In boom reefing lines or?

[saltysailor]

Hope there's not a limit on questions but I just really want to learn.
Looking at my boom I've found that it contains three lines. The one in the center is the outhaul. The other two I believe must be reefing lines. I'm guessing that one is for the first reef clew point and the other would be for the second reef clew point. Does this make sense?
I assume I could assign either the port of starboard line to either reef point.


boomendbottom2 by picndicular, on Flickr

Here's a photo of the exit hole and cam cleat for the reefing line.

portboomcamcleaat by picndicular, on Flickr
Besides the line looking like it's not really caught in the cam, does this look like it's set up correctly? Do I need to cleat the line off after this cam as well? The cam seems to hold the line good as it is.

and finally to make this more convoluted...
I'm wondering what these hooks are for that are on both sides of the gooseneck. I thought that they were for running the reef tack through for a real quick hookup but the sail slides bunch up too much to pull the sail down to where the reef tack can hook onto. Cunningham hook?
porttackhook by picndicular, on Flickr

Thanks again

 

[SailArkansas]

I have the same reefing hooks on both sides of my gooseneck but I use the Strong Track System on the main so the stack is too high to use the hooks effectively. I suspect that is the case on a lot of boats. Can't help you with the internal reefing lines. I haven't seen that done though it would make for a neat set-up.

 

[Joe]

Does your boat have a topping lift. One of the lines may be for that feature, otherwise a pair of reefing lines they are. A setup like that requires a loose foot... or an eystrap on the boom, because after the line goes up through the reef cringle it comes straight down where it is tied in a loop around the spar.

Regarding the cleat at the mast end of the boom... I think you have it backwards. The white sheave and the cam cleat should be reversed so the line rolls over the sheave. That way you can get some extra purchase when you set it by pulling the line down and back.

The reefing hooks on the gooseneck are designed to be used with a "reefing strap" or "floppy cringle" which would be a length of doubled webbing with pressed rings sewn in both ends strung through the luff reef cringle. This allows you to pull the reef tack down and secure it with the strap onto the hook.... thus allowing you to leave the sail in the track.

 

[Gary_H]

Yes those are your reefing lines. My boat is set up exactly the same.

 

[Ted]

I have the same Kenyon boom and outhaul fitting and recently upgraded my gooseneck fitting which I'll describe later. You are correct in the fact that you have the outhaul sheave at the center flanked by two reefing line sheaves. You can dead end the reefing lines to the boom on port and starboard with an eye strap. Alternately, you can drill a hole in the boom and pass the reefing line through the boom and tie a stopper knot in it or install a track with an adjustable eye. It does not matter which reefing sheave you use for your first or second reef as long as you dead end the reefing line to the opposite side of the boom.

The gooseneck fitting has two spring loaded cams, one on each side used to secure the reefing lines. Your photo shows the reefing line passing between the cam and the small white sheave. This is not correct. It should pass forward of the sheave and then it can be lead to a block and organizer to be lead aft to the cockpit if so desired. The problem with this design is that when you want to shake out a reef, the reefing line will have a tendency to get jammed by the spring loaded cam cleat. If you pull the reefing line out away from the cam cleat, the reefing line will get hung up at the hole in the gooseneck fitting where the line exits the boom. There is a fix to this issue which Kenyon has addressed fairly simply. They have designed a plate that connects the sheave to the cam which prevents the reefing line from falling off of the sheave. They also did away with the spring loaded cam and replaced it with a cam cleat with a small handle which is held in place by friction. Now you can completely disengage the cam cleat from the reefing line when you shake out a reef. Rig-Rite carries the conversion kit if you're interested. Part number New-Style Double Reef Cam Conversion Kit for E-Section: K-11443

http://rigrite.com/Spars/Kenyon_Spars/E-boom.html#Esection Internal Gooseneck Assemblies

The reefing horns will work with just a simple reefing cringle in your main or with reefing rings attached to your main with short straps. You must remove a few of the luff slugs from the mast groove in order to attach the cringle to the horn or else the sail will bunch up as you have found out.

 

[saltysailor]

First, thanks for all the replies.

Joe: This would make a good option for a topping lift but I already have a boomkicker.
I also thought that the order of the cam and sheave seem backwards. That's one of the things that made me question what the whole setup was for. This morning I took out both the sheave and the cam to clean and inspect. The cam has a spring that catches on a tiny hole in the boom and this hole is only on the cam location so it doesn't seem to be be reversed although your logic seems to make way more sense.

Ted: My boom actually says aerospar from carlsbad, ca. Wow, great info although I dont totally understand all of it. First my boom already has the dead eyes on them and I'll check where they are located in relationship to the position of the clew when reefed and then I'll know which is which. 45º -ish down/back pull right?

Regarding the line/sheave/cam not being set up correctly I'm very appreciative of your description but confused. If the line doesn't go through the cam nor are the placement of the cam and sheave backwards like Joe suggested, I don't understand your description. here's a photo with the red where I think you suggest.

sheave by picndicular, on Flickr

With the line going the "Red" route, I dont' see how the cam comes into play.
I do undertand going through a block and organizer to take a line back to the cockpit. It's just the route you suggest the line goes before it goes down to a block.

I'll check out the newer hardware from rig-rite but before I buy anything, i'd like to understand the existing system. Thanks a million.
jared

 

[Ted]

Jared, your latest photo showing the red reefing line running down the forward side ((left side) of the small sheave on the gooseneck fitting is correct. The cam cleat should jam the reefing line between the cam and the gooseneck fitting just above the cam not between the cam and the sheave as you previously had it rigged. The cam should be forced to spring in a clockwise direction. The problem I was describing was when the reefing line gets pulled out of the cam. It gets caught between the right side of the cam and the exit hole in the gooseneck casting directly aft of the cam which will unintentionally prevent the reefing line to run free.

Even though your spar might say Aerospar, it was made by Kenyon and are the identical fittings at both ends. Look at the end of your outhaul fitting. There will be a "k" cast into it which is the Kenyon logo.

 

[saltysailor]

aha! makes perfect sense. I'm going to the boat tonight to check this out.
thanks
jared