Ignition Switch

[Boomer2it]

So hopefully I explain this correctly. My battery switch (off/1/2/both) 1 position starting battery, 2 house, is connected correctly and operates properly. It's the ignition switch that has me perplexed. I installed a new ignition and wired it was it was before buying the boat. When I get to the boat turn battery to 1, the oil pressure alarm goes off (very loud) whether I turn the ignition switch on or not, actually you can start to boat with no key needed at all. Once engine is started and oil pressure builds alarm goes off as expected. My question is.....why isn't the ignition switch controlling the starting procedure. As its setup now the ignition when "turned to on position" only controls power to gauges. I know it has to do with how it's connected on the back of the ignition switch and to the starter I assume?? I just can't seem to figure it out.
The most annoying part is the loud alarm before I get engine started and when I turn engine off and have to race down to battery selector switch.

 

[Stu Jackson]

You've posted this three times already. You don't need to. Why? Because many of us read the new post feature of this great forum, that precludes the need to post in multiple subforums. Here: Recent Posts (old style)

As far as your problem is concerned, your ignition switch needs to be in series before the alarm wiring and should only engage that alarm when the ignition switch is turned on. Now, your alarm is being fed directly from the 1-2-B switch, i.e., battery power.

Fix the wiring.

 

[Tally Ho]

Are you sure you wired the switch exactly as the old one? Is the switch the same (Same connections, in the same location)?

What engine do you have?


Greg

 

[Boomer2it]

You've posted this three times already. You don't need to. Why? Because many of us read the new post feature of this great forum, that precludes the need to post in multiple subforums. Here: Recent Posts (old style)

As far as your problem is concerned, your ignition switch needs to be in series before the alarm wiring and should only engage that alarm when the ignition switch is turned on. Now, your alarm is being fed directly from the 1-2-B switch, i.e., battery power.

Fix the wiring.

I originally posted in the Hunter Cherubini section, but then figured I should post in the general ask all sailors section, which the site corrected, but thanks for your expert forum location advice. As far as the wiring, yes I am trying to fix it, hence my question, have a great weekend......stu

 

[Stu Jackson]

My question is.....why isn't the ignition switch controlling the starting procedure.

As far as the wiring, yes I am trying to fix it, hence my question, have a great weekend......stu

Aw shucks, you did ask...or seemed to. Good luck.

 

[Ward H]

I agree with @Tally Ho , either you didn't wire the new switch exactly as the old or the new switch doesn't have the same connections.

Basically you have one connection on the switch that the battery connects to. You have another connection which the loads connect to, loads being the panel gages and starting circuit.

It sounds like you have the battery on the correct connection and the wire for the panel gages on the correct connection but you have the ignition circuit wire on the same connection as the battery so it is bypassing the switch. That needs to be moved to the same connection point as the panel gages.

Here is where photos would be valuable.

 

[Boomer2it]

I agree with @Tally Ho , either you didn't wire the new switch exactly as the old or the new switch doesn't have the same connections.

Basically you have one connection on the switch that the battery connects to. You have another connection which the loads connect to, loads being the panel gages and starting circuit.

It sounds like you have the battery on the correct connection and the wire for the panel gages on the correct connection but you have the ignition circuit wire on the same connection as the battery so it is bypassing the switch. That needs to be moved to the same connection point as the panel gages.

Here is where photos would be valuable.

I'll take some pictures next time I am at the boat. It is making more sense now that you guys have explained it a bit. Sounds like I have the ignition power wire directly connected to the battery, which would explain why it alarms when battery selector is in position 1 or both, (not 2 house). Looking at a wiring diagram it looks like ignition power should be connected to the starter silinoid. Will have to take a closer look and see exactly where to connect on starter. That would explain why you can start the engine whether or not the igintion key is on or off, actually don't need a key at all right now lol.

 

[captcoho]

So hopefully I explain this correctly. My battery switch (off/1/2/both) 1 position starting battery, 2 house, is connected correctly and operates properly. It's the ignition switch that has me perplexed. I installed a new ignition and wired it was it was before buying the boat. When I get to the boat turn battery to 1, the oil pressure alarm goes off (very loud) whether I turn the ignition switch on or not, actually you can start to boat with no key needed at all. Once engine is started and oil pressure builds alarm goes off as expected. My question is.....why isn't the ignition switch controlling the starting procedure. As its setup now the ignition when "turned to on position" only controls power to gauges. I know it has to do with how it's connected on the back of the ignition switch and to the starter I assume?? I just can't seem to figure it out.
The most annoying part is the loud alarm before I get engine started and when I turn engine off and have to race down to battery selector switch.

Probably because you wire the switch wrong putting the alarm on with the power wire and not the ignition/ alternator field side of the switch

 

[jviss]

This is a funny thread. First, the answer to "why is this happening" is obviously that its wired in correctly. I know, I'm sure this occurred to you.

It's also funny, at least to me, because we call it an ignition switch, even though there's no ignition system for a diesel. But I get it, that's what we call it, the same as we call the speed control lever the throttle, even though diesels don't have a throttle.

My recommendations:

1. Get the engine wiring schematic. These are usually available online for free, even for Yanmar!
2. Know that the switch is used to energize
   1. the instrument panel
   2. the starter circuit
   3. alarms

The behavior you describe indicates you just have the engine circuit on the wrong side of the switch.

 

[Boomer2it]

here are a few pics, from what I have looked at as far as wire diagrams seems to be correct.

The only issue is the key itself doesn't control the solenoid, it will start with or without the key once you turn battery selector to position 1 (start battery) you can start without turning key or even inserting key. All gauges work properly when key is turned to on position, glow plug works properly, starter is connected properly to battery. Again the annoying part is muffling the oil pressure alarm while heating glow plug and then starting, once started and oil pressure builds everything is fine. I guess I can live with the oil pressure alarm and just muffle with a rag. No need to mess with things if it's working properly.

 

[jssailem]

There is a wiring / connection issue. The starter solenoid may be wired to a connecttion tha tis hot the minute you turn on the battery. If thei is the case when the engine starts, the starter may continue to run. This will burn up the starter.

Just looking at pictures will not resolve the quesiton. You need to trace the individual wire. Start at the solenoid on the starter. Trace the wire back to the key switch. It may go direct or to a relay. Continue the trace beyond any relay.

Be sure that the wire is not on the same connection as the battery wire that powers the switch.

 

[JoeWhite]

Turn the battery switch to 1. Then disconnect each wire one at a time until buzzer stops sounding. Then measure the voltages of terminals. Turn the key and measure voltages. Connect this wire to the post that did not have voltage until you turned on the key.

 

[JamesG161]

I guess I can live with the oil pressure alarm and just muffle with a rag

Fix the Alarm issue. You might wonder why an Alarm was installed.

Muffling the Alarm is not a good thing
Jim...

 

[Boomer2it]

Fixed the issue, took my time and took a close look at the wires on the back of the key switch, AC and 30 wires were not in the correct position. Now key works and I can turn the battery switch to starting battery position without having to scramble on deck and get things started before waking up the anchorage with an ear piercing alarm. And yes the alarm works properly when key is turned on, though I will muffle with a cloth while warming engine with glow plug.

 

[Tally Ho]

Fixed the issue, took my time and took a close look at the wires on the back of the key switch, AC and 30 wires were not in the correct position. Now key works and I can turn the battery switch to starting battery position without having to scramble on deck and get things started before waking up the anchorage with an ear piercing alarm. And yes the alarm works properly when key is turned on, though I will muffle with a cloth while warming engine with glow plug.

Glad you figured it out.


Greg