Installing a new handle for Spinlock XA rope clutch

finding41 · Sep 11, 2012

I would take it right off the deck. Get it on a work bench or something that is solid. (Just think of the pressure you are exerting on the thru bolts. (Check there for leaks next time it rains.)
I saw you have a 3" 3/8 extension sitting there. You must have a socket or two that will fit just a bit bigger than the pin. Put the socket on the bench and place the pin over the hole in the socket. (Or use the protected open the jaws of a vice open just bigger than the pin.) Now try and whack it out. It will make a huge difference.
Clean the spot on the deck and bottom of the clutches and use Butyl tape to re-bed it.

onecoolair · Sep 11, 2012

do not hit pin with hammer!!

https://www.spinlock.co.uk/en/supports/videos

berner73 · Sep 11, 2012

Did this last season. I took ours off to rebed while I was at it, but if you want to try with them still on the deck, at a minimum open all the clutches. There's a lot of pressure on the axle when they're loaded.

rardiH36 · Sep 11, 2012

Good tips already given. By all means go ahead with the repair.

But keep a good eye on your clutches. I see from your profile that your boat is 1984 built. I've got the same clutches on my 1980 Hunter. A little older. (A double on the port side and a single on the starboard.) I had to replace one a few years ago because a side plate, in the spot just above where your stubborn pin is stuck, had developed a stress crack and then broke clean off. The pin no longer had a firm fulcrum point. The plastic had reached the end of its life. Became brittle with age and sun. The other two spinlock clutches I fear aren't far behind. In fact just yesterday I noticed a stress crack on one in the same side plate spot as the failed one a few years ago. I recently found a couple of "pre-used" Lewmar aluminum double clutches in good condition. Next month I will be removing all hardware to do a cabin top repaint. I will fill/fair the Spinlock clutch holes before the painting. Then replace them with the Lewmar ones. I am the type that will try to repair anything. The old Spinlock's though have just worn out on my boat.

rardiH36 · Sep 12, 2012

How about another idea before completely removing the clutch from its mounts to take home for the vice? This would use a large c-clamp. I've done this before with other similar pressing out requirements.

- On the fixed side of the clamp use double-side tape (or you can glue) to affix a socket from your socket set that has an opening bigger than the pin diameter.
- On the other side of the c-clamp (the threaded rod) cut off the flexible head. The cut-off wheel attachment for a Dremmel type tool would work well for this. Once off, underneath at the end of the threaded section should be a rounded ball point.
- Apply a good lubricant to the c-clamp threads.
- Span the pin with this modified c-clamp and tighten. Good chance that the pin will be pressed through into void of the socket side.

Once initial movement is started then you can probably go into a Rube-Goldberg mode to figure out how to press out the pin further enough to replace the broken lever.

Of course the time needed to modify the c-clamp may not be much different than the time required to completely remove the clutch from you cabin top for the vice method and then reinstall!

rardiH36 · Sep 12, 2012

As referenced in my previous post, here's a pic of the stress crack that has formed in the actual body of my Spinlock clutch. Not long for the world I'm afraid.

onecoolair · Sep 12, 2012

the proper repair procedures

rardiH36 said:
As referenced in my previous post, here's a pic of the stress crack that has formed in the actual body of my Spinlock clutch. Not long for the world I'm afraid.

I have a crack in mine too. But the crack is a single hairline at the top of pin and it is on a halyard that is rarely used. Did anyone ever watch these videos on the proper repair procedures?
https://www.spinlock.co.uk/en/supports/videos

rardiH36 · Sep 12, 2012

onecoolair said:
I have a crack in mine too. But the crack is a single hairline at the top of pin and it is on a halyard that is rarely used. Did anyone ever watch these videos on the proper repair procedures?
https://www.spinlock.co.uk/en/supports/videos

Didn't find it in the video, but I saw in the parts section, that the side-plates are also replaceable. Didn't occur to me that such an old model will still be supported. Stand corrected. Mauri Pro Sailing has them for $24 http://www.mauriprosailing.com/Spinlock-Rope-Clutch-Parts-Accessories/SPIXASIDE.html. Still plan to replace mine with the larger aluminum ones I now have waiting for the install.

onecoolair · Sep 12, 2012

rardiH36 said:
Didn't find it in the video, but I saw in the parts section, that the side-plates are also replaceable. Didn't occur to me that such an old model will still be supported. Stand corrected. Mauri Pro Sailing has them for $24 http://www.mauriprosailing.com/Spinlock-Rope-Clutch-Parts-Accessories/SPIXASIDE.html. Still plan to replace mine with the larger aluminum ones I now have waiting for the install.

Just pick clutches and a select model ......All models seem to come apart pretty much the same way.

rardiH36 · Sep 13, 2012

jmseas said:
I removed the clutch from the boat and pressed the pin out in a vise - slid out nicely under the high pressure. All else was simple.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

Also: FYI - Defender Marine sells a repair kit with the side plates, handle, cam & base for $30 (
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|3800|312072&id=1501739

Thanks for reporting back about your outcome. We tend to get advice and then go silent.

Also thanks for the link to the complete repair kit. Seems that only $33 results in almost a completely new single clutch. Got me thinking to repair my single Spinlock instead of installing the spare Lewmar aluminum clutch I have. It's attractive to use the already drilled holes.

Installing a new handle for Spinlock XA rope clutch

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