I was installing a fuel gauge and could not get it to function (read). After connecting, and reconnecting the gauge, my ignition switch is now not working. No power at the terminals checking with volt meter. It is as if a fuse or breaker-switch cut power to the ignition. Batteries are good, cabin power is working but nothing works at the ignition (audio, lights, power) I assume something shorted since the ignition panel did work during the testing for the gauge. Any suggestions before hiring a service technician? I was able to hot-start the engine from the battery to the ignition contact.
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Check for an open circuit
Not trying to pass myself off as an expert, but having spent a good part of my career as an electrical technician, I can give you a few possibilities. Sounds like you have an open circuit that is probably caused by a bad connection or bad splice somewhere. I don't think Hunter would have hidden a fuse anywhere as they would rely on the CB to deal with any shorts. One good place to start is to check for a bad wire terminal connection, I have seen bad terminal crimp connections cause more problems then anything else (sometimes on equipment that has come straight from the factory). Just a slight movement will break the connection. If this is a used boat, you should also check for any equipment the PO may have spliced into the circuit. If he did a poor job of splicing (using barrel connectors or twist connectors), you may have a problem there. Many times I have seen a small change in load or wire movement start a chain reaction on weak or poor connections that resulted in the situation you describe. Just some things to check before you start shelling out the big bucks for a service tech.
Not trying to pass myself off as an expert, but having spent a good part of my career as an electrical technician, I can give you a few possibilities. Sounds like you have an open circuit that is probably caused by a bad connection or bad splice somewhere. I don't think Hunter would have hidden a fuse anywhere as they would rely on the CB to deal with any shorts. One good place to start is to check for a bad wire terminal connection, I have seen bad terminal crimp connections cause more problems then anything else (sometimes on equipment that has come straight from the factory). Just a slight movement will break the connection. If this is a used boat, you should also check for any equipment the PO may have spliced into the circuit. If he did a poor job of splicing (using barrel connectors or twist connectors), you may have a problem there. Many times I have seen a small change in load or wire movement start a chain reaction on weak or poor connections that resulted in the situation you describe. Just some things to check before you start shelling out the big bucks for a service tech.
there is a 30 amp fuse...
there is a 30 amp fuse... Thanks for your reply my fax for the wiring diagram is 562.566.9043
there is a 30 amp fuse... Thanks for your reply my fax for the wiring diagram is 562.566.9043
There certainly appears to be
a 30 amp fuse between the solenoid and starter in the diagram shown in the link below (item "7"). However, I have never been able to find it on my 1986 Yanmar 2GM20F. It also would seem that you would not be able to jumpstart your engine if this fuse were blown. I would suggest seeing if there is power at the solenoid and starter lugs. I would also check all the crimps, as suggested below. I had intermittent starting problems some time ago before I added a 12vdc relay to the solenoid. But before I did that, I checked all the crimps in the system. I was horrified. Most of the crimps on the main switch, the solenoid and engine ground were either loose or very poorly done, I presume at the factory.
a 30 amp fuse between the solenoid and starter in the diagram shown in the link below (item "7"). However, I have never been able to find it on my 1986 Yanmar 2GM20F. It also would seem that you would not be able to jumpstart your engine if this fuse were blown. I would suggest seeing if there is power at the solenoid and starter lugs. I would also check all the crimps, as suggested below. I had intermittent starting problems some time ago before I added a 12vdc relay to the solenoid. But before I did that, I checked all the crimps in the system. I was horrified. Most of the crimps on the main switch, the solenoid and engine ground were either loose or very poorly done, I presume at the factory.
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