be able to use it, is while your at the dock. Unless your going to install a generator. All that would appear to be very costly and space consuming. Check into the 12V systems on the market before you commit the other way.
Why would you install a refrig (assuming you are talking about an apartment size 110V Refrig)? There are many 12V systems out there that will fit in your ice box. With 110V the only time you'll be able to use it, is while your at the dock. Unless your going to install a generator. All that would appear to be very costly and space consuming. Check into the 12V systems on the market before you commit the other way.
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Ed Schenck
Dorm frig?
Is the picture your galley?(could not post, too big). Then it would seem that Darrel is right, try a 12 volt system in the icebox. Not easy and not cheap however. You would not want to tear up the area under the stove even if a small fridge would fit. Another alternative I have seen is a custom box under the nav table. Beauty is that you can make it big and very well insulated. Just talked to a friend who is doing that. He wants the much more efficient top loading box. He will put the opening inside of the nav table! Under the nav table can work for 12V or 110V. I cannot completely discount the dorm fridge option since I have one. A previous owner installed one where the gimbaled stove/oven used to be. I have installed a two-burner stove over it. The drinks are always cold when we arrive. If just day-sailing the contents will stay cold for several hours after we unplug. I do not run it on the inverter but I could. It takes about 12 DC amps and would run half the time, so about 6-7 Amp Hours.
Is the picture your galley?(could not post, too big). Then it would seem that Darrel is right, try a 12 volt system in the icebox. Not easy and not cheap however. You would not want to tear up the area under the stove even if a small fridge would fit. Another alternative I have seen is a custom box under the nav table. Beauty is that you can make it big and very well insulated. Just talked to a friend who is doing that. He wants the much more efficient top loading box. He will put the opening inside of the nav table! Under the nav table can work for 12V or 110V. I cannot completely discount the dorm fridge option since I have one. A previous owner installed one where the gimbaled stove/oven used to be. I have installed a two-burner stove over it. The drinks are always cold when we arrive. If just day-sailing the contents will stay cold for several hours after we unplug. I do not run it on the inverter but I could. It takes about 12 DC amps and would run half the time, so about 6-7 Amp Hours.
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Stephen Prusinski
refrigerator
I think the best alternative is convert the icebox. I noticed that the compressors can run off either AC or DC. I may shop around and see if I can find one of those new TE refriderators. They keep the drinks cold, but they don't freeze worth a darn. Anyway they use a silicon chip that heats up on one side and gets cold on the other side. They're supposed to be a lot cheaper. I noticed that the icebox conversion is just as much money as a complete system. Anyway, thanks again for your help! Steve
I think the best alternative is convert the icebox. I noticed that the compressors can run off either AC or DC. I may shop around and see if I can find one of those new TE refriderators. They keep the drinks cold, but they don't freeze worth a darn. Anyway they use a silicon chip that heats up on one side and gets cold on the other side. They're supposed to be a lot cheaper. I noticed that the icebox conversion is just as much money as a complete system. Anyway, thanks again for your help! Steve
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John
conversion
I haven't done this but a couple of people at our club have. Dorm frig from dint and ding (Cheap), use the guts to convert the ice box. 110vt only and add block ice for long outings.
I haven't done this but a couple of people at our club have. Dorm frig from dint and ding (Cheap), use the guts to convert the ice box. 110vt only and add block ice for long outings.
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Stewart MacChesney
Refrigerator
My 1987 - 28.5 has a Kiss refrigerator system works on 12 or 120 has a unit in the icebox and can even make a small amount of ice cubes.The compressor is in the cupboard under the stove along with the temperature control. The unit has worked quite well for me. ( I got it with the boat) My house batteries are 2 six volt golf cart batteries which ran the unit for 19 hrs. during the east coast power outage. Hope this helps.
My 1987 - 28.5 has a Kiss refrigerator system works on 12 or 120 has a unit in the icebox and can even make a small amount of ice cubes.The compressor is in the cupboard under the stove along with the temperature control. The unit has worked quite well for me. ( I got it with the boat) My house batteries are 2 six volt golf cart batteries which ran the unit for 19 hrs. during the east coast power outage. Hope this helps.
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Stephen Prusinski
John of BLSC
This is a great idea! Did you install the compressor in the icebox as well, or did you install it under the stove? I think I might delve into this idea a little further. What I may also look at is to find an inverter to handle the power and a manual switch so I can at least select the option of battery power and shore power. However... I could setup a simple relay circuit to do it for me automatically. Hmmm... Thanks for your reply! Steve
This is a great idea! Did you install the compressor in the icebox as well, or did you install it under the stove? I think I might delve into this idea a little further. What I may also look at is to find an inverter to handle the power and a manual switch so I can at least select the option of battery power and shore power. However... I could setup a simple relay circuit to do it for me automatically. Hmmm... Thanks for your reply! Steve
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