How difficult is it to install a pedistal guard on the H260? Does anyone have any experiences to share? Thank you, Tom
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Did it last week.
Hi Tom, Just installed a pedestal guard on my H260 last week. Crazy Dave was laughing alot from the places I was getting 3M5200 on my face. One thing though if you plan to place any instruments on the pedestall make sure not to get the 45" model. Get the 54" and cut it down to size. I'm installing a instrument pod and the motor controls hit the pod, even at its highest location. Talking with Edson they recommend the 54" and cut the legs to a height that works. I was hoping they could provide a 45" that was bent back about 30deg, but they contract out to have these made. Also be carefull which model guard you get, Edson has changed the design of the foot and how it attaches to the deck. I have the older model which has the moulded feet that hold the guard to the deck. Crazy Dave used SS screws to attach the feet to the deck, his recommendation is that it will work. You have no access from below to use the bolts that come with the guard. This brings up a bone of contention that Dave and I had. In the berth area there are two access plates held in place by screws. The front one gives access the the large u bolt you attach the main sheet line to. The large access to the back goes nowhere, BUT this is directly blow the pedestal. Dave did not and recommends not cutting an access hole here. I disagree. I spoke with Eddie Breeden, who said it would not cause any problems. I plan to install a 6" inspection deck plate to give me access to the bottom of the pedestal. Then I can install the bolts and get better access to the wiring that is run up through the pedestal guard. I will be posting pictures on the forum as soon as I can. This is not a diffcult job, on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being "Need to take it to a professional". This is a 3. Jim S/V Java
Hi Tom, Just installed a pedestal guard on my H260 last week. Crazy Dave was laughing alot from the places I was getting 3M5200 on my face. One thing though if you plan to place any instruments on the pedestall make sure not to get the 45" model. Get the 54" and cut it down to size. I'm installing a instrument pod and the motor controls hit the pod, even at its highest location. Talking with Edson they recommend the 54" and cut the legs to a height that works. I was hoping they could provide a 45" that was bent back about 30deg, but they contract out to have these made. Also be carefull which model guard you get, Edson has changed the design of the foot and how it attaches to the deck. I have the older model which has the moulded feet that hold the guard to the deck. Crazy Dave used SS screws to attach the feet to the deck, his recommendation is that it will work. You have no access from below to use the bolts that come with the guard. This brings up a bone of contention that Dave and I had. In the berth area there are two access plates held in place by screws. The front one gives access the the large u bolt you attach the main sheet line to. The large access to the back goes nowhere, BUT this is directly blow the pedestal. Dave did not and recommends not cutting an access hole here. I disagree. I spoke with Eddie Breeden, who said it would not cause any problems. I plan to install a 6" inspection deck plate to give me access to the bottom of the pedestal. Then I can install the bolts and get better access to the wiring that is run up through the pedestal guard. I will be posting pictures on the forum as soon as I can. This is not a diffcult job, on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being "Need to take it to a professional". This is a 3. Jim S/V Java
Installing a pedestal guard
I installed a 54" pedestal guard last year. For me it was easy because I was already lifting the decking on which the pedestal is mounted in order to install a permanent 11 gallon gas tank under the helmsman's seat. I also installed my outboard's pedestal mounted controls at the same time. The decking is held in place with stainless steel screws and marine caulking. I found it fairly easy to remove. Most of the work involved cleaning the old caulking off the lip that the pedestal decking rests upon. It was simple to run a new bed of caulking around the lip and rescrew the decking back in place. Incidentally, while you are working on the pedestal, you may want to consider installing an Edson brake, I found it very helpful since I have not yet purchased an autopilot.
I installed a 54" pedestal guard last year. For me it was easy because I was already lifting the decking on which the pedestal is mounted in order to install a permanent 11 gallon gas tank under the helmsman's seat. I also installed my outboard's pedestal mounted controls at the same time. The decking is held in place with stainless steel screws and marine caulking. I found it fairly easy to remove. Most of the work involved cleaning the old caulking off the lip that the pedestal decking rests upon. It was simple to run a new bed of caulking around the lip and rescrew the decking back in place. Incidentally, while you are working on the pedestal, you may want to consider installing an Edson brake, I found it very helpful since I have not yet purchased an autopilot.
Deck on / deck off
Hi Guys, I sent Tom a reply to the same question on the Hunter list at Sailnet. I second everything you said from my experience with the installation. I also had my helm deck off for installation of a custom gas tank so it made it simple to fasten the guard feet. I also was unsure about going with the 45" or 54" and cutting down. After seeing how much room the engine controls and some instruments take I realized the 54" didn't need the cutting that I thought it would. Also the 54" is 1 1/8" instead of 1" OD. This gives a little more room for wires up the tube. Jim, I agree with putting the access hole in the deck. It just needs to be sealed pretty good. Hunter and Dave both recommended to me to put sealer on the top of the whole deck seam after it was reinstalled. Then you wouldn't have much water getting to the lower level under the main deck anyway. I think the instruments on the guard are by far more practical than on the bulkhead and really carries forward the big boat look on the H260. Fair Winds, Joe C. in NC '01 H260 Windward Passage
Hi Guys, I sent Tom a reply to the same question on the Hunter list at Sailnet. I second everything you said from my experience with the installation. I also had my helm deck off for installation of a custom gas tank so it made it simple to fasten the guard feet. I also was unsure about going with the 45" or 54" and cutting down. After seeing how much room the engine controls and some instruments take I realized the 54" didn't need the cutting that I thought it would. Also the 54" is 1 1/8" instead of 1" OD. This gives a little more room for wires up the tube. Jim, I agree with putting the access hole in the deck. It just needs to be sealed pretty good. Hunter and Dave both recommended to me to put sealer on the top of the whole deck seam after it was reinstalled. Then you wouldn't have much water getting to the lower level under the main deck anyway. I think the instruments on the guard are by far more practical than on the bulkhead and really carries forward the big boat look on the H260. Fair Winds, Joe C. in NC '01 H260 Windward Passage
Tom Check photo forum
I just finished installing the guard, instrument pod and autopilot. Jim S/V Java
I just finished installing the guard, instrument pod and autopilot. Jim S/V Java
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