Because of the certain amount of debre in the water from all the rain we received my engine is over heating. This happened 2 years ago. The last time I paid a mechanic $350. Installing a new impeller should be easy. I would like to find out how to do that. Is there instrucitons somewhere that could help me.
Impeller Installation
- Thread starter rickyg
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the debre(sic) should never make it to the engine or impeller...you should have a strainer in line between the thru hull and the waterpump.....now if you or the PO removed or allowed the basket to disintegrate you may have a point here...
If the impeller was changed 2 years ago, you are likely due for a new one...as they typically last but a year with normal use..
$350 is a bit steep to have one changed, as the part is less than $50 and a competent mechanic should be able to change one in less than an hour..
I suspect you have a Yanmar engine, and the impeller housing should be very easily identified. You will need but some basic hand tools, a new impeller and some rags...
OOHHH, be sure to close the thru hull to this device FIRST.
There should be some step by step directions, perhaps with photos, on this site once you identify the engine
be sure to verify that the pump ships water when you are finished, else you will burn up the new one in record time.
If the impeller was changed 2 years ago, you are likely due for a new one...as they typically last but a year with normal use..
$350 is a bit steep to have one changed, as the part is less than $50 and a competent mechanic should be able to change one in less than an hour..
I suspect you have a Yanmar engine, and the impeller housing should be very easily identified. You will need but some basic hand tools, a new impeller and some rags...
OOHHH, be sure to close the thru hull to this device FIRST.
There should be some step by step directions, perhaps with photos, on this site once you identify the engine
be sure to verify that the pump ships water when you are finished, else you will burn up the new one in record time.
It can be from several different causes. I think the first thing you want to do is bribe a handy dock neighbor to help you. First, you will want to check the raw-water intake and clean the strainer. They are notorious for clogging. I purchased a gun cleaner for cleaning the through hull.
If it is clean, follow the raw water intake hose to the raw water pump. On your 3GM, it's a quick job to replace it. Just remove the screws (after turning off the raw water through hull), get a long nose pliers and work at pulling the vanes around the shaft. It will work out. Notice the direction of the vanes, because you will want to put it back in the same way.
If there are vanes missing, you will need to pull the front of the heat exchanger to get them out. To re-install, lubricate the interior with mineral oil and use a zip tie to compress the vanes. You will pull it off once you get it started on the shaft.
Then there is one more thing to check, and that is the water flow out of the heat exchanger into the exhaust elbow. I made a habit of cleaning that out by running a small spring in a drill chuck using carburetor cleaner every year when I replaced my impeller (you can purchase it here on the Ship's Store).
Anyhow, this all sounds complicated, but it isn't. However, you will want to have someone help walk you through it the first time. It's worth about a cold six pack or a decent wine. Good luck!
If it is clean, follow the raw water intake hose to the raw water pump. On your 3GM, it's a quick job to replace it. Just remove the screws (after turning off the raw water through hull), get a long nose pliers and work at pulling the vanes around the shaft. It will work out. Notice the direction of the vanes, because you will want to put it back in the same way.
If there are vanes missing, you will need to pull the front of the heat exchanger to get them out. To re-install, lubricate the interior with mineral oil and use a zip tie to compress the vanes. You will pull it off once you get it started on the shaft.
Then there is one more thing to check, and that is the water flow out of the heat exchanger into the exhaust elbow. I made a habit of cleaning that out by running a small spring in a drill chuck using carburetor cleaner every year when I replaced my impeller (you can purchase it here on the Ship's Store).
Anyhow, this all sounds complicated, but it isn't. However, you will want to have someone help walk you through it the first time. It's worth about a cold six pack or a decent wine. Good luck!
Check out "Don Casey's Library" on the BoatUS reference website: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/09.htm
That is a nice explanation of how to change the impeller. But, some of the Yanmar engines have the water pump mounted in such a way that it is near impossible to change the impeller without removing the pump (Yanmar 3HM35F for example).
Impeller change...
on my 3GMF I close the water intake valve, unbolt the pump bracket, loosen the hose clamps, and spin the pump around so that the backing plate is facing out. I replaced the phillips head screws with SS bolts and can now remove the backing plate with a socket on a screwdriver handle.
The impeller slides right off the shaft. I put a touch of waterproof grease on the shaft and reinstall the key in the slot then slide the impeller back on (flexing the blades to get it to go into the pump housing). Then its the reverse of removal to put it back together and back in place on the engine.
on my 3GMF I close the water intake valve, unbolt the pump bracket, loosen the hose clamps, and spin the pump around so that the backing plate is facing out. I replaced the phillips head screws with SS bolts and can now remove the backing plate with a socket on a screwdriver handle.
The impeller slides right off the shaft. I put a touch of waterproof grease on the shaft and reinstall the key in the slot then slide the impeller back on (flexing the blades to get it to go into the pump housing). Then its the reverse of removal to put it back together and back in place on the engine.
On the 3GM Yanmar (what you should have in your Vision 32) the belt driven raw water pump is attached to a bracket that is then attached to the front of the engine. (slightly below and to the left of the crank pulley when facing aft) The fastest way I've found to change the impeller is:
Loosen both hose clamps holding the intake and discharge hoses onto the hose barbs on the pump body. Loosen by lightly twisting but do not remove the hoses.
Remove the two long (about 4") bolts that hold the bracket to the engine.
(not the ones that hold the pump to the bracket)
With the v-belt slipped off the pump pulley but still on the crank pulley, now flip the pump 180 degrees around so you are now looking at what was the back of the pump.
Remove the machine screws or small hex bolts holding the impeller cover (don't drop them in the bilge) and remove the cover along with the gasket or o-ring.
The impeller will be staring at you. Carefully wiggle it out with a pair of pliers.
The new impeller should come with a new gasket or o-ring and shouldn't be much more than $20-25.00
Slide the new impeller on the shaft. The shaft is slotted for the impeller. You can just use your fingers to bend the impeller blades so they will slide into place. Don't worry about whether you have them flopped in the right direction. The second you start the motor they'll flip around the right way.
Now you pretty much reverse the procedure, installing the new o-ring or gasket under the cover plate and getting everything back in place and tightened up.
You'll need to re-tension the belt (one of the long bolts you removed provides adjustment) and make sure you turn the water back on.
That's really about it. Once you've done it a few times it shouldn't take much more than 15-20 mins.
Loosen both hose clamps holding the intake and discharge hoses onto the hose barbs on the pump body. Loosen by lightly twisting but do not remove the hoses.
Remove the two long (about 4") bolts that hold the bracket to the engine.
(not the ones that hold the pump to the bracket)
With the v-belt slipped off the pump pulley but still on the crank pulley, now flip the pump 180 degrees around so you are now looking at what was the back of the pump.
Remove the machine screws or small hex bolts holding the impeller cover (don't drop them in the bilge) and remove the cover along with the gasket or o-ring.
The impeller will be staring at you. Carefully wiggle it out with a pair of pliers.
The new impeller should come with a new gasket or o-ring and shouldn't be much more than $20-25.00
Slide the new impeller on the shaft. The shaft is slotted for the impeller. You can just use your fingers to bend the impeller blades so they will slide into place. Don't worry about whether you have them flopped in the right direction. The second you start the motor they'll flip around the right way.
Now you pretty much reverse the procedure, installing the new o-ring or gasket under the cover plate and getting everything back in place and tightened up.
You'll need to re-tension the belt (one of the long bolts you removed provides adjustment) and make sure you turn the water back on.
That's really about it. Once you've done it a few times it shouldn't take much more than 15-20 mins.
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