Install cleat on Toe-rail???

[Ed H]

This spring I added an anchor roller on the bow and had to move the single large cleat to the port side of the foredeck. Now I want to install cleats on the toe-rail near the bow by incorporating an existing toe-rail bolt and then drilling a new hole to secure each cleat. Has anyone tried this? I am concerned that about leaks since the bolts will go through the toe-rail and the hull/deck joint. Would that be a problem? The new anchor roller is visible in the pic. (Sorry about the quality of the pic- I pulled it from a video) Thanks. Ed H

 

[rufus1138]

i would set it up like the h-30, cut a window in the toe rail and fair it off smooth and round on both sides for a fairlead then place a large cleat aft at the side of the deck, repeat on opposite side.

 

[Jeff]

For our mid-ship cleats a section of the toe rail is cut out. The cleat bolts thru the toe rail and the washers and nuts screw on from underneath. The leading and trailing edges of the toe rail are ramped to minimize the chance of catching a line. The exposed fiberglass was sealed with epoxy. Then used 4200 sealant for the bolts. Sorry I don't have a pic for you.

 

[braol]

For peace of mind you could reinforce the bolted area with a backing plate of some kind. Less is not more in this case...especially if you are looking to use your cleats for any kind of anchor line attach point.

 

[Ed H]

i would set it up like the h-30, cut a window in the toe rail and fair it off smooth and round on both sides for a fairlead then place a large cleat aft at the side of the deck, repeat on opposite side.

Is the cleat mounted on the deck or on the toe rail? I do not want to drill any more holes in the deck in that area.

 

[Ed H]

For peace of mind you could reinforce the bolted area with a backing plate of some kind. Less is not more in this case...especially if you are looking to use your cleats for any kind of anchor line attach point.

I feel that the toe rail/joint is plenty strong; I will use large SS fender washers on the bolts... My main concern is leaks

 

[Ed H]

For our mid-ship cleats a section of the toe rail is cut out. The cleat bolts thru the toe rail and the washers and nuts screw on from underneath. The leading and trailing edges of the toe rail are ramped to minimize the chance of catching a line. The exposed fiberglass was sealed with epoxy. Then used 4200 sealant for the bolts. Sorry I don't have a pic for you.

I plan on cutting off the vertical section of the toe rail in the immediate vicinity of the cleats and finishing it as smooth as possible ... I don't know about using 4200 or "life caulk" (or whatever it is called). I think the bolts will hold the cleats; I am more interested in the sealing properties than the adhesive factor.

 

[H30Gary]

I'm sure 4200 would seal just fine. I personally also like the butyl tape sold on this site. It seals really well and remains resilient forever.

 

[rufus1138]

life caulk will last longer than the butyl tape but the tape is much easier to use, op the h30 has the cleats on the deck away from the toe rail/deck joint i like this option because there is only one thing to seal and it should be nice and stout as well as allowing you more room for a fair lead on the dock lines.

 

[Stu Jackson]

life caulk will last longer than the butyl tape

I agree butyl is easier to use, but why would you say this, given Maine Sail's butyl presentation?

 

[rufus1138]

ive seen it in hardware installations and i would only use the tape for windows and i would still use a liquid sealant like life caulk for the hardware, mainly the butyl tape is great for anything where you need a press seal between two flat surfaces and want it to look very clean, it has difficulty if either bedding surface is not totally flat and it wont seal very effectively around hardware and certainly doesnt provide the penetration that you get with life caulk around hardware like thru-hulls and deck hardware.

 

[Stu Jackson]

I wouldn't use butyl tape for windows or for thru hulls.

It is perfect for bedding deck hardware, even if the edges are uneven and not flat because you can build up as many layers as you desire.

Before the OP makes up his mind, he oughta read Maine Sail's butyl tape writeup.

 

[Bob S]

How do you plan on locating them? I bought a pair of Schaefer open base cleats that I will be mounting to my toe rail. Once bolted they’ll never be moved. I’m concerned I won’t locate them properly.

 

[Ed H]

Hi Stu- I read and respect all of Maine Sail's posts... but this will be a metal-on-metal connection. I guess I could counter sink the bolt holes on the toe rail to give some room for a sealing ring to form...

 

[Ed H]

Hey Bob- I was going to place them about 4 toe rail bolts back from the front of the bow; so the other toe rail bolts will help add to the strength.
Am I overlooking something with respect to the location?

 

[Bob S]

Ed,
I'm sorry I hijacked your thread. I was thinking of a midship cleat. Most people add an adjustable cleat to there jib car which makes it easy to find the optimal location. In your case (bow) the location isn't as important. You might want to check out RichH bridle suggestion in locating yours.
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=1051958&highlight=Bridle
Good luck!