Impeller Problems

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Jul 8, 2004
155
Hunter 33.5 Portsmouth VA
I had a new impeller self destruct after less than 10 hours run time on my Yannie 2GM. The center hub seperated from the molded rubber leaving the blades imobile as the shaft turned. Naturally it happened in a narrow channel with little wind. A quick change out with a old spare and we made it home safely. My concern is this, we went thru a batch of bad impellers a few years ago when I had a 1GM. Has anyone else experienced problems with these impellers?
 

zeehag

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Mar 26, 2009
3,198
1976 formosa 41 yankee clipper santa barbara. ca.(not there)
I had a new impeller self destruct after less than 10 hours run time on my Yannie 2GM. The center hub seperated from the molded rubber leaving the blades imobile as the shaft turned. Naturally it happened in a narrow channel with little wind. A quick change out with a old spare and we made it home safely. My concern is this, we went thru a batch of bad impellers a few years ago when I had a 1GM. Has anyone else experienced problems with these impellers?
friend of mine on whose boat i sail has been having problems with yanmar impellers doing just the same thing--he buys his elsewhere now and has better luck....fair winds~~~~~_/)~~~~~~~~~
 
Oct 29, 2005
2,362
Hunter Marine 326 303 Singapore
you can put a longer screw through the impeller and core. that would ensure the shaft turns the impeller. i buy my Johson 09-810B impeller from chandlery not yanmar dealer.
 
Apr 22, 2009
342
Pearson P-31 Quantico
Test to see how much PRESSURE you have inside the water jacket. I was having "water pump problems" with my old impeller blown out to just little stubs. I put in a new impeller, still got HOT, and within a day blew out the new impeller.

Noting that this was not normal, I put in a new impeller and started disconnecting hoses, one port at a time, to discover that I had a nearly 100% blockage at the injector elbow.

To clear the port, I drilled through the elbow from the side opposite the port, reamed out the port using the drill tip, then tapped the outer hole with a 1/2" fine threaded tap, and used a short bolt to plug the hole.

Good luck
RobertLangDirect at Verizon dot net
 
Jan 1, 2009
371
Atlantic 42 Honolulu
i buy my Johson 09-810B impeller from chandlery not yanmar dealer.
Totally. In this case Johnson Pump is the OEM. I also use the F4B 09-810B (that's the "longer life with MC97" part). I know that not all 2gm20's have identical pumps so I'd double check the part number to make sure it is right for you. Anyway, the screw on the Johnson part goes all the way through the hub so you aren't likely to spin it before you blow off the blades even if there is some other problem. I'm pretty sure this is a good thing :)

And, good recovery! I keep a spare pump ready to swap out because that's quicker than changing the impeller on my set-up -- but still ain't quick...

--Tom.
 
May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
Same thing

Had the exact same thing happen to me earlier this year. Nearly new Yanmar impeller, spun the hub. Fortunately I wasn't in a narrow channel, but took a few minutes to figure out what was going on and get it changed. I no longer use the Yanmar impellers, and only buy the Johnsons. Exact same thing, except the Johnson has a screw that goes all the way through the impeller and hub, instead of the bonding thing that Yanmar does. When I replaced mine I asked the Yanmar distributor about this, and they would say nothing. Apparently if they have a problem, don't want to admit it. Have had no problem with the Johnson impellers. My local Yanmar dist. has both in stock, and they are exactly the same price. I have a 3GM, and am pretty sure it uses the same impeller as the 2GM.
 
D

Deadline2

Beware seals hazard

Quite right that 2GMs tend to have different pumps.

Some take O rings, some take paper seals. Don't do both together, as I did in April. Result was a tiny leak of air that denied water to the engine and led to cavitation and and an explosion of the exhaust hose for lack of water.
 
Dec 1, 1999
2,391
Hunter 28.5 Chesapeake Bay
Although the brand of the impeller is not mentioned in the original post, I presume it was a Yanmar impeller? This same problem used to be a fairly frequent one with the so-called blue "run dry" Globe impellers. While I have never had a problem with a Yanmar impeller, I did have a Yanmar/Mitsubishi water pump belt fail after a very short while. I recommend the use of Gates belts now.

Unfortunately, the consumer now does most of industry's Quality Control -- and usually at a time none of us would prefer. I suppose the lesson here is to buy the "best" quality products and inspect them often....
 
Mar 6, 2006
49
Catalina 34 Eastern Passage, N.S., Canada
Sea Water Pumps and Air Locks

Gentlemen, this is a recurring theme with sea water cooling pumps, it seems that for no apparent reason they work fine one season, and the next can't seem to overcome an airlock with a water head difference of 1 to 2 feet. This afternoon, after spending hours and $$$$ replacing seals in our Oberdorfer water pump, it worked beautifully going out, but after a couple of hours heeled at 15 to 20 degrees, the engine ran perfectly, but after a few minutes I noticed (as we arrived at our slip) that there was no water coming out our exhaust. Our engine is an M-25 Universal. Ived tightened every connection that I can find to ensure maximum suction by the pump. I am approaching desperation on this, has anyone discovered any solutions to this seemingly old problem. Any insite or suggestions are appreciated. (I don't want to hijack the thread but thought this is a related problem.

Best Regards,

Barry
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,996
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Oberdorfer pumps

Barry,

Sometimes heeling does it. You should be happy you don't have a Sherwood pump!

But here's what I wrote in Mainsheet magazine awhile ago (May 2008):

Among the interesting little “tidbits” of information that I’d remembered reading about on the C34 website had to do with cleaning out the raw water intake with a dinghy foot pump. On a nice mid-winter March sail with Ken Heyman, our treasurer who was here visiting, we had just left the South Beach Marina and were motoring over to see the “Lady Washington,” one of the tallships that regularly visits the Bay Area and has cannonball encounters of the close kind with fellow tallships. Since it was cold out, there seemed to be a bit more white smoke from the exhaust than usual, which I attributed to the lower air temperature. Upon checking the temperature gauge, we noted it was pegged and stopped the engine immediately. Ken and I went through a checklist of actions we could take. Sailing back to the marina was not among them, since there was no wind and the end of the ebb was setting us north towards the Bay Bridge. Thru hull strainer clear – check. Raw water entering – check, but a trickle and less than expected. Raw water pump impeller in one piece – check. Raw water pump turning – check. Spare raw water pump gasket to replace cover – check. Temperature gauge working properly – check. Hoses and thru hull clear – hmm… We got the dinghy foot pump out from the lazarette, replaced the strainer and opened the seacock. Because the arrangement of the hoses and the strainer on “Aquavite” aren’t configured to connect the pump there, we removed the hose from the raw water pump and used the dinghy pump at that end of the hose. That turned out to be actually be easier than trying to work under the head sink. There was significant resistance at first, but after setting the three way valve on the foot pump to a higher pressure setting, the pump started working. Whatever had been clogging either the thru hull or the line was flushed out. Once everything was reassembled, we started the engine and all was well. Lesson Learned: It pays to read the material on the website because you just never know when you’ll be faced with an insurmountable problem only to find out that one of our skippers had “been there – done that” and had most importantly reported it for all of us to know.
 
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