In boom reefing design

[Atlantic Phil]

I recently bought a 1988 legend 37. I like to singlehand but I also like to have reefing readily available especially with the relatively large main. There are two areas that I need help with. I'm not sure how the lines at mast end of boom are intended to be rigged AND I'd like to better understand what the inside of the boom looks like. I am assuming that it only requires the one line at the mast end to be used to reef - as in a single line reefing set up. I know there are two lines but I am hoping that it works like a single line arrangement.

If you can show me any schematics or hand drawings of the internal workings and also how to rig the lines at the mast I would be most grateful.
Phil

 

[Sailfanatic]

The video below shows the details of single line reefing on a P31-2. If the boom caps on your Legend 37 have the same exits as the Pearson boom, I would set your reefing lines up the same way as in the video. That setup works like a charm.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Attached is the OEM setup on my h40.5. This might be the same as your 37. The mainsail outhaul on my h40.5 had blocks inside the boom to increase the tension on the foot. I don't have a graphic of that handy.

 

[Atlantic Phil]

Thanks for the replies and info. I would like to have a set up like Rich shared but my actual arrangement is like Sailfanatic shared. sailfanatic's arrangement works well as shown in the video. I don't think mine would work as well and I'll have to fool around some more to reduce the friction. Putting the reef in is not as much of a problem as taking it out and raising the sail back up the mast. That is agonizing. I had a single line set up on a Frigate 36 that was all external and I could put in a reef from the cockpit in a couple of minutes and shake it out just as fast.

Really appreciate the replies.
Phil

 

[Rich Stidger]

When I was using my OEM reefing system, the friction of the lines through the sails was too much and made the process very hard and time-consuming.
So I tried a couple ways to secure a block to the leach of the sail. At first I tried a simple ring through the cringle with a block. That resulted in the block becoming twisted and the reefing line would jam. Then I machined some Delrin pieces that would attach on each side of the cringle. The block was secured to these Delrin disks so that it could not turn and twist the reefing line.
That system worked very well. I no longer use this system, but I still have the Delrin disks that are up for grabs if you wish.
See pix below-

 

[Windpilot]

Great idea with the delrin! I used some dyneema line to attach them, works so far with minimal twisting if any. Besides the friction it eliminates the chaffing issues I just had on a 2300 mile trip the saw reef lines chaffing through 3X at the clews.

 

[Sailfanatic]

Thanks for the replies and info. I would like to have a set up like Rich shared but my actual arrangement is like Sailfanatic shared. sailfanatic's arrangement works well as shown in the video. I don't think mine would work as well and I'll have to fool around some more to reduce the friction. Putting the reef in is not as much of a problem as taking it out and raising the sail back up the mast. That is agonizing. I had a single line set up on a Frigate 36 that was all external and I could put in a reef from the cockpit in a couple of minutes and shake it out just as fast.

Really appreciate the replies.
Phil

Phil,

My solution to removing the reef to raise the sail, at the end of the boom, pull the reefing line out of the boom by hand (ie undo the aft reef) then hyoist the main,. If the friction is still an issue, go forward to the mast and pull out the rest of the reef by hand, and the remainder of the hoist will be normal.

 

[Windpilot]

Phil,

My solution to removing the reef to raise the sail, at the end of the boom, pull the reefing line out of the boom by hand (ie undo the aft reef) then hyoist the main,. If the friction is still an issue, go forward to the mast and pull out the rest of the reef by hand, and the remainder of the hoist will be normal.

That's exactly what single line reefing is supposed to avoid and the only solution if your reefing setup is crappy.
Reducing friction with turning blocks, correct lines running at advantages angles through deck hardware aft also having a sail track system like Tides and you never leave the cockpit. I can reef on the fly so to say, just finished 2300 miles CA to Hawaii singlehandedly last week, you never want to leave the cockpit if necessary.

 

[Tally Ho]

I did something similar to @Rich Stidger…

The block reduces the friction significantly. I have one on the clew end as well.

My latest idea (no photo) is to attach the blocks with locking carabiners. That way I can easily remove the clew block if I want or move both blocks to the 2nd reef position (I only have 2 blocks at the moment).

Thinking of trying soft shackles instead of the metal carabiners though…

Greg

 

[Atlantic Phil]

Some great info here and by the sounds of it, I'm not the only one with this issue. I don't do long distance or much off shore, but I do solo a lot and leaving the cockpit is something I avoid if possible. I'll continue to work at the friction. Much appreciate all the replies and info though.
Hi Jim - haha!

Phil

 

[Hayden Watson]

And another way to rig the ball bearing block to the cringle. I like the soft shackle because it allows the block full freedom to find the correct angle.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Rehoisting is certainly harder than pulling in the reef period but as long as I remember To release the main sheet and the traveler, it rehoists relatively easily with the winch. On my c thirty tall rig I need to use the winch for that last 5 feet whether it's first toys are rehoisting the reef.