Installing a cam cleat

[C22BC]

I'm considering installing a cam cleat with a fairlead on my port combing for controlling my furling line , right now there is just the factory horncleat which works fine but would like to free it up for the jib sheets when not on the winches at end of the day. What would be the best way to mount it ? Thru bolts with nuts if I can get under there ?or would screws be sufficient ?
And butyl tape or a sealent for the bond ?

 

[DougM]

Cleat should be through bolted. Chances are that there is no backing reinforcement in the area where you want to install it. Large washers (fender washers) would help spread the load, assuming you have access to the underside. Even better would be a backing plate pre drilled and tapped for the screws, that might eliminate the need to get a wrench underneath

 

[C22BC]

Good tip on the meatballs plate , thanks .

 

[C22BC]

*metal plate ... I really need to read things before I send.

 

[rpwillia]

Don't overthink this/ Garhauer has a great solution.
Stanchion Block SB-25C - Stainless Steel Block
length: 3-1/2 width: 2-5/8, weight: 11 oz shackle:
sheave diameter: 1-3/4
25 series block with swivels 360 degrees. Comes with cam cleat $60.00
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=57

 

[C22BC]

Don't overthink this/ Garhauer has a great solution.
Stanchion Block SB-25C - Stainless Steel Block
length: 3-1/2 width: 2-5/8, weight: 11 oz shackle:
sheave diameter: 1-3/4
25 series block with swivels 360 degrees. Comes with cam cleat $60.00
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=57

I like that better then drilling holes in my boat . I just had my backstay adjuster delivered from Gaurhaer , found the service and follow up exceptional.

 

[DAVA390]

That was gonna be my reply also,keep it simple,clamp to the rail.

 

[thinwater]

I would hesitate to use a cam cleat for something that MUST not come loose when you are away. If the furler line ever shakes out, you will be lucky if all it does is ruin the sail (which it will do for certain). Use either a horn cleat or jammer for better security, IMHO.

 

[C22BC]

I would hesitate to use a cam cleat for something that MUST not come loose when you are away. If the furler line ever shakes out, you will be lucky if all it does is ruin the sail (which it will do for certain). Use either a horn cleat or jammer for better security, IMHO.

I get that , I plan to give a couple wraps on the factory horn cleat over the jib sheet at the end of the day plus probably a an extra line or ball bungee on the furled sail itself when I leave it for the week.
Angus

 

[Gunni]

The way a head sail goes loose and destructive is the wind catches a loose edge above the sheet wraps, pulls any slack out of your furled sail, inflates the sail and starts generating increasing load on your furler and the boat in general. Stuff starts happening. Short of dropping your headsail or hoisting a jib sock a furling headsail remains a storm liability, cleat or no cleat. What I don't understand is loading my stanchions with the furling loads I typically see. Seems like a recipe for loose stanchions and deck leaks. Perhaps it works better for small boats.

 

[rpwillia]

I would hesitate to use a cam cleat for something that MUST not come loose when you are away. If the furler line ever shakes out, you will be lucky if all it does is ruin the sail (which it will do for certain). Use either a horn cleat or jammer for better security, IMHO.

Have to disagree here. When is use the cam cleat is not needed. When the jib is furled up there is very little windage and I have never had a problem with the cam cleat coming loose even with some of the storms we get on the Potomac. Plus the Garhauer gear is wickedly solid and over built.

 

[Meriachee]

After replacing the bow rail on our 270, I'd have to agree with Gunni. Most of the rails are not through bolted, and while they look and feel strong, they are not as tough as people think. If you're going to mount a load carrying appliance to one, I'd mount it right at the deck level. It's not so much about how good Guido builds stuff (we have lots of their product, and I agree) it's about what you're mounting that stuff to.

 

[Dalliance]

Like Gunni and Meriacee, I do not like the idea of putting that kind of load on a stanchion.

I lived for a number of years with just the horn cleat on the coaming and it was always awkward when I needed to furl in the genoa when the wind picked up. Like I needed a third hand. I added a cam cleat on the outside of the coaming and love it. I still also cleat the line on the horn cleat, but the cam cleat provides the third hand than allows me to do that with the furler line under load.

Back to your question about attachment: Absolutely NOT just screws. They will rip out when the line is under a serious load and it will be at the worst time possible. Through bolting with just washers might be OK. I think the best way to attach the cam cleat is to epoxy a 1/4" fiberglass backing plate to the backside of the coaming and then through bolt with washers and butyl sealant. That's what I did. Metal backing plates are fine too.

I don't have a fairlead on the cam cleat because it doesn't work for me personally (I often pull from a standing position.) and I think it limits options for crew position if you are not furling yourself from the helm. Your choice. May be fine on your boat.

A ratchet block at the aft end of the furler line is a big help too.

Edit: Found a photo of my set up - for what it's worth. The configuration for your Catalina 25 will no doubt be different.