Hi Everyone. Quick question. Is it possible to replace and draw new wires through the internal wiring runs on the Vega, in particular the Series 1? Thanks - Jeff.
Inbuilt wiring on Vegas.
- Thread starter reefmagnet
- Start date
Jeff,
I was only able to pull new wire through the channels in the ceiling of the main cabin between the lights and the switch near the companionway. I'm assuming the switch is in the same position on the Series 1. I have a Series 2. It was a little harder to pull the wire from the switch to the bottom of the back bulkhead to the switch because all the wires run through that channel also. I had to strip the outside protective cover that covers the two wires to get them through. Also, I used #14 wire which is a little overkill for the lights, but that's just me. I couldn't get the other wires to budge at all to try and replace them, but the nice thing is all of those wires can be run behind the wood trim that hides the deck to hull bolts.
I don't have a lot of detail on pulling the wires through in the pictures on my website, but there are a couple in the main cabin rebuild section. One of the pictures is a little misleading though. I attached the new wire to the end of the old wire and used that to pull it through. In the picture of pulling the wire that goes from the switch to the breaker box, the picture shows the new wire connected to the old at the ceiling. It got stuck pulling it that way and I had to change and go from the bottom up and remove the outer cover. Those wires are really the only ones you can't hide so it worked out fine for me. I hope that helps.
Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
www.ric-maxfield.net
I was only able to pull new wire through the channels in the ceiling of the main cabin between the lights and the switch near the companionway. I'm assuming the switch is in the same position on the Series 1. I have a Series 2. It was a little harder to pull the wire from the switch to the bottom of the back bulkhead to the switch because all the wires run through that channel also. I had to strip the outside protective cover that covers the two wires to get them through. Also, I used #14 wire which is a little overkill for the lights, but that's just me. I couldn't get the other wires to budge at all to try and replace them, but the nice thing is all of those wires can be run behind the wood trim that hides the deck to hull bolts.
I don't have a lot of detail on pulling the wires through in the pictures on my website, but there are a couple in the main cabin rebuild section. One of the pictures is a little misleading though. I attached the new wire to the end of the old wire and used that to pull it through. In the picture of pulling the wire that goes from the switch to the breaker box, the picture shows the new wire connected to the old at the ceiling. It got stuck pulling it that way and I had to change and go from the bottom up and remove the outer cover. Those wires are really the only ones you can't hide so it worked out fine for me. I hope that helps.
Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
www.ric-maxfield.net
I was able to pull wires too. I switched everything to LEDs so the current
draw is minimal. I could have used 22 gauge, but that is pretty small and
"fragile." So I used 18 gauge and that went easily. The original wiring
looks like 16 gauge. What I did was to first pull tag lines through (by
attaching some nylon string to the original wires -- this is the kind of
string used to lay out plots. Mine is yellow and is available in any big
hardware or box store). When I then pull the wires through I first wrap the
wire with a little tape, then I tape the string to the tape on the wire,
that way there is better grab. I sometimes pull a second tag line along
with them. That way if I ever want to pull a second wire or if I lose the
first line when pulling, I am all set. I usually just leave the second
string in there, who knows what I might want to pull in a year!!
draw is minimal. I could have used 22 gauge, but that is pretty small and
"fragile." So I used 18 gauge and that went easily. The original wiring
looks like 16 gauge. What I did was to first pull tag lines through (by
attaching some nylon string to the original wires -- this is the kind of
string used to lay out plots. Mine is yellow and is available in any big
hardware or box store). When I then pull the wires through I first wrap the
wire with a little tape, then I tape the string to the tape on the wire,
that way there is better grab. I sometimes pull a second tag line along
with them. That way if I ever want to pull a second wire or if I lose the
first line when pulling, I am all set. I usually just leave the second
string in there, who knows what I might want to pull in a year!!
Peter,
You always amaze me at the things you find on the Internet. I think my problem with not being able to remove the other wires that run forward to the head is when I repaired the dry rot for my hand rails, some of the penetrating epoxy or adhesive filler epoxy got into the channel and onto the wires. They wouldn't budge no matter how hard I tried, which was the exact opposite to the wires to the main cabin lights. Not that it's a big issue, but I wasn't thinking about the wires when I repaired the dry rot.
Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
www.ric-maxfield.net
You always amaze me at the things you find on the Internet. I think my problem with not being able to remove the other wires that run forward to the head is when I repaired the dry rot for my hand rails, some of the penetrating epoxy or adhesive filler epoxy got into the channel and onto the wires. They wouldn't budge no matter how hard I tried, which was the exact opposite to the wires to the main cabin lights. Not that it's a big issue, but I wasn't thinking about the wires when I repaired the dry rot.
Ric
s/v Blue Max
#2692
www.ric-maxfield.net
Thanks for the info guys. I am doing some rewiring and was wanting to add
an extra wire to the bunch coming out already. This extra wire is for a
deck light mounted to the mast. Just being pedantic I suppose, because the
wires are coming out for the other mast mounted lights and this would keep
them all neatly together. I will be bringing wires up along the starboard
side, but mainly a heavy + and - that will act both as the supply for the
anchor winch and also as a bus for other forward mounted stuff like a fan,
power sockets etc.
an extra wire to the bunch coming out already. This extra wire is for a
deck light mounted to the mast. Just being pedantic I suppose, because the
wires are coming out for the other mast mounted lights and this would keep
them all neatly together. I will be bringing wires up along the starboard
side, but mainly a heavy + and - that will act both as the supply for the
anchor winch and also as a bus for other forward mounted stuff like a fan,
power sockets etc.
I would suggest that you keep the windlass wiring separate from the fans
etc. When not in use the windlass should be isolated close to the source -
the batteries. If you have ever seen the damage a shorted windlass switch
can do you would understand.
etc. When not in use the windlass should be isolated close to the source -
the batteries. If you have ever seen the damage a shorted windlass switch
can do you would understand.
Thanks Brian for the heads up . That is a very good point I hadn't thought
of. In fact I do this with the winch on my 4wd. I am going to stick
breakers back towards the batteries but I wouldn't use them as isolators. I
guess it wouldn't be too inconvenient to put an isolator midships for the
purpose. I'm intending to put the solenoids for the winch in the same
location anyway (the shelf above the head).
of. In fact I do this with the winch on my 4wd. I am going to stick
breakers back towards the batteries but I wouldn't use them as isolators. I
guess it wouldn't be too inconvenient to put an isolator midships for the
purpose. I'm intending to put the solenoids for the winch in the same
location anyway (the shelf above the head).